Vondagil Hægri WI 3+

There are a number of interesting gullies and ‘gils’ on the North side of Hvammsheiði accessed from Laxárdalur. The route climbs through the ravine forming the climbers right branch of Vondagil and up the face at it’s head, finishing on the high plateau of Hvammsheiði. The first section which is not visible in the photo consisted of soloing around 350m of WI1+ to WI2+ terrain. The pitched climbing starts a short distance above the obvious junction with the shorter line to the right.

WI3+ 275m. P1: WI3 30m, P2: WI3+ 55m, P3 WI2 60m, P4: WI3+ 55m, P5: WI3+ 55m, P6: M3? 20m.

Rich Bell and Przemek Pakulniewicz, 14/03/2023.

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Svæði LÓN
Tegund Ice Climbing

Saie biezta WI 3

Climbers: Przemek Jezierski, Helgi Ragnar Jennson

AI2, WI3, M4 400m (?)

First 150-200m is an easy climb up a snowy couloir which is topped with an easy WI3 pitch of ice. After that continue scrambling up snow and omit ice fields and maybe more evident snowy line to go directly into a rocky section (pic 1) with a corner going right (easier when icy, couple of good cracks for both ice tools and protection). Disregard evident snowy couloir and continue up and right towards rock formations pointing up towards the sky (pic 2). Around the first column to your left follow a chimney (big crack for yellow cam – pic 3) and up towards a rib (watch out for dragging rope). Follow up a rib (pic 4) towards a connection with the snowy couloir – on your right a steep wall needing downclimbing – instead go up an easy rock/moss climb to arrive on top of the ridge. Follow the ridge towards the summit.

Klifursvæði Tröllaskagi
Svæði Búrfellshyrna
Tegund Ice Climbing

Cascade de l’EMHM WI 4+

    Team : Cédric Rabinand, Valentin Palardy et Jacques olivier Marie.
Date : 06/03/2023
Name : Cascade de l’EMHM (École militaire de haute montagne)
Grade : WI4+
Length : 70m
Description : you saw the icefall from the road just a the left of „exciting trousers“ in Hraundrangi sector. The icefall is pretty big and large and climbable with 2 pitch. First one of 30 as 40m with a belay on the right. Second one of 15-25m with a belay on the edge of the icefall (better ice) or with a third pitch by joining the rock (Need to build it).
Abseil with one rappel of 60m from the edge.
The icefall can be more difficult if you take steep ice.
Klifursvæði Hörgárdalur
Svæði Hraundrangi
Tegund Ice Climbing

Næturvakt WI 4

Route next to Beta.

3 pitches with the possibility to traverse 50m and join Beta for the last pitch and reach the path that lead back to the Vatnajökull Visitor center in Skaftafell.

Approach 10-15 min from Visitor center.

1st pitch: narrow stripe of ice WI2

2nd Pitch: small step and then easy to reach the base of the column. we used trees for the belay on the right WI2

3rd Pitch: 10m of vertical pillar with hollow ice, then easy to reach a block of ice in the wood for the belay WI4


FA: Ágúst Atli Atlason, Matteo Meucci 16/3/2023 WI4 80m

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Vestur
Svæði Skaftafelljokull
Tegund Ice Climbing

Grasgeiri WI 3

Leið vinstra megin við Ýring sem myndast sjaldan og fer auðveldlega á kaf í snjó.

200+m af klifri, álíka löng og Ýringur.

Leiðin er að megninu til WI 2 en nokkur brattari höft ýta gráðunni upp í WI 3

FF: Rakel Ósk Snorradóttir & Grétar ca 2012