The route is exactly in the corner between the 2 sides of the crag. Goes through an overhanging section at the beginning and then a more technical one on the second part. Late in the season the second part can get easier if there is ice.
Fully bolted, has an independent anchor that can be reached with a short rappel from the main one on top of the crag. Better to extend the last 2 bolts with some long sling 90-120 to protect a boulder problem and a tricky slab.
Park the car at Kirkjubol on Gemlufallsheidi on the south side of Onundafjordur. Cross the river on Galtardalur following the fence on the south side, pointing the north face of Kaldbakur. About 1h approach.
The slope get steeper and we roped up about 120m before the ice line at the bottom of a small cliff of rock.
P1-120m slope with some ice steps. Possible to split in 2 real pitches.
P2-40m WI5+ sustained wall of ice with a small ledge half way. Better to stop before the end of the ice because is followed by a long slope with snow.
P3-70m WI4 Some step of ice with one steep.
P4- 70m WI3 Some step of ice but the gully become easier the higher. we took the left branch but there is a right one as well. We stopped at this point because of timing
Possible to reach the summit, crossing the cornice, in about 150-200m. At that point better walk down by the valley of Galtadalur
Some easy steps and then a steeper wall at the end. Possible a similar line just few m to the right ending in the same place.
Approach: park a Seljaland and go back on the road, cross the bridge and along the field and then start to walk up valley. The regular approach from the Valagil path can lead to an unpassable river if not fully frozen.
On Friday the 8th November we are going to have a slideshow with Jeff Mercier.
The event is going to be in Klifurhusid, will start at h18.00 with some dry tooling then a little rest for dinner and then at h20 the pictures.
Jeff Mercier is a world class iceclimber, part of the generation that developed dry tooling and brought it up on the mountain. He is visiting icelandic glacier and before leaving is going to climb with us and then taking a slideshow.
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Í ár stefnir Ísalp aftur á klettaklifur í kringum Písa ásamt alpaklúbbi heimamanna þann 6. til 13. September.
Meðlimum Ísalp er að sjálfsögðu boðið í ferðina en áhugasamir geta sent umsókn í tölvupósti á firstname.lastname@example.org. Betra er að taka fram með umsókninni hvers konar klifri áhugi er fyrir (sportklifur, fjölspanna sport, fjölspanna dótaklifur o.þ.h.).
Route 64c. Left of route 64a Bekri. 240m in 4 pitches
P1: we took one of the right pillar (WI4+ 10m) and then 15m of mixt climbing then snow slope. Belay on a rock with sling and cams. there is an easier pillar on the left but then a longer traverse to the right. 55m
P2: long traverse on easy ledge and then straight the wall with some ice (WI4). Belay on a horizontal crack. 80m
P3: left of the belay, then a kind of ramp to the right (mixt) until the next wall (WI4). Belay on a rock and screws. 40m
P4: easy slope with some steps on ice until the top (WI2) 70m
FF: Matteo Meucci & Sigurður Ýmir Richter, 25. mars 2018