Park same spot of Skálagil and then instead of going in to the gully keep walking on the main valley and slowly point up to the sector (on the way down we went straight down and then walked the flat but is it a swamp and need to be fully frozen ). Approach is 45′-60′
we climbed 6 lines but on the left there are few more; they are WI2-3 25m long and anchors on the top are tricky to find: mix of V-thread and rocks
FA Matteo Meucci and JulianO’Neil 20/01/2024 25m WI2-3
Fun route at the end of the gully of Stóragil next to Erpstadir guest house Road582
we parked before entering a property with abandoned shelter and trucks and walked the left part of the gully (looking uphill),until was easy to go down to the river (after the narrow part and a evident icicle on the other side).
If the river is fully frozen is possible to go through since the beginning but half way there is a step in a narrow part.
The route is about 120m long with a first steep part
We walked the right side of the river on the way back (looking uphill)
FA Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 19/01/2024 120m WI3
start with some mix moves (2 cams green and purple BD, possible to use the yellow higher up) then a series of icicle with a little roof to cross. All the way to the top of the ice blob. V-thread to rappel
First 150-200m is an easy climb up a snowy couloir which is topped with an easy WI3 pitch of ice. After that continue scrambling up snow and omit ice fields and maybe more evident snowy line to go directly into a rocky section (pic 1) with a corner going right (easier when icy, couple of good cracks for both ice tools and protection). Disregard evident snowy couloir and continue up and right towards rock formations pointing up towards the sky (pic 2). Around the first column to your left follow a chimney (big crack for yellow cam – pic 3) and up towards a rib (watch out for dragging rope). Follow up a rib (pic 4) towards a connection with the snowy couloir – on your right a steep wall needing downclimbing – instead go up an easy rock/moss climb to arrive on top of the ridge. Follow the ridge towards the summit.
Team : Cédric Rabinand, Valentin Palardy et Jacques olivier Marie.
Date : 06/03/2023
Name : Cascade de l’EMHM (École militaire de haute montagne)
Grade : WI4+
Length : 70m
Description : you saw the icefall from the road just a the left of „exciting trousers“ in Hraundrangi sector. The icefall is pretty big and large and climbable with 2 pitch. First one of 30 as 40m with a belay on the right. Second one of 15-25m with a belay on the edge of the icefall (better ice) or with a third pitch by joining the rock (Need to build it).
Abseil with one rappel of 60m from the edge.
The icefall can be more difficult if you take steep ice.
Approach: park the car by Glymur park and walk back to the gate of the summerhouses 100m before. Walk the road and take the right brach. next to the houses there are 2 option: or follow the canyon up to the waterfall or go on the left and then by the place, lower on the slope towards the route. If you stay on the right of the canyon going up then you need to go over the route, find a place to cross the stream and then lower and by the slope get into the canyon.
The top part of the route is visible from the road, so easy to check if in condition or not.
FA: Matteo Meucci and Kasper Solveigarson 16/01/2023 WI4 25m
Route next to Canada dry (red line) by the farm of Fit. Route in green
Unfortunately we were just one day too late and the first pitch was almost gone but the rest of the route was in prime conditions.
We did 5 pitches up to WI5
Approach: park the car by the farm (ask permission to farmer) and the after going over the hill point straight to the route , about 15-20min.
Descent: we rappelled down with V-thread and a tree (4 rappel 70m ropes), another option is to get to the top and walk toward Seljalandfoss and then lower by the waterfall of Drifandi, similar to the routes on Paradisarheimt.