Matteo

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  • in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2019-2020 #69328
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    on March 4th with Bjartur and Pete went to Mulafjall, climbed Risandi right branch and then Fjukandi. Conditions are top in Mulafjall.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2019-2020 #69325
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    on the 25th feb me and Maurizio Tasca climbed a line in Stigardalur (Oraefi) without topping out. We are not going to give a name because is not completed lacking ice but to the point we reached was a WI6 for us.
    We know the line has been attempted from Palli before.
    In the topos is the line marked „Unclimbed“

    • This reply was modified 6 months, 2 weeks síðan by Matteo.
    Attachments:
    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2019-2020 #69211
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi all,
    on last Tuesday Me and Franco went in Mulafjall in the new „kaffistofan“ sector and added 3 easy lines.
    From the extreme right, the first 3 obvious lines:

    -Latte macchiato WI2+ 40m
    -Americano WI3 40m
    -Corretto WI3+/M4 40m

    The top belay is in the same spot with a providential rock (I’m mark it next time I go), nothing left.

    in reply to: Skráning á Ísklifurfestival 2020 #68794
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Me and Franco are coming, 2 nights and soup

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2019-2020 #68780
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Me and Bergur went in Flugugill today and did a couple of routes. Conditions are good, a bit of cross to clean on easier parts but the rest ok. Bit of snow in gullies.
    The lines are in green in the topos pics, and I would say WI3+/4 55m the left one and WI4+/5 40m the right.
    Brynjudalur looks good, Esja as well. Snow on approaches to be evaluated (avalanches?) in Eilifsdalur and Hrutadalur.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2019-2020 #68753
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi, yesterday with Asgeir Mar went to Mulafjall in a possibly new sector (not reported in the recent topos) west of Leikfangland. There is a parking spot just straight below.
    We named it „Kaffistofan“. Approach is slightly shorter then Testofan, 30′.
    On the left we climbed after a common pitch of 45m WI2:
    – the obvious gully „Ekkert Te“ WI3 40m
    – The main line „Afmaelid kaka“ WI4 30m

    on the right:
    – „Bara kaffi“ WI4 30m
    – „Ristretto“ WI4/M5 45m

    Potential for more lines.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2019-2020 #68737
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi all,
    Me Halli and Elizabet went to Mulafjall today. Conditions are good, quite a lot of ice (pabbaleid is a big icicle touching the ground). We climbed the gully WI2 left of Risandi (we saw a team climbing Risandi) and then to Testofan Overpid and Frumburdurinn.
    Orion looks good, Buahamrar looks good as well.

    in reply to: Iceland Winter Adventure #68351
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    I’m not experienced in crossing but here are my tips:
    – i would rather have skis (slightly wider than cross-country one) more than walking just to make easier.
    – Track is kind of ok, but of course depend how much you can do every day.I think in average you can do 25km, usually you need to sleep in the tent half way to huts.I know people take 9 days to get to Hella, maybe only 4 is a bit optimistic.
    – I think after Hrauneyiar can be that the snow pack is little or not present, so carry sledge on half of the south coast can be really painful (i don’t know if that is in the project, or you drop them in Hella) unless you have wheels to put underneath.
    Cheers,
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67626
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    I went to the west face of Kristinartindar today and climbed a new route on the right of Endurfundir, WI4 200m „Blunt spikes“. conditions are good in this place, hard snow on the approach in early morning.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67606
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    with Agust went to Mulafjall. Good conditions all the lines are pretty much in, quite a bit of ice. We did 4 lines on the right of B1 Duma Amma, all about WI3.
    Few days ago i did a drive in Hvalfjordur and Borgarnes, here is a quick report:

    Brynjudalur: looks good, even Yringur is in but the first part, Orion was looking ok from far.

    Eilifsdalur: all lines in conditions, maybe a bit of snow on the approach and on the easy one.

    Hrutadalur: looks good, snow on the approach

    Villingadalur: I saw picture from a week ago, lines in but maybe deep snow on approach

    Bolakettur: something doable but dry conditions

    Skardsheidi: in general looks ok but some lines are dry, may a bit of snow on approach

    Grafarfoss: from far looks in conditions, maybe a bit thin and some water running

    Tviburagill: from far looks in conditions, maybe a bit thin and some water running but both waterfalls are formed

    Vesturbrunir: looks there is some ice, at least Vopnid kvold and welcome to iceland have some ice, easy lines should be doable.

    Most of the north facing crags are good, south facing are dry and thin ice. Ground is not frozen that much.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67332
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    last week i’ve been climbing with Franco the following routes.
    -Glymur allur in Glymur, good conditions with first 2 pitches a bit wet
    -Orion in Flugugill, good conditions, a lot of snow on the approach, cauliflower ice on the first pitch and good ice on second. V-thread at the end of ice without topping out because of inconsistent snow on the last slope.
    -Lost and found in Grundarfjordur (next to Grundarfoss) more info soon (WI5-6ish)
    -Þvergill in Myrarhyrna quite a bit of snow and crost on easy pitches. WI3 refer only to the technical grade, but a general grade would be harder because of the length and complexity of rappelling down. Don’t take it easy!
    General conditions around RVK were pretty good as on the way north and in GRundarfjordur.
    Conditions in the south are poor on low elevation.

    in reply to: Ísklifurfestival 2019 Skráning #67242
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Me and Franco, 2 naetur og kvoldmat a Laugardag

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67202
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    Me and Siggi Ymir went in Brynjudalur today and climbed a couple of pitches (C4 and B1). Ice is good and most of the line are formed. The road is impassable by the farm because of an hard pile of snow, so count 15min more on the approach. A bit of crost on the approach the closer to the cliff.
    General conditions:
    everything look pretty formed from Grafarfoss til Mulafjall (looks great) and over. A bit of snow on the easier routes but easy to spot (es: 55gradur in Buahamrar looks buried in snow). Orion is good, Eilifsdalur great, Yringur looks doable (a couple of parts in doubt), Snati and Nalaraugad are good.
    Get the chances to go before the warm weather on monday til wednesday! 🙂 North exposed cliff are quite windy in these days.
    Another party further in the cliff maybe in Þyrnigerðið sector.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67044
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    went to Mulafjall yesterday to finish the bolting of „Bags and thoughts“ M7-8ish (A8b) in the Lundi (A9) sector. I saw the track made leading to Testofan, someone has been there the day before.
    Mulafjall looks pretty much in conditions but deep snow on approach (took me double the time to get to the top).

    On Friday me and Bergur Ingi went to Kjos and climbed Spori. Deep snow on the approach. the line is ok but 2 holes are making it bit trickier, is hollow on the top part. we didn’t find the anchor on the top and we walked down from the left.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 7 months síðan by Matteo.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 7 months síðan by Matteo.
    in reply to: Crossin North-South ski expedition #66890
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    I’m not the most expert in ski crossing but maybe I can help you a bit.
    Here you can have an idea how the thing are done by professional:
    https://mountainguides.is/tour/sprengisandur-ski?currency=ISK

    1) Where we can rent the equipment like tent, pulka, gps phone, etc?

    check on google or to Mountainguides.is asking for Hlynur.

    2) Where we can finish? Hella or Grafarkirkja

    Look that the winter is late this year and pretty unpredictable, we lack snow. On the newspaper today there is a pics of a place in the Highlands (kerlingafjoll) without snow. I personally think that if you can reach Hrauneyar on the way to Hella you can be pretty happy, southern than that is a lottery. If you refer as Grafarkirkja on the way to Kirkjubaerklaustur I think the crossing gets way harder and longer but probably still doable.

    3) How was the weater in February-March

    I think March better than Feb, longer daylights and bit more stable weather. April can be late and lack of snow. They say that if there is no snow for Christmas, snow will come for Easter. Maybe conditions will get better.

    4) There are any huts on the way?

    Few, Nyidalur and Laugafell. Check how to get access.
    ww.fi.is and http://www.ffa.is

    5) What do you think about the equipment, cross-country skiing or traverse skiing.

    Check the pictures in link

    6) We think to spend about 15 days, it is enough?

    The crossing is doable in 10, you can add as many as you like doing variations, and also be ready for a couple of stormy day.

    Enjoy and have fun,
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66791
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Me and Rory went to Mulafjall today. No ice conditions, we didn’t see any ice from RVK till Villingadalur then we drove back to Mulafjall.
    We gave a try to the recently bolted route „Mind power“ M7ish in Leikfangaland, almost sent, 1 rest on the crux…need to train more!
    I lost my Grivel crampons bag in the gully, please return if you find it.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66736
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    Me and Mike Reid went on Thorisjokull today, conditions were poor Birkitred is not formed and we found another line more right. We did a couple of pitches WI4/4+ 80m, with cornice crossing include. Ice wasn’t great, a bit of snow on top, hard to put gear. We lower from a gully right of the line.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66691
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Yesterday me and Jonni went in Blaskeggsa (Thyrill) and climbed 2 routes, one on the left (WI3/3+ 70m) and one on the right (WI3+/4 110m) of the valley. We don’t have many info about this valley, hopefully will improve the topos.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months síðan by Matteo.
    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66598
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    went in Mulafjall today to bolt a couple of routes. The first one in Leikfangaland, „Mind power“ M7ish 14 bolts on the left of D7 Dotadagur.
    The second not finished yet in in Testofan is C12 „Bestur vetur“.
    I saw 3 major rockfall happened during summertime, one on the right of Pabbaleid, one at the start of C8 Keisarinn and the last one on the right of D4 Fengitiminn in Leikfangaland: be careful on climbing close by!
    Ice is getting better even if some umbrella grew in this windy day, some cleaning needed in the climbing.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66585
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi, Jonni and Me went in Mulafjall. First we climbed an ice line (WI4) on left of „fimm I fotu“ and then the line on the right of „Chinese Hoax“ recently bolted by Palli (M6?) on October 6th.
    Quite more ice then last time. Didn’t snow in last part of Hvalfjordur as in RVK last night, no snow on the approach.
    Another party from Hvolsvollur climbed B10. Járntjaldið – WI 4.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66571
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Went in Mulafjall yesterday, bolted „Fear is 90“ in Leikfangland and open another project close by (info later on). Conditions are getting better, Testofan is climbable and many other lines look thin but doable. fresh snow while was there.
    Blikdalur looks doable
    Eilifsdalur looks doable

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #65961
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Went in Blikdalur today (http://www.isalp.is/en/problem/goda-ferd-ueli) for some easy scrambling. I did a line on the far left on ice (WI2+) and then the main gullies of the crag.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #65883
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi, with Siggi Ymir went to Hrutadalur yesterday and climbed a new line left of Bekri (64a). 4 pitches 240m WI4/4+ M (very scottish). Short screws , spectre cams nuts and tricams used. All belays on rock.
    Conditions in Hrutadalur and Eilifsdalur are good. something left in Mulafjall (Leikfangland, risandi looks doable but to be checked, something in Testofan and left). villingadalur might be in conditions.
    Skardsheidi is good.

    in reply to: Ísklifurfestival 2018 Skráning #64984
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Franco del Guerra kem lika fra fimmtudag til sunnudagur. Matur à fostudagur og laugardagur

    in reply to: Ísklifurfestival 2018 Skráning #64964
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Matteo frá fimmtudegi til sunnudags, kvöldmatur fyrir öll á föstudegi og laugardegi

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