Helskór Vésteins WI 4+

Hægra þilið af augljósu þiljunum tveim fyrir botni Garðshvilftar, leið 1.5.

Tvær spannir af skemmtilegu, jöfnu klifri í góðum ís. Nokkuð í fangið í fyrri hluta, slær af halla í seinni hluta og getur verið auðvelt að komast upp fyrir hengju yfir vinstri hluta þilsins. Annars er lítið mál að setja upp þræðingu undir hengjunni og síga niður í tveim sigum.

 

WI 4+, 80 m

Febrúar 2020,  Magnús Ólafur Magnússon & Sigurður Ý. Richter

Crag Dýrafjörður
Sector Garðshvilft
Type Ice Climbing

Fjós WI 2

One of the first line in the canyon. (Blue in photo)

Nothing for build an anchor on top, we wrapped cordelette around a clump of ground.

Suggested approach is following the river bed.

FF Andrea Fiocca, Marco Porta and Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  35m  WI2

Crag Kjós
Sector Hækingsdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Far is never far enough WI 4+

Short but steep pillar in a bowl . (Red in the picture)

From the farm of Hækingsdalur keep the left (going up stream ) of the canyon and cross the 2 main river then lower to the main river and raise to the bowl.

Is it possible to walk along the main river but need to be frozen

FF Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  WI4+ 30m

Crag Kjós
Sector Hækingsdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Sámur WI 3

Route number 2

East side of Rauðsgil about 1 km above the farm Rauðsgil, in a cirque below Laxfoss.

~40m 3. gráða.

The route is named after the dog at the farm Rauðsgil, he followed us up the canyon when the route was first climbed. We thought he would go back to the farm when we rappelled into the  canyon but he waited patiently until we  came back up.

FA. Bergur Einarsson, Matteo Meucci, Guðmundur Ísak Markússon & Andri Rafn Helgason 07.12.2013

Crag Borgarfjörður
Sector Rauðsgil
Type Ice Climbing

Sturm und drang M 8

Route number 13

The route is exactly in the corner between the 2 sides of the crag. Goes through an overhanging section at the beginning and then a more technical one on the second part. Late in the season the second part can get easier if there is ice.

Fully bolted, has an independent anchor that can be reached with a short rappel from the main one on top of the crag. Better to extend the last 2 bolts with some long sling 90-120 to protect a boulder problem and a tricky slab.

FF: Matteo Meucci 25/11/2020

Crag Esja
Sector Buahamrar-Tvíburagil
Type Mixed Climbing

(Icelandic) Ljósmyndakeppni ÍSALP 2020

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Ljósmyndakeppni Ísalp 2020

Að venju er komið að árlegri ljósmyndakeppni Íslenska alpaklúbbsins. Í boði eru flokkarnir Klifur, Skíði og Mannlíf á fjöllum. Dómnefnd kýs sigurvegara í hverjum flokki ásamt því að besta myndin mun prýða komandi ársrit klúbbsins.

Reglurnar eru eftirfarandi:

  • Keppandi þarf sjálfur að hafa tekið myndina
  • Keppandi þarf að vera meðlimur í klúbbnum
  • Myndir þurfa að vera teknar eftir síðustu ljósmyndakeppni (nóvember 2019)
  • Hver keppandi má senda 3 myndir að hámarki (mega fara allar í sama flokk eða skiptast á flokka)
  • Hverja mynd þarf að tilgreina í einn flokk
  • Stutt lýsing þarf að fylgja hverri mynd
  • Með þáttöku samþykkir keppandi að mynd getur birst í ársriti klúbbsins

Til að taka þátt skal senda myndir með tölvupósti á netfangið ljosmyndakeppni@isalp.is í síðasta lagi 15. nóvember 2020!

Hnjúkaþeyr

Blue line

Hnjúkaþeyr was first climbed 13th of October 2020. The idea was to follow the most direct line on the face as possible.

The approach was done on skis from Hnappavallaleið and took around five hours. Similar to the Italian Job the climbers traversed onto the face to avoid dropping too much height and safe some time. If the approach is done from Svínafellsjökull it’s well possible to follow Beina Brautin onto the face.

The climbers simul-climbed the lower section of the face and climbed one third grade pitch on a running belay leading them to the junction of Beina Brautin and Vinamissir. A waterfall around 100 meter long had formed there leading all the way to the top in two pitches.

Hnjúkaþeyr is the Icelandic word for Föhn winds which are particularly common in the area. Continue reading

Crag Öræfajökull
Sector Hvannadalshnjúkur
Type Alpine

Video