N6 in the topos above route Hettusótt

At the end of the canyon there is another little waterfall

FF Bergur Sigurðarsson and Matteo Meucci   15m WI2 climbed on the 18 dec 2024

N8 in the topos, valley C third from the left on the way up. Hard to see at first

Nice pitch splitter in two by a sloppy part

FF Bergur Sigurdsson and Matteo Meucci 18 Dec 2024  25m WI3

N9 on the topos, valley D 4th from the left on the way up

Evident waterfall at the end of the valley that present straight ahead when you get to the place where they split in four.

FF Andrea Fiocca and Matteo Meucci 4 Dec 2024 30m WI3+

on the left of the waterfall there is a large wall with not distinct lines marked as N12 in the topos

Above the waterfall looks there is another step marked as N11 (not climbed)

N2 in the topos, valley A first valley on the left on the way up

Steep line on the left of Tórsótt. Rocks on the top for building and anchor

FF Matteo Meucci and Bergur Sigurdsson 18 Dec 2024

Route n18 in the topos (furthest to the right of the cliff)

Fully bolted route with top anchor on the edge before the slope (another anchor in on the top of the slope)

The route start in a dihedral then a little slab and then an overhanging dihedral again

FA Matteo Meucci 2/06/2023

Route on the right side of the sector on the slab that ends under the rock arch right of the waterfall.

FA Matteo Meucci and Prokop Teper 21/01/2024 40m WI4+

Fun sector on the right of Skálagil

Park same spot of Skálagil and then instead of going in to the gully keep walking on the main valley and slowly point up to the sector (on the way down we went straight down and then walked the flat but is it a swamp and need to be fully frozen ). Approach is 45′-60′

we climbed 6 lines but on the left there are few more; they are WI2-3 25m long and anchors on the top are tricky to find: mix of V-thread and rocks

FA Matteo Meucci and JulianO’Neil 20/01/2024  25m WI2-3

yellow WI2

red WI3

green WI3

blue WI3

black WI3

white WI2

Fun route at the end of the gully of Stóragil next to Erpstadir guest house Road582

we parked before entering a property with abandoned shelter and trucks and walked the left part of the gully (looking uphill) until was easy to go down to the river (after the narrow part and a evident icicle on the other side).

If the river is fully frozen is possible to go through since the beginning but half way there is a step in a narrow part.

The route is about 120m long with a first steep part

We walked the right side of the river on the way back (looking uphill)

FA Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 19/01/2024 120m WI3

Route next of Bags and Thoughts (red line)

Yellow line in the topos

start with some mix moves (2 cams green and purple BD, possible to use the yellow higher up) then a series of icicle with a little roof to cross. All the way to the top of the ice blob. V-thread to rappel

FF Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024 20m WI5 M6

First route on the new sector EAST Hlaðhamrar, first gully coming from the gully to access to it.

The 100th Route of Mulafjall

After a steep part follow a ledge and the we took the right branch that led us to steep part that we mixed; it’s possible that with more ice get fully close and cover

FF Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 24/01/2024

Easy gully on the extreme left (East) part of Hlaðhamrar

Going up the main gully to access to A1 the route is the gully and little higher then the ledge to access the other routes

FF Julian O’Neil and Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024

Bolted route that can be climbed full dry or with some ice on the lower part and the top but with dry moves in the middle.

Follows and open corner to get to a little roof part then a crack on the upper part , finishing with a tricky slab. Anchor on the edge of the wall (20m)

Possible to keep going all the way up the cliff on ice. Bolted anchor on the top 40m from ground

between Falki A8 and Lundi A9. Red line in the topos

bolted by Matteo Meucci 2019

FF Matteo Meucci 03/12/2023

First gully right of Testofan or first left of Risandi,  marked as N0 in the topos

Easy snow climb until the last two pitches where you get some WI2 ice

Belay on top with sling around rocks

FF Óþekktur

(climbed by Elisabet, Halli and Matteo 21/01/2020)

Climbers: Przemek Jezierski, Helgi Ragnar Jennson

AI2, WI3, M4 400m (?)

First 150-200m is an easy climb up a snowy couloir which is topped with an easy WI3 pitch of ice. After that continue scrambling up snow and omit ice fields and maybe more evident snowy line to go directly into a rocky section (pic 1) with a corner going right (easier when icy, couple of good cracks for both ice tools and protection). Disregard evident snowy couloir and continue up and right towards rock formations pointing up towards the sky (pic 2). Around the first column to your left follow a chimney (big crack for yellow cam – pic 3) and up towards a rib (watch out for dragging rope). Follow up a rib (pic 4) towards a connection with the snowy couloir – on your right a steep wall needing downclimbing – instead go up an easy rock/moss climb to arrive on top of the ridge. Follow the ridge towards the summit.

Single pitch at the end of the first gully on the left on the way in Bæjargill

50m WI4+

FA: Matteo Meucci, Ágúst Atli Atlason 19/3/23

Single pitch route in the first gully on the Hnúkur path from Sandfell.

End of the pitch is a possible pipe, we climbed on the left where was more solid.

Bring some cams or nuts for the belay on the top, rocks on the right.

WI4+ 60m

FA: Matteo Meucci and Ágúst Atli Atlason 20/3/23

Route C in the topo

Stream next to the path to Hvannadalshnjukur in Sandfell

WI2 100m

FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason, Matteo Meucci 17/3/23

route B in the topos

Easy line in a shelter cirque.

Route A in the topos

Approach from Sandfell car park in 20-25 min. In the view of the stream that meet the path at 350-400m, traverse the stream and reach the following gully. Return from the Hnúkur path.

2 pitches 100m WI3

FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason Matteo Meucci 17/3/23

Route next to Beta.

3 pitches with the possibility to traverse 50m and join Beta for the last pitch and reach the path that lead back to the Vatnajökull Visitor center in Skaftafell.

Approach 10-15 min from Visitor center.

1st pitch: narrow stripe of ice WI2

2nd Pitch: small step and then easy to reach the base of the column. we used trees for the belay on the right WI2

3rd Pitch: 10m of vertical pillar with hollow ice, then easy to reach a block of ice in the wood for the belay WI4

FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason, Matteo Meucci 16/3/2023 WI4 80m