Matteo

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  • in reply to: Iceland Winter Adventure #68351

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    I’m not experienced in crossing but here are my tips:
    – i would rather have skis (slightly wider than cross-country one) more than walking just to make easier.
    – Track is kind of ok, but of course depend how much you can do every day.I think in average you can do 25km, usually you need to sleep in the tent half way to huts.I know people take 9 days to get to Hella, maybe only 4 is a bit optimistic.
    – I think after Hrauneyiar can be that the snow pack is little or not present, so carry sledge on half of the south coast can be really painful (i don’t know if that is in the project, or you drop them in Hella) unless you have wheels to put underneath.
    Cheers,
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67626

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    I went to the west face of Kristinartindar today and climbed a new route on the right of Endurfundir, WI4 200m „Blunt spikes“. conditions are good in this place, hard snow on the approach in early morning.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67606

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    with Agust went to Mulafjall. Good conditions all the lines are pretty much in, quite a bit of ice. We did 4 lines on the right of B1 Duma Amma, all about WI3.
    Few days ago i did a drive in Hvalfjordur and Borgarnes, here is a quick report:

    Brynjudalur: looks good, even Yringur is in but the first part, Orion was looking ok from far.

    Eilifsdalur: all lines in conditions, maybe a bit of snow on the approach and on the easy one.

    Hrutadalur: looks good, snow on the approach

    Villingadalur: I saw picture from a week ago, lines in but maybe deep snow on approach

    Bolakettur: something doable but dry conditions

    Skardsheidi: in general looks ok but some lines are dry, may a bit of snow on approach

    Grafarfoss: from far looks in conditions, maybe a bit thin and some water running

    Tviburagill: from far looks in conditions, maybe a bit thin and some water running but both waterfalls are formed

    Vesturbrunir: looks there is some ice, at least Vopnid kvold and welcome to iceland have some ice, easy lines should be doable.

    Most of the north facing crags are good, south facing are dry and thin ice. Ground is not frozen that much.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67332

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    last week i’ve been climbing with Franco the following routes.
    -Glymur allur in Glymur, good conditions with first 2 pitches a bit wet
    -Orion in Flugugill, good conditions, a lot of snow on the approach, cauliflower ice on the first pitch and good ice on second. V-thread at the end of ice without topping out because of inconsistent snow on the last slope.
    -Lost and found in Grundarfjordur (next to Grundarfoss) more info soon (WI5-6ish)
    -Þvergill in Myrarhyrna quite a bit of snow and crost on easy pitches. WI3 refer only to the technical grade, but a general grade would be harder because of the length and complexity of rappelling down. Don’t take it easy!
    General conditions around RVK were pretty good as on the way north and in GRundarfjordur.
    Conditions in the south are poor on low elevation.

    in reply to: Ísklifurfestival 2019 Skráning #67242

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Me and Franco, 2 naetur og kvoldmat a Laugardag

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67202

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    Me and Siggi Ymir went in Brynjudalur today and climbed a couple of pitches (C4 and B1). Ice is good and most of the line are formed. The road is impassable by the farm because of an hard pile of snow, so count 15min more on the approach. A bit of crost on the approach the closer to the cliff.
    General conditions:
    everything look pretty formed from Grafarfoss til Mulafjall (looks great) and over. A bit of snow on the easier routes but easy to spot (es: 55gradur in Buahamrar looks buried in snow). Orion is good, Eilifsdalur great, Yringur looks doable (a couple of parts in doubt), Snati and Nalaraugad are good.
    Get the chances to go before the warm weather on monday til wednesday! 🙂 North exposed cliff are quite windy in these days.
    Another party further in the cliff maybe in Þyrnigerðið sector.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #67044

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    went to Mulafjall yesterday to finish the bolting of „Bags and thoughts“ M7-8ish (A8b) in the Lundi (A9) sector. I saw the track made leading to Testofan, someone has been there the day before.
    Mulafjall looks pretty much in conditions but deep snow on approach (took me double the time to get to the top).

    On Friday me and Bergur Ingi went to Kjos and climbed Spori. Deep snow on the approach. the line is ok but 2 holes are making it bit trickier, is hollow on the top part. we didn’t find the anchor on the top and we walked down from the left.

    • This reply was modified 9 mánuðir, 3 weeks síðan by  Matteo.
    • This reply was modified 9 mánuðir, 3 weeks síðan by  Matteo.
    in reply to: Crossin North-South ski expedition #66890

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    I’m not the most expert in ski crossing but maybe I can help you a bit.
    Here you can have an idea how the thing are done by professional:
    https://mountainguides.is/tour/sprengisandur-ski?currency=ISK

    1) Where we can rent the equipment like tent, pulka, gps phone, etc?

    check on google or to Mountainguides.is asking for Hlynur.

    2) Where we can finish? Hella or Grafarkirkja

    Look that the winter is late this year and pretty unpredictable, we lack snow. On the newspaper today there is a pics of a place in the Highlands (kerlingafjoll) without snow. I personally think that if you can reach Hrauneyar on the way to Hella you can be pretty happy, southern than that is a lottery. If you refer as Grafarkirkja on the way to Kirkjubaerklaustur I think the crossing gets way harder and longer but probably still doable.

    3) How was the weater in February-March

    I think March better than Feb, longer daylights and bit more stable weather. April can be late and lack of snow. They say that if there is no snow for Christmas, snow will come for Easter. Maybe conditions will get better.

    4) There are any huts on the way?

    Few, Nyidalur and Laugafell. Check how to get access.
    ww.fi.is and http://www.ffa.is

    5) What do you think about the equipment, cross-country skiing or traverse skiing.

    Check the pictures in link

    6) We think to spend about 15 days, it is enough?

    The crossing is doable in 10, you can add as many as you like doing variations, and also be ready for a couple of stormy day.

    Enjoy and have fun,
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66791

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Me and Rory went to Mulafjall today. No ice conditions, we didn’t see any ice from RVK till Villingadalur then we drove back to Mulafjall.
    We gave a try to the recently bolted route „Mind power“ M7ish in Leikfangaland, almost sent, 1 rest on the crux…need to train more!
    I lost my Grivel crampons bag in the gully, please return if you find it.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66736

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    Me and Mike Reid went on Thorisjokull today, conditions were poor Birkitred is not formed and we found another line more right. We did a couple of pitches WI4/4+ 80m, with cornice crossing include. Ice wasn’t great, a bit of snow on top, hard to put gear. We lower from a gully right of the line.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66691

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Yesterday me and Jonni went in Blaskeggsa (Thyrill) and climbed 2 routes, one on the left (WI3/3+ 70m) and one on the right (WI3+/4 110m) of the valley. We don’t have many info about this valley, hopefully will improve the topos.

    • This reply was modified 11 mánuðir, 1 week síðan by  Matteo.
    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66598

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    went in Mulafjall today to bolt a couple of routes. The first one in Leikfangaland, „Mind power“ M7ish 14 bolts on the left of D7 Dotadagur.
    The second not finished yet in in Testofan is C12 „Bestur vetur“.
    I saw 3 major rockfall happened during summertime, one on the right of Pabbaleid, one at the start of C8 Keisarinn and the last one on the right of D4 Fengitiminn in Leikfangaland: be careful on climbing close by!
    Ice is getting better even if some umbrella grew in this windy day, some cleaning needed in the climbing.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66585

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi, Jonni and Me went in Mulafjall. First we climbed an ice line (WI4) on left of „fimm I fotu“ and then the line on the right of „Chinese Hoax“ recently bolted by Palli (M6?) on October 6th.
    Quite more ice then last time. Didn’t snow in last part of Hvalfjordur as in RVK last night, no snow on the approach.
    Another party from Hvolsvollur climbed B10. Járntjaldið – WI 4.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2018-2019 #66571

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Went in Mulafjall yesterday, bolted „Fear is 90“ in Leikfangland and open another project close by (info later on). Conditions are getting better, Testofan is climbable and many other lines look thin but doable. fresh snow while was there.
    Blikdalur looks doable
    Eilifsdalur looks doable

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #65961

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Went in Blikdalur today (http://www.isalp.is/en/problem/goda-ferd-ueli) for some easy scrambling. I did a line on the far left on ice (WI2+) and then the main gullies of the crag.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #65883

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi, with Siggi Ymir went to Hrutadalur yesterday and climbed a new line left of Bekri (64a). 4 pitches 240m WI4/4+ M (very scottish). Short screws , spectre cams nuts and tricams used. All belays on rock.
    Conditions in Hrutadalur and Eilifsdalur are good. something left in Mulafjall (Leikfangland, risandi looks doable but to be checked, something in Testofan and left). villingadalur might be in conditions.
    Skardsheidi is good.

    in reply to: Ísklifurfestival 2018 Skráning #64984

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Franco del Guerra kem lika fra fimmtudag til sunnudagur. Matur à fostudagur og laugardagur

    in reply to: Ísklifurfestival 2018 Skráning #64964

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Matteo frá fimmtudegi til sunnudags, kvöldmatur fyrir öll á föstudegi og laugardegi

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #64649

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    yesterday on the 24th me and Riccardo we climbed the line above the Forest center on Ulfarsfell (WI2). A lot of fun on his first ice-line!
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #64484

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    yesterday with Tom, Tim and Brecht we went on Midgil in Vesturbrunir. condition are dry, lot of snow and little ice; a lot of mix since the beginning and hard to put rock gear (screws just used few times and not on crux).

    Today with Tom, a quick ride on Buahamrar: first, the evident ice line on the left of n°35, second n°36 Strumpar and third Nálaraugað (2 bolted belay).
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #64328

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    with Brecht and Tom went on Tviburagil. Conditions are good except for Helvitis..M4 that is completely dry. I had to dig out 20cm of ice by the top anchor. Bit wet the lower waterfall.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2017-18 #64267

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    Tom and me went to 55 gradur today. Conditions are good, the pillar was wet and the other route on the right is thin. Many routes in Buahamrar are formed, nothing relevant on Vesturbrunir.
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2016-2017 #62742

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    I’ve been traveling a bit in the last week.
    Hrutadalur is in good conditions all the line are good. maybe after the snowfall of yesterday there is high risk of avalanches.I did two new lines, and easy gully (Bull by the horn WI2) on the right (first line on the approach) and a second on the left of the beginning of Thjodleid, Spenntir könnuðir WI4+.
    Mulafjall is in early season conditions, bit of ice, most of the lines climbable, some bolts are sticking out maybe better to top rope.
    Haukadalur poor conditions, tin ice and a lot of water in most of the lines.
    Brattabrekka lot of water, not formed
    austarardalur, saw from the road, maybe some ice
    bolaklettur tin ice
    skessuhorn is looking quite good
    villingadalur some ice but open by water , maybe a lot of snow now.
    Eilifsdalur is good, really good but risk of avalanches now

    the following week is forecast as cold , maybe something else is going in conditions.
    Matteo

    in reply to: Ísklifurfestival 2017 Skráning #62425

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    coming! try to leave on thursday and stay 3 nights.
    I have a friend coming as well.

    in reply to: Ísklifuraðstæður 2016-2017 #62389

    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Hi,
    short update about conditions. On Tuesday i went on a round trip of Esja and Skarsheidi: here is a short report.
    Grafarfoss: went today and is ok, ice non always thick but some lines are good.
    Tviburagill: on tues was pretty dry, maybe some more ice now
    Vesturbrunir: dry except for welcome to iceland that is looking ok
    Blikidalur: looks there are some lines
    Hrutadalur: long approach but good conditions..see new ascents
    Eilifsdalur: long approach but pretty good conditions all lines!!
    Mulafjall: looks medium cold, probably to icy for dry but need more ice for ice.
    Brynjudalur: pretty dry
    Villingadalur: the lines were looking snow cover and with water in middle, but was before these cold day …so maybe ok
    Bolaklettur: dry, needs more time

    Pictures on FB @matteo100challenge
    Matteo

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