New sector Búahellir in Búahamrar

Buahellir Drytooling Crag in Buahamrar (Esja) with 12 fully equipped routes.
Access:
Same for Tviburagill, Skakki Turnin and 55Gradur. From the road N1 after Esja, turn at the beginning of the road work in to “Skriða” then park next to the houses where the road make a 90deg turn. Walk along the quarry and then cross the fence by the metal stick (traces of path); then 2 options left or right, Blue (more straight, 20′ ) or red (by Tviburagill easier, 30′) in topos.
Routes:
14 routes fully bolted with ring anchor on top. 95% of the holds for the axes are chipped and will be marked.
From the right: D4, D5, D5+, D6+, D7+/8, D8/8+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D8, D6+/7, D8+, D8
There are 3 anchors on the very top of the cliff from where it is possible to abseil to the anchors of the routes to set a top rope: there are a lot of loose rocks, DO NOT rappel if there are other people climbing. Clip all the bolts while rappelling to stay close to the rock.
Wear the helmet!
There are some fixed draws on the most overhanging part, PLEASE leave them in place.
The crag has still some loose rocks on the routes, watch out while climbing.
14 draws and 60m are enough.
Crag is climbable all year round and doesn’t need freezing temperatures.
Rock is good except the yellow lower band, the easy part, then it is very solid and good on the overhanging part.
Let us know if you make some First Ascent, we’ll update the grades.

Gleymdi þursinn WI 4+

Leið merkt sem 26a.

AD+, WI4+. 200M. – Gráðan segir ekki allt. Getur verið mjög tortryggð, geta verið mjög erfiðar og tæknilegar hreyfingar í stuttum ís/mix höftum
Ístryggingar og klettatryggingar nauðsynlegar
4-6 spannir – Var farið í 5 spönnum 2021.04.05
FF: Óþekkt, Páll Sveinsson og Ottó Ingi Þórisson fóru leiðina 2021.04.05 og gáfu henni nafn.

Fyrsta íslínan vestan megin við rifið.
Helstu erfiðleikarnir eru fyrstu 4-5 íshöftin. Flest eru þau stutt (undir 10m) en geta verið brött og tæknileg.
Leiðin sameinast leiðum nr. 24, 25, 26 (rifinu) og 27 og fylgir þeim upp 2-3 klettahöft upp á topp. Sá hluti getur verið tortryggður.

Crag Skarðsheiði
Sector Skessuhorn
Type Ice Climbing

Consolation WI 3

Above the remains of the historic power station in the Merkurá gorge on the True Left. The route went up the cascade to the left of the cave like feature at the bottom. Left again there is a steeper WI4 variation that looks good. Climbed in two shortish pitchs around WI3/3+. The top out is “mixed” and you have to hunt hard for a top anchor.

Rich Bell & Adam Watson, 03/02/2020.

Crag Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Sector Mörk / Merkurá
Type Ice Climbing

Selgil Af Hoffellsdalur WI 3+

The main ravine/gully system draining the North East flank of Hoffellstindur, through the major cliff bands starting just above the valley floor. Approximately 400m in length gaining 250m via a series of around eight “steps” of wildly varying character. From wide cascades, easy runnels, to narrow steep gully ice. The longest pitch was around 40m.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 25/01/2021.

Crag Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Sector Hoffellsdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Rauðárfoss WI 2

Situated in the amphitheater behind Systrastapi Rock when viewed from the highway. Access is easy – park near Kirkjubæjarstofa and follow the marked historic trail from the end of the 205 towards Systrastapi. We climbed the steeper righthand side which is closer to WI2+. This waterfall would make an ideal beginners lead.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 30/01/2021, one pitch of 50m+.

Crag Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Sector Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Type Ice Climbing