State of Resistance M 8

Route n18 in the topos (furthest to the right of the cliff)

Fully bolted route with top anchor on the edge before the slope (another anchor in on the top of the slope)

The route start in a dihedral then a little slab and then an overhanging dihedral again

FA Matteo Meucci 2/06/2023

Klifursvæði Esja
Svæði Buahamrar-Tvíburagil
Tegund Mixed Climbing

Byrjandi sector WI 3

Fun sector on the right of Skálagil

Park same spot of Skálagil and then instead of going in to the gully keep walking on the main valley and slowly point up to the sector (on the way down we went straight down and then walked the flat but is it a swamp and need to be fully frozen ). Approach is 45′-60′

we climbed 6 lines but on the left there are few more; they are WI2-3 25m long and anchors on the top are tricky to find: mix of V-thread and rocks

FA Matteo Meucci and JulianO’Neil 20/01/2024  25m WI2-3

yellow WI2

red WI3

green WI3

blue WI3

black WI3

white WI2



Klifursvæði Haukadalur
Svæði Skálagil
Tegund Ice Climbing

Stóragil WI 3

Fun route at the end of the gully of Stóragil next to Erpstadir guest house Road582

we parked before entering a property with abandoned shelter and trucks and walked the left part of the gully (looking uphill),until was easy to go down to the river (after the narrow part and a evident icicle on the other side).

If the river is fully frozen is possible to go through since the beginning but half way there is a step in a narrow part.

The route is about 120m long with a first steep part

We walked the right side of the river on the way back (looking uphill)

FA Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 19/01/2024 120m WI3




Klifursvæði Brattabrekka
Svæði Stóragil
Tegund Ice Climbing

Roaring forties WI 5

Route next of Bags and Thoughts

Yellow line in the topos

start with some mix moves (2 cams green and purple BD, possible to use the yellow higher up) then a series of icicle with a little roof to cross. All the way to the top of the ice blob. V-thread to rappel

FF Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024 20m WI5 M6

Klifursvæði Múlafjall
Svæði Hlaðhamrar
Tegund Ice Climbing

The 100th WI 3

First route on the new sector EAST Hlaðhamrar, first gully coming from the gully to access to it.

The 100th Route of Mulafjall

After a steep part follow a ledge and the we took the right branch that led us to steep part that we mixed; it’s possible that with more ice get fully close and cover


FF Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 24/01/2024

Klifursvæði Múlafjall
Svæði EAST Hlaðhamrar
Tegund Ice Climbing

Bags and thoughts M 8

Bolted route that can be climbed full dry or with some ice on the lower part and the top but with dry moves in the middle.

Follows and open corner to get to a little roof part then a crack on the upper part , finishing with a tricky slab. Anchor on the edge of the wall (20m)

Possible to keep going all the way up the cliff on ice. Bolted anchor on the top 40m from ground

between Falki A8 and Lundi A9. Red line in the topos

bolted by Matteo Meucci 2019

FF Matteo Meucci 03/12/2023

Klifursvæði Múlafjall
Svæði Hlaðhamrar
Tegund Mixed Climbing

Byrjandi WI 2

First gully right of Testofan or first left of Risandi,  marked as N0 in the topos

Easy snow climb until the last two pitches where you get some WI2 ice

Belay on top with sling around rocks


FF Óþekktur

(climbed by Elisabet, Halli and Matteo 21/01/2020)

Klifursvæði Múlafjall
Svæði Leikfangaland
Tegund Ice Climbing

Saie biezta WI 3

Climbers: Przemek Jezierski, Helgi Ragnar Jennson

AI2, WI3, M4 400m (?)

First 150-200m is an easy climb up a snowy couloir which is topped with an easy WI3 pitch of ice. After that continue scrambling up snow and omit ice fields and maybe more evident snowy line to go directly into a rocky section (pic 1) with a corner going right (easier when icy, couple of good cracks for both ice tools and protection). Disregard evident snowy couloir and continue up and right towards rock formations pointing up towards the sky (pic 2). Around the first column to your left follow a chimney (big crack for yellow cam – pic 3) and up towards a rib (watch out for dragging rope). Follow up a rib (pic 4) towards a connection with the snowy couloir – on your right a steep wall needing downclimbing – instead go up an easy rock/moss climb to arrive on top of the ridge. Follow the ridge towards the summit.

Klifursvæði Tröllaskagi
Svæði Búrfellshyrna
Tegund Ice Climbing

Cascade de l’EMHM WI 4+

    Team : Cédric Rabinand, Valentin Palardy et Jacques olivier Marie.
Date : 06/03/2023
Name : Cascade de l’EMHM (École militaire de haute montagne)
Grade : WI4+
Length : 70m
Description : you saw the icefall from the road just a the left of „exciting trousers“ in Hraundrangi sector. The icefall is pretty big and large and climbable with 2 pitch. First one of 30 as 40m with a belay on the right. Second one of 15-25m with a belay on the edge of the icefall (better ice) or with a third pitch by joining the rock (Need to build it).
Abseil with one rappel of 60m from the edge.
The icefall can be more difficult if you take steep ice.
Klifursvæði Hörgárdalur
Svæði Hraundrangi
Tegund Ice Climbing

Næturvakt WI 4

Route next to Beta.

3 pitches with the possibility to traverse 50m and join Beta for the last pitch and reach the path that lead back to the Vatnajökull Visitor center in Skaftafell.

Approach 10-15 min from Visitor center.

1st pitch: narrow stripe of ice WI2

2nd Pitch: small step and then easy to reach the base of the column. we used trees for the belay on the right WI2

3rd Pitch: 10m of vertical pillar with hollow ice, then easy to reach a block of ice in the wood for the belay WI4


FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason, Matteo Meucci 16/3/2023 WI4 80m

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Vestur
Svæði Skaftafellsjökull
Tegund Ice Climbing

Serial Hunter WI 4

Single pitch route in a very cool canyon.

Approach: park the car by Glymur park and walk back to the gate of the summerhouses 100m before. Walk the road and take the right brach. next to the houses there are 2 option: or follow the canyon up to the waterfall or go on the left and then by the place, lower on the slope towards the route. If you stay on the right of the canyon going up then you need to go over the route, find a place to cross the stream and then lower and by the slope get into the canyon.

The top part of the route is visible from the road, so easy to check if in condition or not.


FA: Matteo Meucci and Kasper Solveigarson 16/01/2023   WI4 25m

Klifursvæði Glymsgil
Tegund Ice Climbing

Daylightful WI 5

Route next to Canada dry (red line) by the farm of Fit. Route in green

Unfortunately we were just one day too late and the first pitch was almost gone but the rest of the route was in prime conditions.

We did 5 pitches up to WI5

Approach: park the car by the farm (ask permission to farmer) and the after going over the hill point straight to the route , about 15-20min.

Descent: we rappelled down with V-thread and a tree (4 rappel 70m ropes), another option is to get to the top and walk toward Seljalandfoss and then lower by the waterfall of Drifandi, similar to the routes on Paradisarheimt.

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jay Borchard 14/01/2023

Klifursvæði Eyjafjöll
Svæði Paradísarheimt
Tegund Ice Climbing

Gesturinn WI 5

Route on the left of Blika

After the first pitch the route continue for a couple of pitches on easy terrain.

Descent: or rappel from trees (only first pitch) or walk out on the right and on steep terrain go back at the base

FA: Matteo Meucci, Íris Pedersen, Arni Stefán Haldorsen 11/01/2023 WI5

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Vestur
Svæði Svinafell
Tegund Ice Climbing