Þverá Highway 1 WI 3

Approach about 1h from the farm. Stay on the left of the river high on the slope and then when possible lower in the river and follow it until crossing the gully of „Far is never far enough“ at that point the river make a really sharp turn and is better to go up on the slope a little further on the left (we found a step on the river with an open pool impossible to cross) then lower on the river again after the ridge.

2 pitches. Belay on the top, or ice or some rocks.

Descent: follow the slope heading to the farm.

Yellow line on the topos, left line on the Y shape route.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 2/2/2021

Klifursvæði Kjós
Svæði Hækingsdalur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Sandbaggers WI 3

Evident gully on the right of Bara ef Mamma vissi.

2-3 pitches

Stay on the right of the river and head on the right up on the slope before descending to the river  coming from Inni-hvilft sector.

Possible to rappel down on Vthread or walking down the next gully on the right (route right), with little steps of ice.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 3/2/2021

Klifursvæði Bolaklettur
Svæði Innri-hvilft
Tegund Ice Climbing

Árdalsárfoss WI 3

Route number A15.

Enjoyable route that need long period of cold to fully form.

Follow the river Árdalsá on the left of the crag of Bolaklettur.

2 main pitches then more little steps until the end.

Possible to walk out at almost every pitch and steps , better on the right to reach the slope and the path to go back at the bottom of the valley.

FF: Óþekkt

 

Klifursvæði Bolaklettur
Svæði Innri-hvilft
Tegund Ice Climbing

Hvarfsgilsfoss WI 4

Route C3 in the topos

The route start with a wide pitch and the get in to a narrow gully that can be followed all the way up with some ice step on the way.

5 pitches 240m WI4

FF: Óþekkt

Descent : or rappel before getting in the gully or if top out then take evident gully on the right (climbing side).

Klifursvæði Bolaklettur
Svæði Brekkufjall
Tegund Ice Climbing

Hard is never hard enough WI 6

Route 6

Sustained climb with an overhanging section then only in the last meters become easy.

Rappel on V-thread

Access:

N1-very suggested to warm up on the route 7 and then if the river is frozen there is a 10m pillar to climb that lead to this route.

N2 -is to walk up the slope on the left (going upstream) of the gully until facing the route and then descend the easy slope to get to the route

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca 27/01/2021 WI6 50m

 

Klifursvæði Brynjudalur
Svæði Hestagil
Tegund Ice Climbing

Upprennandi Alpínisti WI 4

Route N7

First route that appear walking towards the gully of Hestagil, it is on the left side going upstream.

Approach about 40′ from Forest Office Hut.

Main obstacle can be to cross the river; we manage quite well by going upstream of the intersection coming from Hestagill.

Possible to rappel down or walk down a slope and then back at the base in the canyon.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca  27/01/2021 45m WI4

Klifursvæði Brynjudalur
Svæði Hestagil
Tegund Ice Climbing

Þrengslifoss WI 4

Route G5 in the topos.

Evident waterfall at the end of the valley. 1h Approach

stay on the left of the valley going upstream and then close to the waterfall follow the river if frozen. Possible to follow the slopes on the left if no ice on the river.

We climbed on the right because was dry. Amazing environment.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021  40m WI3

 

Klifursvæði Brynjudalur
Svæði Inni Dalur G
Tegund Ice Climbing

Þrengslipillar WI 4

Route G3 in the picture.

Evident pillar by the end of the valley.

The route continue all the way up with several steps with snow slopes in between. At the second pitch we went right but it is possible to go left on a similar gully.

Approach about 50min, we stood on the left of the valley (going upstream ) after parking at Forest Service Hut.

FF: Bergur Sigurðarson and friend climbed the first pitch in Nov 2020

Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021 4 pitches

Klifursvæði Brynjudalur
Svæði Inni Dalur G
Tegund Ice Climbing

Fjós WI 2

One of the first line in the canyon. (Blue in photo)

Nothing for build an anchor on top, we wrapped cordelette around a clump of ground.

Suggested approach is following the river bed.

FF Andrea Fiocca, Marco Porta and Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  35m  WI2

Klifursvæði Kjós
Svæði Hækingsdalur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Far is never far enough WI 4+

Short but steep pillar in a bowl . (Red in the picture)

From the farm of Hækingsdalur keep the left (going up stream ) of the canyon and cross the 2 main river then lower to the main river and raise to the bowl.

Is it possible to walk along the main river but need to be frozen

FF Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  WI4+ 30m

Klifursvæði Kjós
Svæði Hækingsdalur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Sturm und drang M 8

Route number 13

The route is exactly in the corner between the 2 sides of the crag. Goes through an overhanging section at the beginning and then a more technical one on the second part. Late in the season the second part can get easier if there is ice.

Fully bolted, has an independent anchor that can be reached with a short rappel from the main one on top of the crag. Better to extend the last 2 bolts with some long sling 90-120 to protect a boulder problem and a tricky slab.

Klifursvæði Esja
Svæði Tviburagill
Tegund Mixed Climbing