First and main gully on the left of Brynjudalur after the forest.
Approach about 50min.
Possibilities of short line in the gully. To get to the route you need to cross a big block, we did on the right on the rocks but if enough ice is better on the left.
Descent by the slope on the left or the right.
FF: Bergur Sigurdarson and Matteo Meucci 12/02/2021
Evident and difficult line.
We climbed only 3 pitches then we thought was impossible to continue because of lack of ice. So we consider an attempt.
We know that the route was already tried back in the days from Palli Sveinsson and Co.
We will update if will be completed
1st attempt : Palli Sveinsson 2 pitches
2nd attempt : Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 25/02/2020 3pitches
Where the river from Hvannadalur meet Virkisjokull.
Start on the top of the little moraine next to the river. Thin ice on the first pitch.
to descend is better to make a rappel to the right (uppvalley) and then traverse to reach the river.
FF: Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 27/02/2020
approach 1,45-2h from Falljokull regular parking lot
After the second pitch of the route we went left because the pillar wasn’t connected.
First 20m on mix terrain with poor protection then a dihedral and then steep ice all the way.
One full pitch to get to the ledge, then 2 more to get out. first we went on the gully on the left and then we exit on route N8.
Approach about 1h from the farm. Stay on the left of the river high on the slope and then when possible lower in the river and follow it until crossing the gully of “Far is never far enough” at that point the river make a really sharp turn and is better to go up on the slope a little further on the left (we found a step on the river with an open pool impossible to cross) then lower on the river again after the ridge.
2 pitches. Belay on the top, or ice or some rocks.
Descent: follow the slope heading to the farm.
Yellow line on the topos, left line on the Y shape route.
FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 2/2/2021
Amazing waterfall of 60m .
Approach is about 1h from the farm
Line in green in the topos
Possible to rappel down or walk out by the slope on the right
FF: Andrea Fiocca, Brook Woodman and Matteo Meucci 2/2/2021
Evident gully on the right of Bara ef Mamma vissi.
Stay on the right of the river and head on the right up on the slope before descending to the river coming from Inni-hvilft sector.
Possible to rappel down on Vthread or walking down the next gully on the right (route right), with little steps of ice.
FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 3/2/2021
Route number A15.
Enjoyable route that need long period of cold to fully form.
Follow the river Árdalsá on the left of the crag of Bolaklettur.
2 main pitches then more little steps until the end.
Possible to walk out at almost every pitch and steps , better on the right to reach the slope and the path to go back at the bottom of the valley.
2-3 pitches depending on the slope conditions.
Rocks on top for belay. Rappel down on Vthread or walk down a slope and gully on the right of the line.
Route C3 in the topos
The route start with a wide pitch and the get in to a narrow gully that can be followed all the way up with some ice step on the way.
5 pitches 240m WI4
Descent : or rappel before getting in the gully or if top out then take evident gully on the right (climbing side).
Sustained climb with an overhanging section then only in the last meters become easy.
Rappel on V-thread
N1-very suggested to warm up on the route 7 and then if the river is frozen there is a 10m pillar to climb that lead to this route.
N2 -is to walk up the slope on the left (going upstream) of the gully until facing the route and then descend the easy slope to get to the route
FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca 27/01/2021 WI6 50m
First route that appear walking towards the gully of Hestagil, it is on the left side going upstream.
Approach about 40′ from Forest Office Hut.
Main obstacle can be to cross the river; we manage quite well by going upstream of the intersection coming from Hestagill.
Possible to rappel down or walk down a slope and then back at the base in the canyon.
FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca 27/01/2021 45m WI4
Gully right of C0B4
FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m
FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m
Line in the ice dihedral. Can be done in 3 pitches or skipping the first 2 by scrambling.
FF: Matteo Meucci and Michele Gaeta 22/01/2021 WI3 40m
Route G5 in the topos.
Evident waterfall at the end of the valley. 1h Approach
stay on the left of the valley going upstream and then close to the waterfall follow the river if frozen. Possible to follow the slopes on the left if no ice on the river.
We climbed on the right because was dry. Amazing environment.
FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021 40m WI3
Route G3 in the picture.
Evident pillar by the end of the valley.
The route continue all the way up with several steps with snow slopes in between. At the second pitch we went right but it is possible to go left on a similar gully.
Approach about 50min, we stood on the left of the valley (going upstream ) after parking at Forest Service Hut.
FF: Bergur Sigurðarson and friend climbed the first pitch in Nov 2020
Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021 4 pitches
Line C0A4 in the topos
40m line with a ledge after 10m. possible to descent from the gully on the right.
Sector above the farm of Ingunnarstaðir, 20min approach
FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 24/01/2021 WI4 40m