Rivers of Babylon WI 4

The route: 

Route number 4. 60 meters

Pitch 1: 30m WI3+. Very thin ice. Technical climb

Pitch 2: 30m WI4. Vertical sections, more physical than the first pitch. Nice comfortable belay

Descent in one long rappel

Location:

63.976024, -17.537842 https://maps.app.goo.gl/YTkGf2vdsGtFJ2JeA 

Approach: 

It’s possible to drive all the way in to the base of the wall. Then 30 minute scramble up the loose rocks.

FA: Uri Castells, Camille Verot and Florent Irion, December 20th 2023

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Lómagnúpur
Type Ice Climbing

Le Robinet WI 3+

Location:

63.818812, -18.068913, https://maps.app.goo.gl/khmKKwvZDtcwg2re8

Approach:

Park at Geirland and walk upstream towards the old power plant in Mörk. The line is found on the right side walls ( west face) among other climbable lines

The route:

The route is about 60m long. Starts with a 10m vertical section (WI3+) followed by a walking section. Then the route follows up on 30m of WI3 to the base of the last pillar. The final pillar is short but intense, 10m or less of vertical smooth ice, WI3++. On the first ascent we topped out above the pillar which was an issue to find a proper anchor, since the pillar is born on the wall itself and there was no ice on the top. The route was originally climbed in 3 pitches but it’s probably better climbed in just 2.

Crag Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Sector Mörk
Type Ice Climbing

Skaðafoss og uppúr

Skaðafoss er næsti foss ofan Svartafoss í Stóralæk. Skaðafoss sjálfur er einungis rúmlega 5 metra hár, en ef haldið er áfram upp Stóralæk alla leið að upptökum í Gemludal undir Kristínartindum, eru þónokkur höft allt að 10 metra há. Klifrarar verða að eiga það við sig hvort þessi nokkur höft af klifri séu göngunnar virði, enda eru um 3 km frá Skaðafossi að Gemludal ef gengið/brölt er eftir læknum alla leið upp úr.

Aðkoma: Gengið er upp vestanverða S3 gönguleiðina um Skaftafellsheiði, en rétt áður en stígurinn byrjar að hækka sig upp með Skerhól er beygt af S3 í austur á gömlu gönguleiðina um Miðheiði. Þaðan er gengið í stutta stund þar til komið er niður að Stóralæk, og er honum þá fylgt upp að Skaðafossi.

FF: Tryggvi Unnsteinsson – 15. mars 2023

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Skaftafellsheiði
Type Ice Climbing

State of Resistance M 8

Route n18 in the topos (furthest to the right of the cliff)

Fully bolted route with top anchor on the edge before the slope (another anchor in on the top of the slope)

The route start in a dihedral then a little slab and then an overhanging dihedral again

FA Matteo Meucci 2/06/2023

 

Crag Esja
Sector Buahamrar-Tvíburagil
Type Mixed Climbing

Byrjandi sector WI 3

Fun sector on the right of Skálagil

Park same spot of Skálagil and then instead of going in to the gully keep walking on the main valley and slowly point up to the sector (on the way down we went straight down and then walked the flat but is it a swamp and need to be fully frozen ). Approach is 45′-60′

we climbed 6 lines but on the left there are few more; they are WI2-3 25m long and anchors on the top are tricky to find: mix of V-thread and rocks

FA Matteo Meucci and JulianO’Neil 20/01/2024  25m WI2-3

yellow WI2

red WI3

green WI3

blue WI3

black WI3

white WI2

 

 

Crag Haukadalur
Sector Skálagil
Type Ice Climbing

Stóragil WI 3

Fun route at the end of the gully of Stóragil next to Erpstadir guest house Road582

we parked before entering a property with abandoned shelter and trucks and walked the left part of the gully (looking uphill) until was easy to go down to the river (after the narrow part and a evident icicle on the other side).

If the river is fully frozen is possible to go through since the beginning but half way there is a step in a narrow part.

The route is about 120m long with a first steep part

We walked the right side of the river on the way back (looking uphill)

FA Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 19/01/2024 120m WI3

Crag Brattabrekka
Sector Stóragil
Type Ice Climbing

Wet Dreams WI 4

Location:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/VaBcPk54Bow2z8tAA, 64.726862, -14.428976. The route can be found just left of “Gengið í svefni”.

Approach:

The approach takes about 40 minutes, the line can be seen from the road. There is several small openings by the road where is possible to park

 

The route:

The route was climbed in 4 pitches, but it’s possible to climb it in 2 very long pitches with a single comfortable belay after pitch 2. The first few short ice bumps can be walked around

Pitch 1: WI3+, 20m

Pitch 2: WI4, 25m

Pitch 3: WI4, 30m

Pitch 4: WI3+, 20m

Descend on rappel

 

FA on January 8th 2024 by Camille Verot and Uri Castells

Camille on the 3rd pitch

Crag Berufjörður
Sector Dys
Type Ice Climbing

Roaring Forties WI 5

Route next of Bags and Thoughts (red line)

Yellow line in the topos

start with some mix moves (2 cams green and purple BD, possible to use the yellow higher up) then a series of icicle with a little roof to cross. All the way to the top of the ice blob. V-thread to rappel

FF Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024 20m WI5 M6

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Hlaðhamrar
Type Ice Climbing

The 100th WI 3

First route on the new sector EAST Hlaðhamrar, first gully coming from the gully to access to it.

The 100th Route of Mulafjall

After a steep part follow a ledge and the we took the right branch that led us to steep part that we mixed; it’s possible that with more ice get fully close and cover

 

FF Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 24/01/2024

Crag Múlafjall
Sector EAST Hlaðhamrar
Type Ice Climbing

Bags and thoughts M 8

Bolted route that can be climbed full dry or with some ice on the lower part and the top but with dry moves in the middle.

Follows and open corner to get to a little roof part then a crack on the upper part , finishing with a tricky slab. Anchor on the edge of the wall (20m)

Possible to keep going all the way up the cliff on ice. Bolted anchor on the top 40m from ground

between Falki A8 and Lundi A9. Red line in the topos

bolted by Matteo Meucci 2019

FF Matteo Meucci 03/12/2023

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Hlaðhamrar
Type Mixed Climbing

Skautasvell WI 2

Leið beint ofan við skógræktina í Hamrahlíð og liggur samsíða hluta af bröttu gönguleiðinni upp á Úlfarsfell.

Stuttir stallar, getur mögulega náð WI 3 ef hún er þunn og enginn snjór til staðar, oftast WI 2 en getur líka horfið á snjóþungum vetri.

FF: Óþekkt einhverntíman í fyrndinni.

Crag Reykjavík
Sector Úlfarsfell
Type Ice Climbing

(Icelandic) 3. – Heljarslóð WI 5

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Leið númer 3. á mynd.

Fyrsta augljósa leiðin á vinstri hönd ofan við leiðirnar “Aðrein” og “Hraðbraut til heljar”.

Byrjar á bröttum pillar sem er um 20-25 metrar upp á sillu. Við tekur svo 10-15 metra haft sem er örlítið til hægri, seinna haftið er auðveldara en tortryggt, hægt er að fara lengra til hægri fyrir meiri ís og betri tryggingar.

Í frumferðinni var leiðin klifruð í einni spönn og er þá um 50 metrar.

FF. Ottó Ingi Þórisson og Sigurður Tómas Þórisson – 4. febrúar 2024

Crag Haukadalur
Sector Stekkjagil
Type Ice Climbing

(Icelandic) 2. – Hraðbraut til heljar WI 4

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Leið númer 2 á mynd.

Nokkuð vatnsmikill foss neðst í Stekkjagili. Fossinn er eflaust oft opin og því ekki í klifranlegum aðstæðum.

Í leiðarvísu um Haukadal í ársriti Ísalp frá 1998 stendur eftirfarandi um leiðina “Ef gengið er inn eftir botni gilsins kemur maður að opnum fossi sem kemur i veg fyrir frekari uppgöngu. Hægt er að fara fram hjá fossinum með þvi að klifra upp vinstri vegg gljúfursins i einni til tveimur spönnum.” Leiðin upp vinstri vegg gljúfursins er leiðin Aðrein.

Leiðin er eflaust 30 – 40 metrar.

FF. Ottó Ingi Þórisson og Sigurður Tómas Þórisson – 4. febrúar 2024

Crag Haukadalur
Sector Stekkjagil
Type Ice Climbing

Hreinir fætur WI 3

Einföld leið upp lækinn í Fúsagili. Aðkoma eftir hefðbundnu gönguleiðinni inn í Bæjarstaðarskóg, þaðan inn með Vestragili og brölt upp úr að Fúsagili. Nokkur höft upp að þriðju gráðu og slatti af léttara brölti. Lítið mál er svo að klára upp á topp Jökulfells með því að klífa skriðuna og nokkur stutt kletta/íshöft ofan Fúsadals. Nafn leiðarinnar kemur ekki til vegna formfagrar fótafærni frumfaranda,  heldur sökum tíðra óvæntra fótabaða sem tekin voru á leiðinni.

FF: Tryggvi Unnsteinsson – 10. mars 2023.

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Morsárdalur
Type Ice Climbing

First ste(e)p WI 3

Walked around the first 4m. The main pitch is about 30m with a flat part after the first section and a big flat top out. Good nice pitch to practice your first steeper section.

Location: about 5km east of Fosshotel Núpar. Between Kálfafell and Núpstaður/Lómagnúpur (63.9510632, -17.6201653)

Florent Irion and Mery González, 16th January 2023

 

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Lómagnúpur
Type Ice Climbing

Fallandi tár WI 6

A big, beautiful and hard route with wild ice formations on the south facing cliffs which overlook Huldujökull.

The two crux pitches climb detached pillars and curtains, and were climbed on the right side during the first ascent.

Approach via Kötlujökull. The base of the route is approximately 5km from the glacier terminus, though navigating the terminal moraine of Kötlujökull and the lateral moraine which guards entry to Huldujökull can be time consuming.

P1: WI4 50m
P2: WI6 40m
P3: WI6 30m
P4: WI4 30m

FA: Rory Harrison and Jay Philip Borchard 09/02/24

Crag Vík í Mýrdal
Sector Huldujökull
Type Ice Climbing