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There are a number of interesting gullies or ‘gils’ on the North side of Hvammsheiði accessed from Laxárdalur. The route climbs through the ravine forming the climbers right branch of Vondagil and up the face at it’s head, finishing on the high plateau of Hvammsheiði. The first section which is not visible in the photo consisted of soloing around 350m of WI1+ to WI2+ terrain. The pitched climbing starts a short distance above the obvious junction with the shorter line to the right.
A fairly unique route featuring colourful spray ice. The line is direct starting a few metres right of the small cave climbing ‘cauliflowers’ in the lower half. Then the angle briefly eases before launching up the large steep ‘mushrooms’ below the right end of the cornice in the upper section. WI4, 55m.
Above the remains of the historic power station in the Merkurá gorge on the True Left. The route went up the cascade to the left of the cave like feature at the bottom. Left again there is a steeper WI4 variation that looks good. Climbed in two shortish pitchs around WI3/3+. The top out is “mixed” and you have to hunt hard for a top anchor.
The main ravine/gully system draining the North East flank of Hoffellstindur, through the major cliff bands starting just above the valley floor. Approximately 400m in length gaining 250m via a series of around eight “steps” of wildly varying character. From wide cascades, easy runnels, to narrow steep gully ice. The longest pitch was around 40m.
Situated in the amphitheater behind Systrastapi Rock when viewed from the highway. Access is easy – park near Kirkjubæjarstofa and follow the marked historic trail from the end of the 205 towards Systrastapi. We climbed the steeper righthand side which is closer to WI2+. This waterfall would make an ideal beginners lead.
Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 30/01/2021, one pitch of 50m+.
Located a short way up Krossárgljúfur where a small side creek drops down the True Right wall. The top third of the route can be seen from the highway. The first section is of high quality and very sustained until a good rest is reached on the large obvious ledge before the final steps. One pitch, WI4+, 45m+.
This route is located in the next side ravine beyond the ‘Dominos’ gully on the true right of the Merkurá valley.
Climbed in one long pitch. The route begins up WI3 steps, with straight forward footwork on fat ice even when other routes in the area are on the lean side. From the obvious constriction the route lays back to WI2 for approximately 30m for a total length of around 55m. (Note the first “step” is hidden in the photo)