First route on the new sector EAST Hlaðhamrar, first gully coming from the gully to access to it.

The 100th Route of Mulafjall

After a steep part follow a ledge and the we took the right branch that led us to steep part that we mixed; it’s possible that with more ice get fully close and cover

FF Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 24/01/2024

Easy gully on the extreme left (East) part of Hlaðhamrar

Going up the main gully to access to A1 the route is the gully and little higher then the ledge to access the other routes

FF Julian O’Neil and Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024

Bolted route that can be climbed full dry or with some ice on the lower part and the top but with dry moves in the middle.

Follows and open corner to get to a little roof part then a crack on the upper part , finishing with a tricky slab. Anchor on the edge of the wall (20m)

Possible to keep going all the way up the cliff on ice. Bolted anchor on the top 40m from ground

between Falki A8 and Lundi A9. Red line in the topos

bolted by Matteo Meucci 2019

FF Matteo Meucci 03/12/2023

First gully right of Testofan or first left of Risandi,  marked as N0 in the topos

Easy snow climb until the last two pitches where you get some WI2 ice

Belay on top with sling around rocks

FF Óþekktur

(climbed by Elisabet, Halli and Matteo 21/01/2020)

Leið beint ofan við skógræktina í Hamrahlíð og liggur samsíða hluta af bröttu gönguleiðinni upp á Úlfarsfell.

Stuttir stallar, getur mögulega náð WI 3 ef hún er þunn og enginn snjór til staðar, oftast WI 2 en getur líka horfið á snjóþungum vetri.

FF: Óþekkt einhverntíman í fyrndinni.

Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Leið númer 3. á mynd.

Fyrsta augljósa leiðin á vinstri hönd ofan við leiðirnar “Aðrein” og “Hraðbraut til heljar”.

Byrjar á bröttum pillar sem er um 20-25 metrar upp á sillu. Við tekur svo 10-15 metra haft sem er örlítið til hægri, seinna haftið er auðveldara en tortryggt, hægt er að fara lengra til hægri fyrir meiri ís og betri tryggingar.

Í frumferðinni var leiðin klifruð í einni spönn og er þá um 50 metrar.

FF. Ottó Ingi Þórisson og Sigurður Tómas Þórisson – 4. febrúar 2024

Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Leið númer 2 á mynd.

Nokkuð vatnsmikill foss neðst í Stekkjagili. Fossinn er eflaust oft opin og því ekki í klifranlegum aðstæðum.

Í leiðarvísu um Haukadal í ársriti Ísalp frá 1998 stendur eftirfarandi um leiðina “Ef gengið er inn eftir botni gilsins kemur maður að opnum fossi sem kemur i veg fyrir frekari uppgöngu. Hægt er að fara fram hjá fossinum með þvi að klifra upp vinstri vegg gljúfursins i einni til tveimur spönnum.” Leiðin upp vinstri vegg gljúfursins er leiðin Aðrein.

Leiðin er eflaust 30 – 40 metrar.

FF. Ottó Ingi Þórisson og Sigurður Tómas Þórisson – 4. febrúar 2024

Einföld leið upp lækinn í Fúsagili. Aðkoma eftir hefðbundnu gönguleiðinni inn í Bæjarstaðarskóg, þaðan inn með Vestragili og brölt upp úr að Fúsagili. Nokkur höft upp að þriðju gráðu og slatti af léttara brölti. Lítið mál er svo að klára upp á topp Jökulfells með því að klífa skriðuna og nokkur stutt kletta/íshöft ofan Fúsadals. Nafn leiðarinnar kemur ekki til vegna formfagrar fótafærni frumfaranda,  heldur sökum tíðra óvæntra fótabaða sem tekin voru á leiðinni.

FF: Tryggvi Unnsteinsson – 10. mars 2023.

A big, beautiful and hard route with wild ice formations on the south facing cliffs which overlook Huldujökull.

The two crux pitches climb detached pillars and curtains, and were climbed on the right side during the first ascent.

Approach via Kötlujökull. The base of the route is approximately 5km from the glacier terminus, though navigating the terminal moraine of Kötlujökull and the lateral moraine which guards entry to Huldujökull can be time consuming.

P1: WI4 50m
P2: WI6 40m
P3: WI6 30m
P4: WI4 30m

FA: Rory Harrison and Jay Philip Borchard 09/02/24

This route is west of Svellgjá in the gully on the most western part of this cliff. Climb the chimney and then make some delicate moves to gain the easy ice. There are a handful of gear places available. Continue up the short gully. Climbed on the ísalp ice climbing festival 2024.

~40 meters in length

F.A Jay Borchard and Kjartan Tindur Gunnarsson 21.01.24

Route 1 in the overview picture.

85m WI4

The first pitch starts with 10-15 meters of WI4, but becomes WI3 after that. There is plenty of good ledges after the first wall of ice.  Climbers have therefore multiple options in how to divide this route into two pitches. We did it in a 50m and then a 35m (WI3) pitch. This route can be a good choice for climbers where one is looking for a slightly harder lead while the other is looking for a more comfortable climb, the former would lead the first pitch while the latter would take the second pitch. This way both parties would have fun at their respective level.

The blue line on the topo shows a variation for the second pitch which is probably a bit more challenging.

Descent

There is no descent gully in close proximity so rappelling down the route on V-threads is the recommended method.

First Ascent

This route has not been documented before so we give it a name and rating. The name, “Just Foreplay”, is considered descriptive because the route starts with exciting moves but nothing of significance happens after that. Climbed by Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson and Halldor Fannar 21st of January 2024.

No 7 on the picture

65Meters

FA:Selina Hube and Ignacio Livianos

Route B10c

This route is left of Gjörgæsla. It started with a short step leading to a corner with very little ice in it. From there the crux of the route was to step out of the corner and onto a free hanging curtain. Few tricky moves take you to a little rest before you finish to the top.

The route gets logged here with the disclaimer that someone might have climbed it back in the day. There can’t be that many unclimbed routes in Múlafjall anymore.

F.A. Bjartur Týr Ólafsson and Bergur Sigurðarson 10. December 2023

Sector B on the map. This is a continous 100m wide wall of ice that was therefore named “Digri” (Husky). You can read about the approach on the overview page for Hvalfjörður.

“Digri” is below a number of ponds and should therefore provide early season fun and stay that way for most of winter. Due to the proximity to the ocean it should rarely be too cold and the surf creates a cozy ambiance.

Routes are about 20 meters high and range from 3 to 4 depending on line chosen. A great place to practice and have fun.

FF. Ágúst Kristján Steinarrsson og Halldór Fannar  10th of December, 2023

C0A5

Fyrir ofan Bæjinn Ingunarstaðir ~20min aðkoma

Líkalega farin áður ef ekki

FF: Bjarki Guðjónsson, Kaspar Urbonas, Michele Gaeta 9.12.2023

Winter 2023 was unusually cold; it was the coldest winter in southwest Iceland for a hundred years. This created unique conditions in the canyon below Glymur and for the waterfall itself. On January 17th that year, an Icelander living in Italy and an Italian living in Iceland ventured into the canyon with a mission to climb any of the established sought-after routes in this magnificent setting. However, due to the unique conditions and the old pencil-drawn topos on isalp.is being extremely confusing, they ended up climbing a new route. During the climb they thought they might be on Sacrifice (WI5+) or a variation of Draumaleiðin (WI5+) but it turned out to be neither. 

It became apparent that this section of Glymur hadn’t been climbed before. Watching  old videos and pictures the reason was also apparent – that section was never frozen. Instead, it was a booming waterfall with ice on both sides. Sacrifice is to the left of this flow while Draumaleiðin is on the right side, and even further right – since it goes up the canyon wall on the right and climbers will top out on the south side of the canyon.

For the first half the new route goes up towards the jaws of Glymur – where the flow is strongest. This part contained a full pitch of overhanging cauliflower ice formations with tricky protection. It was full commitment climbing requiring ice climbing in all three dimensions. In keeping with the mouth analogy the ice formations resembled the crooked teeth of an enormous giant. For the second half the waterfall was still partially open so the route veers to the right of the main flow to avoid the spray. In Icelandic the name is “Gin Glyms”, since gin means open mouth in Icelandic and alliteration is cherished by the natives. Gin & tonic may also have played a part in the naming.

Continue reading →

Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

5.1/5.2

40 m

Auðveldasta leiðin upp á lítinn tind sem kúrir í norðurenda Bolakletts.  Ekki er víst hvort tindurinn beri nafn, en nafn fannst hins vegar ekki í fljótu bragði við leit á veraldarvefnum. Þ.a.l. gefum við tindinum tímabundið nafnið Smérgeirastrípur, í samræmi við all undarleg staðarnöfn í kring, og borgfirskar örnefnahefðir. Ef einhver þekkir til nafns tindsins má endilega koma því áfram til okkar og við skiftum nafninu hér út.

Um 0.5-1 tíma gangur er upp að tindinum upp skriðuna norðan fjallsins, þar til komið er að skorningi sem leiðir upp í söðulinn. Klöngrast er upp mjög auðveldan skorninginn upp í söðul, og þaðan er klifruð suð-austur hlið tindsins. Mjög auðvelt klifur, um 15-20 metrar frá söðli og upp á topp, en tryggingar nokkuð vandasamar og berg mjög laust á köflum. Engu að síður ágætasta ævintýri.

Sigið niður sömu leið, tvær 60 metra línur ná vel niður að skriðu aftur.

FF (?, engin ummerki um aðrar mannaferðir á toppnum): Sigurður Ý. Richter & Atli Már Hilmarsson, febrúar 2023