Næturvakt WI 4

Route next to Beta.

3 pitches with the possibility to traverse 50m and join Beta for the last pitch and reach the path that lead back to the Vatnajökull Visitor center in Skaftafell.

Approach 10-15 min from Visitor center.

1st pitch: narrow stripe of ice WI2

2nd Pitch: small step and then easy to reach the base of the column. we used trees for the belay on the right WI2

3rd Pitch: 10m of vertical pillar with hollow ice, then easy to reach a block of ice in the wood for the belay WI4

FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason, Matteo Meucci 16/3/2023 WI4 80m

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Skaftafelljokull
Type Ice Climbing

Serial Hunter WI 4

Single pitch route in a very cool canyon.

Approach: park the car by Glymur park and walk back to the gate of the summerhouses 100m before. Walk the road and take the right brach. next to the houses there are 2 option: or follow the canyon up to the waterfall or go on the left and then by the place, lower on the slope towards the route. If you stay on the right of the canyon going up then you need to go over the route, find a place to cross the stream and then lower and by the slope get into the canyon.

The top part of the route is visible from the road, so easy to check if in condition or not.


FA: Matteo Meucci and Kasper Solveigarson 16/01/2023   WI4 25m

Crag Glymsgil
Type Ice Climbing

Daylightful WI 5

Route next to Canada dry by the farm of Fit

Unfortunately we were just one day too late and the first pitch was almost gone but the rest of the route was in prime conditions.

We did 5 pitches up to WI5

Approach: park the car by the farm (ask permission to farmer) and the after going over the hill point straight to the route , about 15-20min.

Descent: we rappelled down with V-thread and a tree (4 rappel 70m ropes), another option is to get to the top and walk toward Seljalandfoss and then lower by the waterfall of Drifandi, similar to the routes on Paradisarheimt.

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jay Borchard 14/01/2023

Crag Eyjafjöll
Sector Paradísarheimt
Type Ice Climbing

Bonfire night WI 2

Single pitch route next to Skaftafellsjökull.

The route is the next of Shameless.

Approach: from the visitor center walk about 25′  towards Skaftafellsjökull. Reached the warning sign, turn left and rise up on the gully to reach the route.

Descent: rappel from trees . Might be that is possible to go up the slope and climb down the gully on the left.

FA: Bart Vaganee and Matteo Meucci 10/01/202360m slab WI2/+



Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Skaftafellsjökull
Type Ice Climbing

Polska Bjorguninn WI 3+

Grænafjall lies between Falljöll and Grænafjallsgljúfur in Öræfi.

We climbed one of the most north line (left facing the mountain), more lines are available.

The route start with a little pillar then some transfer pitches and then a short wall. Follows other 2 transfer pitches . We did 6 pitches in total.

Approach: just before the bridge of Falljökullkvisl turn left and follow the pist. better to go right at the first intersection to avoid a very steep bump to cross the little stream if you keep the main pist (straight at first crossing). After parking the car at the end, lower to the river bed on the right and follow, at the beginning along a quarry road but then leave it to follow again the river. Instead of going in Grænafjallsgljufur, go left and then take the gully of the route half way up on the valley. We actually reached the route by going slightly further and going up the ridge on the left of the gully and then traversing right to the route.

Descent: go left towards Falljöll crossing 2-3 streams and then lowering on the slopes

FA: Matteo Meucci, Brook Woodman, Bart Vaganee  8/01/2023 WI3/+

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Grænafjalsgljúfur
Type Ice Climbing

Mother Earth M 7+

Route on the right of Mind Power (D7), that follow an evident crack and then a shield on the top part.

Climbed with pre-placed gear (pinkpoint). There is a bolt at first  that can be use to belay Mind Power and then 2 bolts on the top as anchor.

FA Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 23/04/2021

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Leikfangaland
Type Mixed Climbing

New sector Búahellir in Búahamrar

Buahellir Drytooling Crag in Buahamrar (Esja) with 12 fully equipped routes.
Same for Tviburagill, Skakki Turnin and 55Gradur. From the road N1 after Esja, turn at the beginning of the road work in to “Skriða” then park next to the houses where the road make a 90deg turn. Walk along the quarry and then cross the fence by the metal stick (traces of path); then 2 options left or right, Blue (more straight, 20′ ) or red (by Tviburagill easier, 30′) in topos.
14 routes fully bolted with ring anchor on top. 95% of the holds for the axes are chipped and will be marked.
From the right: D4, D5, D5+, D6+, D7+/8, D8/8+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D8, D6+/7, D8+, D8
There are 3 anchors on the very top of the cliff from where it is possible to abseil to the anchors of the routes to set a top rope: there are a lot of loose rocks, DO NOT rappel if there are other people climbing. Clip all the bolts while rappelling to stay close to the rock.
Wear the helmet!
There are some fixed draws on the most overhanging part, PLEASE leave them in place.
The crag has still some loose rocks on the routes, watch out while climbing.
14 draws and 60m are enough.
Crag is climbable all year round and doesn’t need freezing temperatures.
Rock is good except the yellow lower band, the easy part, then it is very solid and good on the overhanging part.
Let us know if you make some First Ascent, we’ll update the grades.

Þórisgilfoss WI 3

First and main gully on the left of Brynjudalur after the forest.

Approach about 50min.

Possibilities of short line in the gully. To get to the route you need to cross a big block, we did on the right on the rocks but if enough ice is better on the left.

3 pitches

Descent by the slope on the left or the right.

FF: Bergur Sigurdarson and Matteo Meucci 12/02/2021

Crag Brynjudalur
Sector Inni Dalur G
Type Ice Climbing

Köngulóarmaðurinn (attempt) WI 6

Evident and difficult line.

We climbed only 3 pitches then we thought was impossible to continue because of lack of ice. So we consider an attempt.

We know that the route was already tried back in the days from Palli Sveinsson and Co.

We will update if will be completed

FF: Ópekkt

1st attempt : Palli Sveinsson 2 pitches

2nd attempt : Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 25/02/2020 3pitches

Crag Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Sector Stigárdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Hvannadalsdrottning WI 4

Where the river from Hvannadalur meet Virkisjokull.

Start on the top of the little moraine next to the river. Thin ice on the first pitch.

2 pitches

to descend is better to make a rappel to the right (uppvalley) and then traverse to reach the river.

FF: Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 27/02/2020

approach 1,45-2h from Falljokull regular parking lot


Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Virkisjökull
Type Ice Climbing