Hrútskýring WI 4+

Leiðir

Leið númer 66b. á mynd

70m, tvær spannir, 110m ef snjóbrekku upp að hengju er bætt við.
Fyrsta spönn byrjar á nokkuð þægilegu klifri upp á litla snjósyllu, þaðan tekur við nokkuð bratt og samfellt klifur. Næsta spönn er aðeins strembnari en með ágætis hvíldum inn á milli.

Orð ársins 2016 er orðið hrútskýring. Orðið var valið í samkeppni sem Ríkisútvarpið, Stofnun Árna Magnússonar í íslenskum fræðum og Mímir – félag stúdenta í íslenskum fræðum stóðu fyrir. Úrslit keppninar voru  kynnt sama dag og leiðin var frumfarin.
Orðið hrútskýring er íslenskun á enska nýyrðinu mansplaining. Orðið lýsir því þegar að karlmaður útskýrir eitthvað fyrir kvennmanni á yfirlætisfullan eða lítilækkandi máta.
http://www.ruv.is/frett/ord-arsins-2016-hrutskyring?qt-sarpur_frontpage=3

FA: Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Bjartur Týr Ólafsson 6. jan 2017.

Crag Esja
Sector Hrútadalur
Type Ice Climbing

Hvítur refur WI 5

Leiðir

Route number  66a. in picture

110m, 3 pitches. First a comfortable WI4 up to a snowslope and a belay, then the WI 5- crux pitch, very thin pillar that probably doesn’t connect all the time and then a thicker pillar (not that thick). The last pitch is a WI 4 to a cornice.
On the approach the first accent team saw an artic fox running in the slopes, hence the name Hvítur refur, meaning white fox.
FA: Matteo Meucci and Lorenzo Mazzotta 06. jan 2017
Crag Esja
Sector Hrútadalur
Type Ice Climbing

Vinamissir

Leiðir

Green route in photo

The route follows “Beina brautin” (Red) and then takes a different gully closer to the top. Approach is about seven hours from Svínafellsjökull.

The name “Vinamissir” translates to “Lost friends”, dedicaded to friends that have been lost, one way or another.

FA: Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, Þorsteinn Cameron and Matteo Meucci
15-10-2016
WI3 180m D

Matteo on the approach slopes
Matteo on the approach slopes
Crag Öræfajökull
Sector Hvannadalshnjúkur
Type Alpine

Video

Chinese hoax M 6+

Leiðir

Route number B16.

Two pitches, first one around M 5 and the other one harder, around M 6/+.

The first pitch follows an obvious crack on the outside of a nose that sticks out, right next to the route Fimm í fötu (2) and the first two meters are the hardest. After about 20m of climbing you get to a ledge, where it is easy and straight forward to make a belay. The second pitch goes up to the right from the belay and heads for a very obvious rock pillar, that looks alarmingly loose. Surprisingly it did not move and there is a lot of stuff that’s going to fall down before that one. After that section you traverse over a slab, directly under the massive an obvious roof. At the end og the traverse, you get into a very wide crack in a very flared corner. This is the crux of the whole route, tricky axe and feet placements and hard to belay, best option for belay is if you brought along a size 5 camalot but 4 might work as well. After about 3m of this you get easyer climbing, better placements, but the corner is still flared and all movement is tricky, but easier than before. At the top you can make a good belay and also extend it to the top bolt of Fimm í fötu.

The route was first accented on trad onsight but the plan is to place some bolts in it. It had a lot of loose rock, but majority of it was thrown down, so it should be allright and free of the most obvious hazards.

The name is a reference to a debated newly elected president of America, that claims that climate change is just a hoax made by the Chinese. The first accent was done on the 30th of november 2016 in 3°C heat, with almost no ice on either side of the mountain, very unusual for the season. Even though the mixroute is dry, it is best to do it while frozen, it has a lot of moss that makes things easier if it is frozen.

 

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jónas G. Sigurðsson 30.11.2016

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Kötlugróf
Type Mix Climbing

WW3 WI 3

Leiðir

Route number A3

climbed for the first time (in a while?) shortly after the american presidential election

FA. is unknown but has most likely been climbed

If anyone has any info on climbing in this sector before 22.11.16, it would be appricieted to send info to the Icelandic alpineclub.

 

 

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Hlaðhamrar
Type Ice Climbing

Matteo’s 100 Challenge!

Fréttir

One of our members, Matteo Meucci has started his project, “Matteo’s 100 Challenge”. To finish the challenge he has to climb 100 winter routes, ice-, mix- or alpineclimbing and then he will finish off next summer by running 100 km ultra marathon

The climbing part has a few ground rules set by Matteo:
1. The route has to be new to him, nothing he has done before.
2. Each route only counts once, he can’t climb a route many times.
3. He’s going to do as many first accents if possible.

Matteo decided to do this challenge because he’s turning 40 at the start of 2017 and this is his way of hosting a birthday paty and to prove that even if he’s turning older it’s not holding him back from climbing, running and doing other physical activities

The Icelandic alpineclub supports Matteo in this project, along with other organizations and companies

An interview with Matteo can be found at Icelandic mountain guides webpage

During the winter you can check out the instagram hashtag #rockicerun to see the progress of the project

Hliðarspor WI 3

Leiðir

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Leið númer 37

100m- 1-2klst.

FF: Jón Geirsson og Snævarr Guðmundsson, 11. desember 1983.

Hliðargil með léttum 10 m ísfossi í upphafi.

 

Crag Hvalfjörður
Sector Eyrarfjall
Type Ice Climbing

Norðurgil

Leiðir

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Leið númer 36

Gráða 1

Einföld snjóleið og augljós. Vitað um uppgöngur frá apríl 1975.

Crag Hvalfjörður
Sector Eyrarfjall
Type Alpine

Viðbit WI 3

Leiðir

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Leið númer 35

Gráða 3-60m-1-2klst.

FF: Snævarr Guðmundsson og Árni Tryggvason, janúar 1989.

Snjógil með þremur íshöftum, er klifin í 2 spönnum.

Crag Hvalfjörður
Sector Reynivallaháls
Type Ice Climbing

Grámosinn glóir

Leiðir

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Leið númer 33

Gráða V -150m-3-5klst.

FF: Björn Vilhjálmsson, Snævarr Guðmundsson og Árni Tryggvason 1990

Ein af erfiðustu klifurleiðunum í Hvalfirði á sínum tíma. Blandað klifur. 5-6 spannir, tvær í klettum (V+ og V), eru lykilhluti leiðarinnar. Eftir það er rifinu fylgt upp ad nálinni og þaðan hrygg upp á brún fjallsins í 3 löngum spönnum. Laus í neðri hluta, en einhver alfallegasta leiðin í Hvalfirði.

Crag Hvalfjörður
Sector Reynivallaháls
Type Alpine

Örvar

Leiðir

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Leið númer 32

150-200m. Gráða I

Áberandi og óslitið snjógil, tíðum notað til niðurferða.

Crag Hvalfjörður
Sector Reynivallaháls
Type Alpine

Bogi WI 3

Leiðir

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Leið númer 31

150m- 2-3klst.

FF: Snævarr Guðmundsson, 15. mars 1987.

Snjógil sem liggur í boga til hrægri. Í því eru 3 stutt íshöft.

Crag Hvalfjörður
Sector Reynivallaháls
Type Ice Climbing

Litli Risinn WI 3+

Leiðir

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Leið númer 29

60m- 1-2klst

FF: Björn Gíslason, Jón Geirsson og Snævarr Guðmundsson, 16. april 1983.

Augljós leið, klifin í frábærum aðstæðum á sínum tíma, þá III gráða. Veturinn 1987 var hún aftur á móti algerlega lóðrétt og þá ókleif, enda íslaus með öllu, aðeins laus snjór.

Crag Brynjudalur
Sector Flugugil
Type Ice Climbing

Snjórásin WI 3

Leiðir

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Leið númer 27

2 spannir – 2 klst.

FF: Jón Geirsson, Kristinn Rúnarsson, Snævarr Guðmundsson og Þorsteinn Guðjónsson, 11. janúar 1986.

Æði bratt snjóklifur upp grófina vinstra megin við Órion.

Crag Brynjudalur
Sector Flugugil
Type Ice Climbing

Riddarinn WI 3+

Leiðir

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Leið númer 26

FF: Jón Geirsson og Snævarr Guðmundsson, desember 1981.

Stuttir ísfossar, sá efri er erfiðari og endar í kvosinni þar sem Órion er. (Approachið að Óríon)

Crag Brynjudalur
Sector Flugugil
Type Ice Climbing