Evident and difficult line.

We climbed only 3 pitches then we thought was impossible to continue because of lack of ice. So we consider an attempt.

We know that the route was already tried back in the days from Palli Sveinsson and Co.

We will update if will be completed

FF: Ópekkt

1st attempt : Palli Sveinsson 2 pitches

2nd attempt : Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 25/02/2020 3pitches

Where the river from Hvannadalur meet Virkisjokull.

Start on the top of the little moraine next to the river. Thin ice on the first pitch.

2 pitches

to descend is better to make a rappel to the right (uppvalley) and then traverse to reach the river.

FF: Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 27/02/2020

approach 1,45-2h from Falljokull regular parking lot

After the second pitch of the route we went left because the pillar wasn’t connected.

First 20m on mix terrain with poor protection then a dihedral and then steep ice all the way.

One full pitch to get to the ledge, then 2 more to get out. first we went on the gully on the left and then we exit on route N8.

green line

Approach about 1h from the farm. Stay on the left of the river high on the slope and then when possible lower in the river and follow it until crossing the gully of “Far is never far enough” at that point the river make a really sharp turn and is better to go up on the slope a little further on the left (we found a step on the river with an open pool impossible to cross) then lower on the river again after the ridge.

2 pitches. Belay on the top, or ice or some rocks.

Descent: follow the slope heading to the farm.

Yellow line on the topos, left line on the Y shape route.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 2/2/2021

Amazing waterfall of 60m .

Approach is about 1h from the farm

Line in green in the topos

Possible to rappel down or walk out by the slope on the right

FF: Andrea Fiocca, Brook Woodman and Matteo Meucci  2/2/2021

Evident gully on the right of Bara ef Mamma vissi.

2-3 pitches

Stay on the right of the river and head on the right up on the slope before descending to the river  coming from Inni-hvilft sector.

Possible to rappel down on Vthread or walking down the next gully on the right (route right), with little steps of ice.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 3/2/2021

Route number A15.

Enjoyable route that need long period of cold to fully form.

Follow the river Árdalsá on the left of the crag of Bolaklettur.

2 main pitches then more little steps until the end.

Possible to walk out at almost every pitch and steps , better on the right to reach the slope and the path to go back at the bottom of the valley.

FF: Óþekkt

Leið N5

2-3 pitches depending on the slope conditions.

Rocks on top for belay. Rappel down on Vthread or walk down a slope and gully on the right of the line.

FF: Óþekkt

Leið 6

Easy start leads to a steep pillar. Bit pumpy. WI4

FA. Bjartur Týr og Garðar Hrafn

Route 5

Wide route with few variations. WI2-3

FA. Lýðskólinn á Flateyri

Route 4

Nice route. WI3.

FA. Lýðskólinn á Flateyri

Route 3

Short and easy. Steep start with an easier finish. WI3.

FA. Lýðskólinn á Flateyri

Route 2

Easy beginning leads to a steep finish. WI3+

FA. Lýðskólinn á Flateyri

Route C3 in the topos

The route start with a wide pitch and the get in to a narrow gully that can be followed all the way up with some ice step on the way.

5 pitches 240m WI4

FF: Óþekkt

Descent : or rappel before getting in the gully or if top out then take evident gully on the right (climbing side).

Leið í gilinu sem er á milli Búahamra og Vesturbrúna, er í Búahamra hliðinni.

Hægri leiðin á myndinni. Í frumferð var svo farið til hægri í toppinn.

Gilið er oft fullt af snjó og er þekkt skíðaleið þar niður.

WI 3, 60m, best að síga niður

FF: Rory Harrison og Rögnvaldur Finnbogason, 5. febrúar 2021

Located a short way up Krossárgljúfur where a small side creek drops down the True Right wall. The top third of the route can be seen from the highway. The first section is of high quality and very sustained until a good rest is reached on the large obvious ledge before the final steps.  One pitch, WI4+, 45m+.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 31/01/2021.

Route 6

Sustained climb with an overhanging section then only in the last meters become easy.

Rappel on V-thread

Access:

N1-very suggested to warm up on the route 7 and then if the river is frozen there is a 10m pillar to climb that lead to this route.

N2 -is to walk up the slope on the left (going upstream) of the gully until facing the route and then descend the easy slope to get to the route

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca 27/01/2021 WI6 50m

Route N7

First route that appear walking towards the gully of Hestagil, it is on the left side going upstream.

Approach about 40′ from Forest Office Hut.

Main obstacle can be to cross the river; we manage quite well by going upstream of the intersection coming from Hestagill.

Possible to rappel down or walk down a slope and then back at the base in the canyon.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca  27/01/2021 45m WI4

Route C0B5

Gully right of C0B4

FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m

Route C0B4

Easy line

FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m