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all the routes have been climbed and grades are (from the right):
A D4, FA Matteo Meucci (up in the gully, 12 quickdraw needed)
B D5, FA Matteo Meucci (up in the gully, 3rd bolt has fixed quickdraw, 12 are needed)
N1 D5+, FA Matteo Meucci (dihedral, 12 quickdraw)
N2 D6+, FA Matteo Meucci (12 quickdraw)
N3 D8/8+, FA Matteo Meucci (first with fixed quickdraw, 8 quickdraw are needed)
N4 D7+/8, FA Matteo Meucci (8 quickdraw needed)
N5 D9/9+, FA Matteo Meucci (line in the full roof, 8 quickdraw needed)
N6 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, long green sling as fixed quickdraw, 6 needed)
N7 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, 6 quickdraw needed)
N8 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, 6 quickdraw needed, start from the left of the crag)
N9 D8, FA Angelika Rainer (4 quickdraw needed, Blue sling and black carabiners)
N10 D6+/7, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (4 quickdraw needed)
N11 D8+, FA Matteo Meucci (4 quickdraw needed, Black sling and yellow carabiners)
N12 D8 FA Matteo Meucci (4 quickdraw needed)
Manage to send N12 yesterday, I think it is D8, very tricky. Long reaches and poor feet at the last bolt to cross the roof. 8 quickdraw needed
1-5 is about 20m
6-7-8-9 are the same but the wall is so overhanging that when you lower you end 10m below the start, so would say 30m
10-12 are short, maybe 15m
Went to Mulafjal with Andrea and climbed a new route in Leikfangland, Mother Earth M7+ on trad pre-placed.
Went to Þilið today with Andrea and Matteo. we climbed two pitches and then rappelled down. there are big umbrellas and the cornice on top is huge. the entire sector looks in good conditions.
we left the car at the fence and took 2h for the approach.
Went to Hvalfjordur-Reynivallaháls and climbed route n30 Nóngil http://www.isalp.is/en/problem/nongil with andrea and Matteo. we did 9 pitches, all about 50m and only one of 30m. except one, the rest they have steps to climb. Very nice route, highly recommended. We did the left branch on the top.
Carpark at Stepji natural monument. Approach 10min and descent by a slope east then the route (there is also a gully that can be used).
Went to Hvalfjordur at Hvamsvik and climbed what is most likely Stufur WI3. The pillar is hollow and has water inside, after today is going to be really dangerous to climb it. More potential for the spot. Mind the tide to access the place.
Went to Villingadalur with Andrea, brook and Matteo yesterday and climbed Hades and Kerberos. good conditions even though ice is crusty most of the times.
Went to Blikdalur and climbed 2 new routes with Andrea. we did the approach from Esjustofa, took 2,5h and 2h back. Conditions are good, very hard snow on the approach and every slope. we used a gully on the right to descend and climb the second route and the attempt of the 3rd.
First line: WI4 40m, WI3 40m, WI3 30m, 110m belay on rocks on top.
Second line: WI3+ 55m, WI3 55m, 110m belay on ice on the top
Went to North ridge of Skessuhorn today with Andrea. good conditions. the NW wall instead looks very dry, maybe climbable.
We did a drive on the way back, looks there are many lines to climb a bit everywhere. high elevation is better.
Went to Blikdalur yesterday and climbed Vegvísir with Andrea. We choose the approach from the truck scale next to the Hvalfjordur tunnel and took us 3h; first 45-60 min you follow a jeep track then is nothing to follow except staying close to the stream. Need to cross a lot of small gully and stream.
The route is fun and we did in 3 pitches; first a solid WI4 looks like a slab (40m), then a WI4+ of a pillar (30m). The last one cross some umbrellas and it is quite tricky (WI4, 30m). Descent is by a slope on the left of the route. We left the backpack at the bottom. The way back is is just slightly quicker (2.5h). There is another approach form Esja Steinn, going over the mountain and lower to the route; watch out at avalanche terrain! Probably slightly shorter.
With Andrea went to Weird Girl in Skálafell.
The route is a bit shorter then picture because of snow collecting in the gully. Good rock to belay on the top on the left.
very short climbing at the moment, 30mish, not suggested.
We did also a scouting drive in Hvalfjordur and Borgarnes area.
-Kjos there is something but looks in November conditions
-Mulafjall not that much but easy lines are probably climbable
-Villingadalur looks in good conditions
-Skessuhorn we couldn’t see
-Bolaklettur looks in early season conditions
-Grafarfoss probably climbable
-Buahamrar is getting there
-on Monday to Bolaklettur to climb “Bara ef mamma Vissi” that is in exceptional conditions WI5 with Andrea (1pitch 50m, rappel down on Vthread).
-on Tuesday to Áslaukur in Kjös with Bjartur in great conditions (1pitch 50m, rappel down on Vthread).
-on Wednesday to Þráin in Háifoss with Bjartur WI6 in good conditions (2 pitches of 50-55m).
Went to Bolakletur with Andrea yesterday and climbed the river Árdalsá with 2 pitches and then 2 more little steps in solo WI3.
Today with Andrea and Brook went to Brattabrekka and climbed Single malt on the rocks. The entire river is frozen and the line is nice. Some petals on the crux pitch make this a bit more challenging. Last pitches on ice.
Went to Glymur yesterday and climbed Hvalur 2. The canyon was flooded and wasn’t possible to go any further. brittle ice. We probably did a variation from the 3pitch going on the left. The upper pillar wasn’t looking connected.
Today we went to Kjos in the canyon north of Aslakur. 2 possible new lines.
Went to Gullfoss yesterday with Andrea and Brook.
Climbed Hvitagull and Svingersklobb.
Hvitagull in good condition 20min approach from the parking lot; we did follow the road after crossing the gate but is also possible to follow the path to Gullfoss and then turn left and reach the line. we used a fixed rope to abseil, anchor on the ground (frozen stream).
I really suggest Svingersklobb as well, is it on the way few minutes driving back after lower some turns. follow the road to the summer house and then turn to the field before crossing the river.
Went to Brynkudalur today in Hestagill.
Climb a WI4 ate the beginning of the canyon and then after climbing a 10m step along the river we arrived at another line that is about half way of the canyon. Is possible to get to this route by a slope on the other side of the stream (left going upstream).
The pitch is 50m and WI6, belay on top on ice, V-thread for abseiling.
Think both are first ascent.
Went in Brynkudalur Sunday and Monday.
Climbed 2 lines on the far left of sector C Ingunnarstadir, just above the farm; a really wide route about WI4 and a skinny one on the gully on the left WI3.
second time we went at the end of the valley with about 1h approach; climbed a pillar on the left and then kept going with easier steps for 4 pitches in total WI4. Then we went by the waterfall of the main stream and we climbed on the right. We choose the dry line WI3.
Went to Brynjudalur yesterday and climbed a few line on the C sector, far left.
Condition are good in the valley but the B sector is still in poor conditions.
- This reply was modified 11 months, 4 weeks ago by Matteo.
Went to Mulafjall on the 23rd. Couple of routes in Testofan and others on Kotlugrof. Not many lines in conditions and those with ice have a lot and big umbrellas.
Another party went far left (Hollow wall about)
Went to Bolaklettur today and climbed route C3. 5 pitches still skinny in the lower part but easy climbable. Descent from the gully on the right from the top.
We also took a drive through Hvalfjordur on the way back : Villingadalur looks good, Mulafjall still good as in the WE, First part of Brynjudalur is good as well ( Orion was looking done, but was a bit dark so might be wrong)
Went to Brynjudalur yesterday with Marco and Jose. We climbed C8 Med fjora tigu nauta, then a line in a gully on the left C7a, then we started the line C7.
Conditions start to be in, most of the line easier then WI4 are formed. Harder line need more time.
Went to Kjös yesterday with Andrea and Marco.
We climbed Icesave with snow conditions, no ice and then 2 possible new line in the canyon of Þverá next to the farm of Hækingsdalur.
We walked pass by Áslakur but it is open on the top with running water.
Conditions in the first part of Kjös looks still early season for harder then 4 and a bit snowy for easier.
Went to Tviburagill Monday and Wednesday, some routes are in good conditions (Olympiska, Verkalysfelagid) but the waterfall are not ready yet (also HFF and the other are missing ice to get out, non bolts).
I sent a project (N14 in the topos) “Sturm und drang” M7+/M8.
On Tuesday I went in Kjos for áslákur but looks still thin. we moved to Drauðsmannfoss that is climbable but still wet. we also climbed Dingulberi.
went to Mulafjall yesterday and we did a couple of route in Testofan that we consider safe for the conditions.
Överpið has the first bolt on a loose rock, I’m going to replace soon.
Mulakaffi, I left a maillot years ago on the belay, rusted in the time, maybe I’ll put a ring and we can more easily top rope.