Serial Hunter WI 4

Single pitch route in a very cool canyon.

Approach: park the car by Glymur park and walk back to the gate of the summerhouses 100m before. Walk the road and take the right brach. next to the houses there are 2 option: or follow the canyon up to the waterfall or go on the left and then by the place, lower on the slope towards the route. If you stay on the right of the canyon going up then you need to go over the route, find a place to cross the stream and then lower and by the slope get into the canyon.

The top part of the route is visible from the road, so easy to check if in condition or not.

 

FA: Matteo Meucci and Kasper Solveigarson 16/01/2023   WI4 25m

Klifursvæði Glymsgil
Tegund Ice Climbing

Daylightful WI 5

Route next to Canada dry (red line) by the farm of Fit. Route in green

Unfortunately we were just one day too late and the first pitch was almost gone but the rest of the route was in prime conditions.

We did 5 pitches up to WI5

Approach: park the car by the farm (ask permission to farmer) and the after going over the hill point straight to the route , about 15-20min.

Descent: we rappelled down with V-thread and a tree (4 rappel 70m ropes), another option is to get to the top and walk toward Seljalandfoss and then lower by the waterfall of Drifandi, similar to the routes on Paradisarheimt.

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jay Borchard 14/01/2023

Klifursvæði Eyjafjöll
Svæði Paradísarheimt
Tegund Ice Climbing

Gesturinn WI 5

Route on the left of Blika

After the first pitch the route continue for a couple of pitches on easy terrain.

Descent: or rappel from trees (only first pitch) or walk out on the right and on steep terrain go back at the base

FA: Matteo Meucci, Íris Pedersen, Arni Stefán Haldorsen 11/01/2023 WI5

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Vestur
Svæði Svinafell
Tegund Ice Climbing

Bonfire night WI 2

Single pitch route next to Skaftafellsjökull.

The route is the next of Shameless.

Approach: from the visitor center walk about 25′  towards Skaftafellsjökull. Reached the warning sign, turn left and rise up on the gully to reach the route.

Descent: rappel from trees . Might be that is possible to go up the slope and climb down the gully on the left.

FA: Bart Vaganee and Matteo Meucci 10/01/2023 60m slab WI2/+

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Vestur
Svæði Skaftafellsjökull
Tegund Ice Climbing

Polska Bjorguninn WI 3+

Grænafjall lies between Falljöll and Grænafjallsgljúfur in Öræfi.

We climbed one of the most north line (left facing the mountain), more lines are available.

The route start with a little pillar then some transfer pitches and then a short wall. Follows other 2 transfer pitches . We did 6 pitches in total.

Approach: just before the bridge of Falljökullkvisl turn left and follow the pist. better to go right at the first intersection to avoid a very steep bump to cross the little stream if you keep the main pist (straight at first crossing). After parking the car at the end, lower to the river bed on the right and follow, at the beginning along a quarry road but then leave it to follow again the river. Instead of going in Grænafjallsgljufur, go left and then take the gully of the route half way up on the valley. We actually reached the route by going slightly further and going up the ridge on the left of the gully and then traversing right to the route.

Descent: go left towards Falljöll crossing 2-3 streams and then lowering on the slopes

FA: Matteo Meucci, Brook Woodman, Bart Vaganee  8/01/2023 WI3/+

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Vestur
Svæði Grænafjallsgljúfur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Mother Earth M 7+

Route on the right of Mind Power (D7), that follow an evident crack and then a shield on the top part.

Climbed with pre-placed gear (pinkpoint). There is a bolt at first  that can be use to belay Mind Power and then 2 bolts on the top as anchor.

FA Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 23/04/2021

Klifursvæði Múlafjall
Svæði Leikfangaland
Tegund Mixed Climbing

Nýtt undirsvæði, Búahellir í Búahömrum

Búahellir er nýtt þurrtólunarsvæði í Búahömrum í Esjunni. 12 fullboltaðar leiðir hafa verið settar upp.
Aðkoma:
Sama og fyrir Tvíburagil, Skakka turninn og 55. gráður N. Frá þjóðveginum er beygt inn við bæinn Skriðu og bílum lagt þar sem vegurinn tekur 90° beygju nálægt húsunum. Gengið er meðfram námunni og farið yfir girðinguna við járnstaurinn þar sem sést móta fyrir göngustíg. Þaðan eru tveir möguleikar á að komast á svæðið.
1. Bláa línan sem fer nokkuð beint upp, línu hefur verið komið fyrir á erfiðasta kaflanum, 20mín.
2. Rauða línan upp í gegnum Tvíburagil, gengið eftir toppinum og svo niður, 30mín.
Leiðir:
14 leiðir eru fullboltaðar með hringakkeri á toppnum. 95% af axarfestunum hafa verið boruð til og munu verða merkt.
Frá hægri eru gráðurnar um það bil: D4, D5, D5+, D6+, D7+/8, D8/8+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D8, D6+/7, D8+, D8
Það eru þrjú akkeri fyrir ofan brún þar sem er mögulegt að síga niður í leiðirnar og setja upp top-rope: það er mikið af lausum steinum, EKKI síga niður ef fólk er að klifra. Klippið í alla boltana meðan sigið er til að haldast upp við klettinn. Notið hjálm!
Föstum tvistum hefur verið komið fyrir í mest yfirhangandi hlutum veggsins, VINSAMLEGAST ekki taka þá.
Enn finnast lausir steinar í sumum leiðana, verið vakandi meðan klifrað er.
14 tvistar og 60m lína dugar.
Hægt er að klifra á svæðinu allt árið og þarfnast það ekki frosts.
Bergið er gott fyrir utan neðsta gulleita hlutann, léttasta hlutann af leiðunum og svo er restin mjög föst og góð í yfirhanginu.
Látið okkur vita ef þið náið að klifra einhverja af leiðunum svo að við getum uppfært gráðurnar.

Þórisgilfoss WI 3

First and main gully on the left of Brynjudalur after the forest.

Approach about 50min.

Possibilities of short line in the gully. To get to the route you need to cross a big block, we did on the right on the rocks but if enough ice is better on the left.

3 pitches

Descent by the slope on the left or the right.

FF: Bergur Sigurdarson and Matteo Meucci 12/02/2021

Klifursvæði Brynjudalur
Svæði Inni Dalur G
Tegund Ice Climbing

Köngulóarmaðurinn (attempt) WI 6

Evident and difficult line.

We climbed only 3 pitches then we thought was impossible to continue because of lack of ice. So we consider an attempt.

We know that the route was already tried back in the days from Palli Sveinsson and Co.

We will update if will be completed

FF: Ópekkt

1st attempt : Palli Sveinsson 2 pitches

2nd attempt : Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 25/02/2020 3pitches

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Svæði Stigárdalur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Hvannadalsdrottning WI 4

Where the river from Hvannadalur meet Virkisjokull.

Start on the top of the little moraine next to the river. Thin ice on the first pitch.

2 pitches

to descend is better to make a rappel to the right (uppvalley) and then traverse to reach the river.

FF: Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 27/02/2020

approach 1,45-2h from Falljokull regular parking lot

 

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Vestur
Svæði Virkisjökull
Tegund Ice Climbing

Hvalur 2 -afbrigði WI 5

After the second pitch of the route we went left because the pillar wasn’t connected.

First 20m on mix terrain with poor protection then a dihedral and then steep ice all the way.

One full pitch to get to the ledge, then 2 more to get out. first we went on the gully on the left and then we exit on route N8.

Green line

Klifursvæði Glymsgil
Tegund Ice Climbing

Þverá Highway 1 WI 3

Approach about 1h from the farm. Stay on the left of the river high on the slope and then when possible lower in the river and follow it until crossing the gully of „Far is never far enough“ at that point the river make a really sharp turn and is better to go up on the slope a little further on the left (we found a step on the river with an open pool impossible to cross) then lower on the river again after the ridge.

2 pitches. Belay on the top, or ice or some rocks.

Descent: follow the slope heading to the farm.

Yellow line on the topos, left line on the Y shape route.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 2/2/2021

Klifursvæði Kjós
Svæði Hækingsdalur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Sandbaggers WI 3

Evident gully on the right of Bara ef Mamma vissi.

2-3 pitches

Stay on the right of the river and head on the right up on the slope before descending to the river  coming from Inni-hvilft sector.

Possible to rappel down on Vthread or walking down the next gully on the right (route right), with little steps of ice.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 3/2/2021

Klifursvæði Bolaklettur
Svæði Innri-hvilft
Tegund Ice Climbing

Árdalsárfoss WI 3

Route number A15.

Enjoyable route that need long period of cold to fully form.

Follow the river Árdalsá on the left of the crag of Bolaklettur.

2 main pitches then more little steps until the end.

Possible to walk out at almost every pitch and steps , better on the right to reach the slope and the path to go back at the bottom of the valley.

FF: Óþekkt

 

Klifursvæði Bolaklettur
Svæði Innri-hvilft
Tegund Ice Climbing

Hvarfsgilsfoss WI 4

Route C3 in the topos

The route start with a wide pitch and the get in to a narrow gully that can be followed all the way up with some ice step on the way.

5 pitches 240m WI4

FF: Óþekkt

Descent : or rappel before getting in the gully or if top out then take evident gully on the right (climbing side).

Klifursvæði Bolaklettur
Svæði Brekkufjall
Tegund Ice Climbing