Veðrastapi

Veðrastapi is a prominent rock in the mountains west of Hof in Öræfi. It is in altitude of 806 meters, rising 30-40 meter above its surrounding. It was first climbed in 22nd January 2000, by Helgi Borg Jóhannsson, Jason Paur and Einar R. Sigurðsson. It is unbelievable that no one has climbed it before since it looks quite good from the main road. I know of two previous attempts but at least one of that team turned back because the rock is very rotten and loose. Helgi Borg, who lead the successful climb graded it II, that is fairly easy climbing, but mentally hard because of there are almost no safe handholds.

FF: Helgi Borg, Jason Paur and Einar R. Sigurðsson 22.01 2000

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Hofsfjöll
Type Alpine

Bæjarlæksfoss WI 3

The line the climber is climbing

This is the main waterfall in Bæjargil in Kvísker. We parked the car at Stöðuvatn lake and walked across the ridge between the lake and the gorge Bæjargil, and descended down to the route. After the climb we could walk down a hiking trail down the cliffs east of the gorge.

The first pitch is 20 meter of nice WI 3. Then we had to walk around a corner in the gorge. Careful not to break through and fall into the stream. There was another 15 meter WI 3 wall there, and some easy steps higher up. We walked up from the gorge close to the small dam that collects water for the power station down at lake Stöðuvatn.

FF: Matthildur Unnur Þorsteinsdóttir og Einar Öræfingur

7/2 2009

Crag Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Sector Kvísker
Type Ice Climbing

Gasfróði WI 4

Route number 3. (green)

Grasfróði is just about 100 meters to the left from Fróðafoss and it only takes about 5 minutes to walk up to it from the car. (Straight up from the house Fróðasker in Hof). This is a 50 meter WI4 route first climbed by

FA: Einar Sigurðsson and Mikko Nikkinen on January 23rd 1998.

 

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Hof
Type Ice Climbing

Akureyri

Svæðið í kringum Akureyri hentar einstaklega vel til útivistar. Akureyringar hafa príðis góða aðstöðu til að kíkja á skíði, fjallahjól og fjallgöngur. Einnig hafa þeir sportklifursvæðið Munkaþverá og steina til að stunda grjótglímu hingað og þangað í námunda við bæinn.

Í Kjarnaklettum eru nokkrar gamlar dótaklifurleiðir.

Eitthvað hefur verið ísklifrað í kringum bæinn og þá helst í Kjarnaskógi en líka í Munkaþverárgilinu, innar en sportklifurleiðirnar að sjálfsögðu. Svo aðal sectorar Akureyrar eru:

Kjarnaskógur
Þrjú áberandi klettabelti  eru fyrir ofan tjaldsvæðið Hamra. Frá suðri til norðurs eru þetta Langiklettur, Arnarklettur og Krosklettur. Eitthvað er af dótaklifri í Arnarklettum, ber þar helst að nefna leiðina Indjánann sem hefur staðið til að bolta um einhvern tíma sökum þess hve illtryggjanleg hún er. Á veturna myndast ís á vissum stöðum í Langaklett sem heimamenn, sem og aðrir hafa nýtt til ís- og mixklifurs.

  1. Kaldi – M7
  2. Ónefnd – WI 4?
  3. Ónefnd – WI 3?

Glerárgljúfur
Langt og fjölbreytt gil. Mis djúpt en á nokkrum stöðum eru allt að 60m klettar. Mikilfenglegt og hrikalegt gjúlfur og mjög stutt frá bænum.

  1. Mellufær á Glerá – WI 5 

Smábátahöfnin
Lágir klettar við smábátahöfnina inni á Akureyri. Oft verða klettarnir að samfelldu ísþili og því verður erfiðara að greina á milli leiða. Þetta svæði hentar einstaklega vel til ísklifuræfinga og kennslu auk þess að vera mjög aðgengilegt fyrir skottúr eftir vinnu.

  1. Bryggjuball – WI 2/3
  2. Duggi dugg – WI 2/3
  3. Hálfaaldan – WI 2/3
  4. Rúmsjór – WI 2/3
  5. Trausti – WI 2/3
  6. Bryggjupollinn – WI 2

Munkaþverá
Innst í Munkaþverárgilinu, ofan við brúna myndast einhver ís á veggjunum yfir áni. Hér hefur lítillega verið mixklifrað í toprope.

Vaðlaheiði
Ein leið skráð eins og er, Tönnin. Líklega leynast fleiri leiðir á Vaðlaheiðinni

  1. Tönnin – WI 3+

Hrútskýring WI 4+

Leið númer 66b. á mynd

70m, tvær spannir, 110m ef snjóbrekku upp að hengju er bætt við.
Fyrsta spönn byrjar á nokkuð þægilegu klifri upp á litla snjósyllu, þaðan tekur við nokkuð bratt og samfellt klifur. Næsta spönn er aðeins strembnari en með ágætis hvíldum inn á milli.

Orð ársins 2016 er orðið hrútskýring. Orðið var valið í samkeppni sem Ríkisútvarpið, Stofnun Árna Magnússonar í íslenskum fræðum og Mímir – félag stúdenta í íslenskum fræðum stóðu fyrir. Úrslit keppninar voru  kynnt sama dag og leiðin var frumfarin.
Orðið hrútskýring er íslenskun á enska nýyrðinu mansplaining. Orðið lýsir því þegar að karlmaður útskýrir eitthvað fyrir kvennmanni á yfirlætisfullan eða lítilækkandi máta.
http://www.ruv.is/frett/ord-arsins-2016-hrutskyring?qt-sarpur_frontpage=3

FA: Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Bjartur Týr Ólafsson 6. jan 2017.

Crag Esja
Sector Hrútadalur
Type Ice Climbing

Hvítur refur WI 5

Route number  66a. in picture

110m, 3 pitches. First a comfortable WI4 up to a snowslope and a belay, then the WI 5- crux pitch, very thin pillar that probably doesn’t connect all the time and then a thicker pillar (not that thick). The last pitch is a WI 4 to a cornice.
On the approach the first accent team saw an artic fox running in the slopes, hence the name Hvítur refur, meaning white fox.
FA: Matteo Meucci and Lorenzo Mazzotta 06. jan 2017
Crag Esja
Sector Hrútadalur
Type Ice Climbing

Vinamissir

Green route in photo

The route follows “Beina brautin” (Red) and then takes a different gully closer to the top. Approach is about seven hours from Svínafellsjökull.

The name “Vinamissir” translates to “Lost friends”, dedicaded to friends that have been lost, one way or another.

FA: Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, Þorsteinn Cameron and Matteo Meucci
15-10-2016
WI3 180m D

Matteo on the approach slopes
Matteo on the approach slopes
Crag Öræfajökull
Sector Hvannadalshnjúkur
Type Alpine

Video

Chinese hoax M 6+

Route number B16.

Two pitches, first one around M 5 and the other one harder, around M 6/+.

The first pitch follows an obvious crack on the outside of a nose that sticks out, right next to the route Fimm í fötu (2) and the first two meters are the hardest. After about 20m of climbing you get to a ledge, where it is easy and straight forward to make a belay. The second pitch goes up to the right from the belay and heads for a very obvious rock pillar, that looks alarmingly loose. Surprisingly it did not move and there is a lot of stuff that’s going to fall down before that one. After that section you traverse over a slab, directly under the massive an obvious roof. At the end og the traverse, you get into a very wide crack in a very flared corner. This is the crux of the whole route, tricky axe and feet placements and hard to belay, best option for belay is if you brought along a size 5 camalot but 4 might work as well. After about 3m of this you get easyer climbing, better placements, but the corner is still flared and all movement is tricky, but easier than before. At the top you can make a good belay and also extend it to the top bolt of Fimm í fötu.

The route was first accented on trad onsight but the plan is to place some bolts in it. It had a lot of loose rock, but majority of it was thrown down, so it should be allright and free of the most obvious hazards.

The name is a reference to a debated newly elected president of America, that claims that climate change is just a hoax made by the Chinese. The first accent was done on the 30th of november 2016 in 3°C heat, with almost no ice on either side of the mountain, very unusual for the season. Even though the mixroute is dry, it is best to do it while frozen, it has a lot of moss that makes things easier if it is frozen.

 

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jónas G. Sigurðsson 30.11.2016

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Kötlugróf
Type Mix Climbing