Single pitch at the end of the first gully on the left on the way in Bæjargill

50m WI4+

FA: Matteo Meucci, Ágúst Atli Atlason 19/3/23

Single pitch route in the first gully on the Hnúkur path from Sandfell.

End of the pitch is a possible pipe, we climbed on the left where was more solid.

Bring some cams or nuts for the belay on the top, rocks on the right.

WI4+ 60m

FA: Matteo Meucci and Ágúst Atli Atlason 20/3/23

Route C in the topo

Stream next to the path to Hvannadalshnjukur in Sandfell

WI2 100m

FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason, Matteo Meucci 17/3/23

route B in the topos

Easy line in a shelter cirque.

Route A in the topos

Approach from Sandfell car park in 20-25 min. In the view of the stream that meet the path at 350-400m, traverse the stream and reach the following gully. Return from the Hnúkur path.

2 pitches 100m WI3

FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason Matteo Meucci 17/3/23

Route next to Beta.

3 pitches with the possibility to traverse 50m and join Beta for the last pitch and reach the path that lead back to the Vatnajökull Visitor center in Skaftafell.

Approach 10-15 min from Visitor center.

1st pitch: narrow stripe of ice WI2

2nd Pitch: small step and then easy to reach the base of the column. we used trees for the belay on the right WI2

3rd Pitch: 10m of vertical pillar with hollow ice, then easy to reach a block of ice in the wood for the belay WI4

FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason, Matteo Meucci 16/3/2023 WI4 80m

Walk Virkisjökull until the second plateau and then reach the stream coming from Hvanndalur. Get off the glacier and start to walk up valley until the line.

2 Pitches long route with 3 options for the second, we choose the middle one.

FA: Andrea Fiocca and Matteo Meucci 23/02/2023 WI5 120m

Single pitch route in a very cool canyon.

Approach: park the car by Glymur park and walk back to the gate of the summerhouses 100m before. Walk the road and take the right brach. next to the houses there are 2 option: or follow the canyon up to the waterfall or go on the left and then by the place, lower on the slope towards the route. If you stay on the right of the canyon going up then you need to go over the route, find a place to cross the stream and then lower and by the slope get into the canyon.

The top part of the route is visible from the road, so easy to check if in condition or not.

FA: Matteo Meucci and Kasper Solveigarson 16/01/2023   WI4 25m

Route next to Canada dry by the farm of Fit

Unfortunately we were just one day too late and the first pitch was almost gone but the rest of the route was in prime conditions.

We did 5 pitches up to WI5

Approach: park the car by the farm (ask permission to farmer) and the after going over the hill point straight to the route , about 15-20min.

Descent: we rappelled down with V-thread and a tree (4 rappel 70m ropes), another option is to get to the top and walk toward Seljalandfoss and then lower by the waterfall of Drifandi, similar to the routes on Paradisarheimt.

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jay Borchard 14/01/2023

Route on the left of Blika

After the first pitch the route continue for a couple of pitches on easy terrain.

Descent: or rappel from trees (only first pitch) or walk out on the right and on steep terrain go back at the base

FA: Matteo Meucci, Íris Pedersen, Arni Stefán Haldorsen 11/01/2023 WI5

Single pitch route next to Skaftafellsjökull.

The route is the next of Shameless.

Approach: from the visitor center walk about 25′  towards Skaftafellsjökull. Reached the warning sign, turn left and rise up on the gully to reach the route.

Descent: rappel from trees . Might be that is possible to go up the slope and climb down the gully on the left.

FA: Bart Vaganee and Matteo Meucci 10/01/202360m slab WI2/+

Grænafjall lies between Falljöll and Grænafjallsgljúfur in Öræfi.

We climbed one of the most north line (left facing the mountain), more lines are available.

The route start with a little pillar then some transfer pitches and then a short wall. Follows other 2 transfer pitches . We did 6 pitches in total.

Approach: just before the bridge of Falljökullkvisl turn left and follow the pist. better to go right at the first intersection to avoid a very steep bump to cross the little stream if you keep the main pist (straight at first crossing). After parking the car at the end, lower to the river bed on the right and follow, at the beginning along a quarry road but then leave it to follow again the river. Instead of going in Grænafjallsgljufur, go left and then take the gully of the route half way up on the valley. We actually reached the route by going slightly further and going up the ridge on the left of the gully and then traversing right to the route.

Descent: go left towards Falljöll crossing 2-3 streams and then lowering on the slopes

FA: Matteo Meucci, Brook Woodman, Bart Vaganee  8/01/2023 WI3/+

Famous waterfall in the town of Kirkjubærklaustur.

Rarely form due to the high water discharge, can be climbed in 2-3 pitches depend on the conditions.

Descent by the regular path to Sönghellir through the wood.

FA: Emily Rose Óla Bridger and Sámuel  2017

2 spannir, WI4

FF: Dani Arnold & Martin Echser, 3/2/22

WI 4+

2 pitches

FA: Dani Arnold and Davide Guzzardi 3/2/22

Route on the right of Mind Power (D7), that follow an evident crack and then a shield on the top part.

Climbed with pre-placed gear (pinkpoint). There is a bolt at first  that can be use to belay Mind Power and then 2 bolts on the top as anchor.

FA Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 23/04/2021

First and main gully on the left of Brynjudalur after the forest.

Approach about 50min.

Possibilities of short line in the gully. To get to the route you need to cross a big block, we did on the right on the rocks but if enough ice is better on the left.

3 pitches

Descent by the slope on the left or the right.

FF: Bergur Sigurdarson and Matteo Meucci 12/02/2021

Evident and difficult line.

We climbed only 3 pitches then we thought was impossible to continue because of lack of ice. So we consider an attempt.

We know that the route was already tried back in the days from Palli Sveinsson and Co.

We will update if will be completed

FF: Ópekkt

1st attempt : Palli Sveinsson 2 pitches

2nd attempt : Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 25/02/2020 3pitches

Where the river from Hvannadalur meet Virkisjokull.

Start on the top of the little moraine next to the river. Thin ice on the first pitch.

2 pitches

to descend is better to make a rappel to the right (uppvalley) and then traverse to reach the river.

FF: Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 27/02/2020

approach 1,45-2h from Falljokull regular parking lot

After the second pitch of the route we went left because the pillar wasn’t connected.

First 20m on mix terrain with poor protection then a dihedral and then steep ice all the way.

One full pitch to get to the ledge, then 2 more to get out. first we went on the gully on the left and then we exit on route N8.

green line