Route number D10.

Easy corner with a ledge mid way. Protected with trad gear.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Bjartur Týr Ólafsson May 2017, M 4, 30m

Route number D9

Nice arette in the beginning with keymoves mid way up. Final part is on a vertical wall and a thin crack. Traditional protection. This route was the 90th in Matteos 100 route mission (2017).

The route has been bolted in 2018 and added a bolt on the top anchor in 2024 (now 2 bolts but no rings for top rope).

FA: Matteo Meucci & Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, May 2017, M6, 30m

Route number D7b.

Drytooling route explored on top rope about 10 years ago (2013ish) from Ivar Finnbogason, Björgvinn Hilmarsson and Viðar Helgason.

Start with some moss hooks and then after a good rest follows a crack with marginal foot holds to get to a delicate traverse and finish on final cracks.

One bolt at the bottom for the belayer. Top anchor with 2 bolts with a big Mallon for the top rope or abseiling down. Easy accessible from Testofan.

FF Matteo Meucci 13/12/2024 on pink-point (pre placed gear)

Route number C12.

Starts in a crack and leads up to a tricky slab. Easy finnish.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Halldór Fannar, April 2017, M 4+ 20m

Route number C4.

Mixed (clean) variant of Íste. GHC led the route onsight and world famous Jeff Lowe followed. The route was at the time, the hardest mixed route in Iceland.

FA: Guðmundur Helgi Christiansen & Jeff Lowe, 11. February 1998

Route number C2.

The route is on the left side of the ridge by Íste. Starts in a corner (rock) rigth side and under an icicle, traverses up and to the left on an obvious bump on rock, there you can reach the icicle. Vertical ice from there and to the top.

FA: Guðmundur Tómasson & Páll Sveinsson, February 1997

Route number B2.

Left route in the “Trinity” in the most eastern part of Kötlugróf. Beautiful and popular routes.

FA: Unknown, WI 4+, 30m

Route number B4.

Right route in the “Trinity” in the most eastern part of Kötlugróf. Beautiful and popular routes.

FA: Unknown, WI 4+, 30m

Route number B6.

Bolted overhanging mix climbing route. Traverses left under a big roof – real piece for hard heads!. First bolted route in Múlafjall. The route was named after the drinks that were drunk during the climb. Upper part it hard to climb if there is no ice and you might have to use traditional protection above the bolts.

FA: Styrmir Steingríms, Jökull B & Guðmundur T, 1998-1999, M7 (4 bolts), 30-40m

Rebolted in 2020

Route number B8.

Icicle up from Drjúpandi. Climbed by Palli Sveins and one of the most famous ice climber of that time, Guy Lacalle.

FF: Guy Lacalle og Páll Sveinsso, 1996, WI 5

Route number B12.

The big waterfall on the right side of Ljótur piltur

FA: Unknown

Route number B18.

Popular route, left side in a big circ, a little bit east of Íste. Steep first part, often with a thin icicle mid way up.

FA: Unknown, WI 4-5, 35m

Route number B19.

Unrepeated route with hard mix climbing in the start. Middle of the Fjúkandi circ.

FA: Páll Sveinsson, Guðmundur H C. ~1996, M7

Route number B20.

Very nice route! Starts on a short but steep step, maybe 5m to a small snow slope/ledge. From there the later half is quite a bit longer and more sustained. First part can be tricky if there is not enough ice. Later half might also be WI 4+ in some conditions.

FA: Unknown, WI 4, 70m

Route number B21.

The name of the route translates to: “A good day to die”, if it was like that or not. Around the corner from Íste is an obvious roof and about 15m further to the east is a clear light groove in the rock that recently (1998) has collapsed. There is the route. It is obvious, follows the crack for the first 20m, into a small hole in loose rock and then straight up on a little bit of ice. It ends in a small roof with good holds and then to the top.

FA: Jökull B, Guðmundur T, Styrmir Steingríms, 24. October 1998, M6, 30m

Route number B22.

In an obvious icefree crack east of Íste. The route ends on ice.

FA: Páll Sveinsson & Helgi Borg, 7. February 1999, M5 20-30m

Route number A12.

Tight gully with a few mix moves.

FA: Matteo Meucci og Kristinn & Sigurjónsson, WI 3+, 30m

Route number A11.

Short vertical wall at the start but gets easier as you go higher.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Kristinn og Sigurjónsson, WI 4, 30m

Route number A10.

Nice arette with mixed climbing at the end.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Kristinn Sigurjónsson, February 2017, WI 3, 30m

Route number A9.

Nice line on a overhanging arete. Hard start leads up to an easy mid section and then to a steep final section.

FF: Bjartur Týr, Jón Gauti og Matteo, nóvember 2017, WI 4+, 35m