Drytooling Búahellir

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  • #74155
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Topic for those want to go and practicing DT at the cave. We will try to keep updated and we will post suggested grades as soon as we manage to free the lines.

    The rock is solid and most of the hooks are drilled. The red marks are below the holes with the exception of under clinch then they are above. There are red dots for suggested natural holds (crack…..); if it is very obvious or much easier then the hard part of the route is it possible that there are no marks.

    60m rope is needed along with 12-14 quickdraws.

    There are btw 8 to 12 bolts on the routes, then all the anchors are with rings, so you have to thread the rope through: HAVE SOME GEAR TO DO IT! (a longe or 2 quickdraw and a locking carabiner are enough).

    Is it possible that small rocks are falling during climbing, watch out and wear the helmet.

    There are some fixed quickdraws but you always need some to climb the routes, they are only on the harder and most overhanging part.

    Routes 1-5 have a small platform at the base, please do not destroy them but please make them nicer.

    Routes 6-7 is better if are belayed from the lower big terrace but be careful on the first 2-3 bolts because the climber can ground if too much slack is given.

    Routes 8-12  there is another little terrace at the bottom but the climber is going to lower on the main terrace 10m below.

    Routes are numbered from left to right:

    N1  D6+       FA Matteo (need to be fully confirmed)  2 steep part with a good rest halfway

    N2  D7/7+    FA Matteo (need to be fully confirmed) overhanging shield, tricky natural hold on the last bolt

    N3  D8+?     really hard under clinch just below the little roof with bad feet

    N4  D8?       Long hard sequence with a tricky crack to get out of the steep part. Do not underestimate the exit, on natural holds.

    N5  D9+/D10?  Roof with poor feet, hard move to go over the edge

    N6

    N7

    N8

    N9

    N10

    N11

    N12

    #74173
    Siggi RichterSiggi Richter
    Participant

    Virkilega vel gert Matteo! Get ekki beðið eftir að prófa þetta fljótlega!
    Any idea of the length of the routes?

    #74197
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Routes length:
    1-5 is about 20m
    6-7-8-9 are the same but the wall is so overhanging that when you lower you end 10m below the start, so would say 30m
    10-12 are short, maybe 15m

    #74277
    Matteo
    Keymaster

    Manage to send N12 yesterday, I think it is D8, very tricky. Long reaches and poor feet at the last bolt to cross the roof. 8 quickdraw needed

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