Route in the bottom of Svartagjá in Botnsdal, close to Glymsgil
Excellent route which deserves more visits.
The route starts with a short step, WI3, which leads into the canyon. Walk up the rocky canyon takes you to a 60 meter tall waterfall, WI4. The route can be climbed in two 30 meter pitches with a nice belay in a small cave on the right.
Pictures from an attempt of the route can be found here.
Hnjúkaþeyr was first climbed 13th of October 2020. The idea was to follow the most direct line on the face as possible.
The approach was done on skis from Hnappavallaleið and took around five hours. Similar to the Italian Job the climbers traversed onto the face to avoid dropping too much height and safe some time. If the approach is done from Svínafellsjökull it’s well possible to follow Beina Brautin onto the face.
The climbers simul-climbed the lower section of the face and climbed one third grade pitch on a running belay leading them to the junction of Beina Brautin and Vinamissir. A waterfall around 100 meter long had formed there leading all the way to the top in two pitches.
Hnjúkaþeyr is the Icelandic word for Föhn winds which are particularly common in the area. Continue reading →