Captin Hook M 9+

Leið merkt inn sem A4 á mynd

Through the overhang south of A6. WI4 slab start, then 15-
20m overhanging bolted mixed climbing to a large icicle in
the cave (stance there). Then another 10-15m through the
overhang and onto the main curtain above.

Fyrst farin 27. febrúar 2007 Albert Leichtfried, Markus Bendler, WI 4, M9/+

Crag Kaldakinn
Sector Stekkjastaur
Type Mixed Climbing

Íste WI 5

Route number C3.

Three bolts in the starting overhang. So quite safe climbing up the icicle even if it doesn’t reach all the way down og doesn’t handle screws.

No matter that, the route is quite serious because the top part is also tricky.

Top anchor at the top and a single bolt in the rock a few meters higher, above Pabbaleiðin (C5=

Ca. 30m löng

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Testofan
Type Ice Climbing

Öræfajökull

Öræfajökull is the third part of the Öræfi area, along with the low land areas Öræfi, Vestur and Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit. The sectors of Öræfajökull are:

Þumall

Detailed description for the approach is included with the Classic route. Only two routes are known up to Þumall (the Thumb), but most likely it is possible to climb the peak in more ways.

Black line: Classic route
Red line: South of the flake

Miðfellstindur

The classical hiking route to Miðfellstindur is for the most part the same as to Þumall, but once you get onto Vatnajökull you spiral around Miðfellstindur an top from the northen side. Miðfellstindur has one alpine route that goes directly up the south face and one ice climb next to the hiking route

  1. SA veggur Miðfellstinds – WI 3 – 400m
  2. Jólatré –  WI 5 -180m

Skarðatindar

Approach is over Skaftafellsjökull, either from Hafrafell side or maybe from the Skaftafell side if the glacier doesn’t retreat much more.

 

Rauð lína: Austurveggur – TD+
Green line: Jökulélé – TD+
Hægri mynd:  End of the Line – TD+

Hrútfjallstindar

1. SV-hryggurinn upp á Vesturtind (like it’s usually done) – PD.
2. Smjörfingur – TD+, AI5.
A. SV-hryggurinn upp á Vesturtind (like in the first accent) – PD.
3. 10 norskar stelpur – TD, AI 4.
4. Orginallinn – PD, II+.
B. Orginallinn (with the ridge) – PD, II+.
4,5. Lucky Leif (blue) – WI 5+.
5. Scotsleið – TD.
6. Íshröngl – TD, WI 4/5.
7. Postulínsleiðin – TD, WI 5.
8. Stóragil – PD.

Hvannadalshnjúkur

Rauð lína – Beina brautin – D – WI 4
Græn lína – Vinamissir – WI 3
Gul lína – Vesturhlíð –
Appelsínugul lína – The italian job – D – WI 4
Ekki á mynd – Orginal austurveggur – D – WI 5

Heljargnípa

NA hryggur Heljargnípu

Mávabyggðir

Suðurhlíð Fingurbjargar

Esjufjöll

Vitað er um eina leið upp tindinn Snók.

Suðurhlíð og SA hryggur Snóks

Super Dupont WI 5

Frekari upplýsingar óskast. Betri mynd óskast einnig.

Frá Dalvík er keyrt inn Svarfaðadal. Hægt er að fara hvort sem er veg 805 eða 807. Þegar komið er inn dalinn er beygt til suðurs (vegur 807) inn Skíðadal.  Leiðin er beint ofan við bæinn Dæli (ysta bæ í dalnum). Fjallið Kerling (1114m) skilur að Svarfaðadal og Skíðadal.

Leiðin var fyrst farin af Jökli Bergmann og Ásmundi Ívarssyni árið 1994 og var fyrst endurtekin á gamlársdag 2008 af Sigurði Tómasi, Frey Inga og Jökli Bergmann

Crag Svarfaðardalur
Sector Skíðadalur
Type Ice Climbing

Kaldakinn

Allar upplýsingar og myndir eru fengnar úr leiðavísinum “Kaldakinn” eftir Sigurð Tómas Þórisson og þakkar Ísalp kærlega fyrir afnotin

The climbing

The first routes in Kaldakinn were established in the mid-90s, but the bulk was established during the Alpine Club´s ice climbing festivals in 2001 and 2007. The most famous route in the area is Stekkjastaur (A10), graded WI5/5+/6/6+ (depending on conditions). One of the most striking ice lines in the whole country and a must climb for any climber of that caliber and above. Several testpieces were established during an international celebrity visit at the 2007 ice festival. Professional ice climbers Albert Leichtfried and Markus Bendler climbed Captain Hook (M9/9+) and a handful of hard ice lines. Ines Papert and Audrey Gariepy esablished several WI5+ to WI6+ routes and did a monster 1000m linkup day with all routes WI5 or harder. The Kaldakinn area currently boast roughly 60 registered routes, ranging in difficulty from WI3-WI6 (and an M9/9+) and there are still a handful of unclimbed lines of varying difficulties. Most of the unclimbed lines are however either quite hard or do not form except in very good ice conditions. The lenght of the routes ranges from 20m to almost 200m and everything in between of course. Be wary of avalanche risk and of rocks falling from above, especially in sector C (“the trenches”), in particular during a thaw and as spring approaches (with the sun warming up the dark cliffs). In most cases, the easiest and safest descent is via a rappel on a V-thread at the top of the routes. It is possible to walk off above sector A, but you have to walk almost to Björg to reach the descent gully (and there can be avalanche risk on the slopes above A).

Season

Iceland in general is very unpredictable in terms of ice and weather conditions in the winter. The best chance of good quality ice is in January/February. February being a better choice due to longer days and more ice buildup (NB the days are very short in Dec/Jan). March can give good conditions as well with even longer days but the chances of a thaw are starting to turn as spring approaches.

The sectors

O. Björg

Fyrsti sectorinn á leiðinni út að sjó, er alveg við bæinn Björg.

O1. Konný – WI 4
O2. Hlöðver – WI 4+/5
O3. Heimasætan – WI 3

A. Stekkjastaur

A0. X-files – WI 4 / M 6 / WI 6
A1. Wish you were here – WI 6+
A2. Arctic pillar – WI 5+
A3. Sólhvörf – WI 4
A3,5. Stönt hrútur – WI 4
A4. Captin Hook WI 4 / M 9/9+
A5. Flowers and Puffins – WI 3+
A5,5. Salómon svarti – WI 4+/5
A6. Danska leiðin – WI 4+
A7.Swiming in Burning Soup – WI 5+
A8. Tangó kálfanna – WI 4+ 
A8,5. Veggfóður – WI 6 / M 6
A9. Ræsið – WI 3+
A10. Stekkjastaur – WI 5+
A11. Lost in Iceland – WI 5+
A12. Butter and Onions – WI 5+

B. Grind (Lust)

B1. Girnd – WI 5
B2. Sýnishornið – WI 5
B3. Græðgi – WI 5
B3,5. H&M – WI 5+
B4. Upprisa svínana – WI 4+
B5. Kostulegir postular – WI 4+
B5,5. Have no fear, eat Skyr – M7
B6. E300 – WI 5
B7. E222 – WI 5
B8. Sóðakjaftur – WI 5
B9. Öskubuska -WI 4

C. Rennurnar (The trenches)

C1. Gleymskan – WI 4
C2. Drífa – WI 5
C3. Frygð – WI 5
C4. Miðnæturhraðlestin – WI 4
C5. Flagan – WI 3
C6. Hlæjandi fýlar – WI 4
C7. Íssól – WI 4

D. The Gullies

D0. Heita kartaflan – WI 3
D0,5. Vörtusvínið – WI 3
D1. …og heilagur andi – WI 3+
D2. Faðir og sonur… – WI 3

E. Dramb (Pride)

E1. Meyjarhaftið – WI 4
E2. Mr. Freeze – WI 6
E3. Knúsumst um stund – WI 4+
E4. Blár dagur – WI 4
E5. Öfund – WI 5
E6. Leti – WI 5
E7. Reiði – WI 5
E8. Dramb – WI 5

F. Glassúr

F1. Limrusmiður – WI 4
F2. Í votri gröf – WI 4+
F2,5. Skotgrafarfótur – WI 4+
F2,6. Slefið – WI 5
F3. Maldon salt – WI 4
F4. Salt í sárin – WI 4
F5. Remúlaðisleikjó – WI 4+
F6. Skegg spámannsins – WI 4+
F7. Synir hafsins – WI 4+
F8. Glassúr – WI 4+
F9. Úr djúpinu – WI 5
F10. Við fjöruborðið – WI 5
F11. Sex on the beach – WI 5+
F12. Shooters – WI 4+
F13. Tower og Ágúll – WI 5