Þrengslifoss WI 4

Route G5 in the topos.

Evident waterfall at the end of the valley. 1h Approach

stay on the left of the valley going upstream and then close to the waterfall follow the river if frozen. Possible to follow the slopes on the left if no ice on the river.

We climbed on the right because was dry. Amazing environment.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021  40m WI3

Crag Brynjudalur
Sector Inni dalur G
Type Ice Climbing

Þrengslipillar WI 4

Route G3 in the picture.

Evident pillar by the end of the valley.

The route continue all the way up with several steps with snow slopes in between. At the second pitch we went right but it is possible to go left on a similar gully.

Approach about 50min, we stood on the left of the valley (going upstream ) after parking at Forest Service Hut.

FF: Bergur Sigurðarson and friend climbed the first pitch in Nov 2020

Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021 4 pitches

Crag Brynjudalur
Sector Inni Dalur G
Type Ice Climbing

Fjós WI 2

One of the first line in the canyon. (Blue in photo)

Nothing for build an anchor on top, we wrapped cordelette around a clump of ground.

Suggested approach is following the river bed.

FF Andrea Fiocca, Marco Porta and Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  35m  WI2

Crag Kjós
Sector Hækingsdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Far is never far enough WI 4+

Short but steep pillar in a bowl . (Red in the picture)

From the farm of Hækingsdalur keep the left (going up stream ) of the canyon and cross the 2 main river then lower to the main river and raise to the bowl.

Is it possible to walk along the main river but need to be frozen

FF Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  WI4+ 30m

Crag Kjós
Sector Hækingsdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Sturm und drang M 8

Route number 13

The route is exactly in the corner between the 2 sides of the crag. Goes through an overhanging section at the beginning and then a more technical one on the second part. Late in the season the second part can get easier if there is ice.

Fully bolted, has an independent anchor that can be reached with a short rappel from the main one on top of the crag. Better to extend the last 2 bolts with some long sling 90-120 to protect a boulder problem and a tricky slab.

FF: Matteo Meucci 25/11/2020

Crag Esja
Sector Buahamrar-Tvíburagil
Type Mixed Climbing

Dizziness of Pil(l)ar WI 5+

280m WI5+

FF: Matteo Meucci, Franco Del Guerra,  8. Feb 2020

Park the car at Kirkjubol on Gemlufallsheidi on the south side of Onundafjordur. Cross the river on Galtardalur following the fence on the south side, pointing the north face of Kaldbakur. About 1h approach.

The slope get steeper and we roped up about 120m before the ice line  at the bottom of a small cliff of rock.

P1-120m slope with some ice steps. Possible to split in 2 real pitches.

P2-40m WI5+ sustained wall of ice with a small ledge half way. Better to stop before the end of the ice because is followed by a long slope with snow.

P3-70m  WI4 Some step of ice with one steep.

P4- 70m WI3 Some step of ice but the gully become easier the higher. we took the left branch but there is a right one as well. We  stopped at this point because of timing

Possible to reach the summit, crossing the cornice, in about 150-200m. At that point better walk down by the valley of Galtadalur