var að berast … UIAA issue

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    Þess má geta að Ísalp er ekki félagi UIAA.


    Yooooo our other good climbing friends in beautiful Iceland…

    You might share our amusement in regard to some current rabble rousing, trouble causing, and general carrying on in regard to our dear friends in the prestigious American Alpine Club and UIAA…

    (The power-addicted AmerAC boys are concerned over their possible loss of a bit of power in UIAA, so we are ragging them and laughing robustly.)

    For UIAA distribution to officers and delegates, and for open publishing.

    From Doug Buchanan, delegate to UIAA

    Subject: A strong UIAA Council

    To my fellow mountain climbers in the UIAA leadership and membership,

    Please be so kind as to consider my words, if you wish to do so.

    Notice that this letter cannot rely on a prestigious title of the author, and therefore relies on reasoning. Which do you use for your decisions?

    Apparently there is a discussion of eliminating, retaining or strengthening the UIAA Council.

    You may find this response of great entertainment and a source of robust laugher, if you are a climber.

    I have examined the organizational manifestations of human fundamentals, or, how the human mind itself utilizes organizational concepts. The knowledge explains why organizations fail their expressed goals, and the process to efficiently correct the failures, such as the failures of the UIAA Council and UIAA leaders.

    That knowledge is universally feared by organization leaders who cannot tolerate any suggestion that their institutional process is fundamentally flawed, especially if the suggestion is offered without financial charge. Therefore I rarely assist egotistical organization leaders, without charge, who are offended by useful suggestions from mere members or common people who used their time to learn useful knowledge rather than collect impressive organizational titles that fool title holders into believing that they thus acquired useful knowledge.

    But my very good friend and colleague, The UIAA Honorary Member William Lowell Putnam of the prestigious American Alpine Club, supported in this regard by Mr. Robert Pettigrew, President and Chairman of a couple prestigious UIAA Committees with long names, have suggested that the UIAA Council must not be abolished, and that its power should be strengthened.

    Is there any power that does not corrupt? Do you use your own mind’s answers to questions?

    I am always amused with opportunities to assist my good friend Bill Putnam.

    Bill and Bob suggest that the UIAA Council offers a braking action for an otherwise Eurocentric organization that, without the Council, would leave the American Alpine Club with very little to say about what goes on, and that without the Council, the AmerAC would not feel good about continuing to send money to UIAA.

    I laughed robustly, for reason that may be useful for the advancement of UIAA.

    Many organizations such as the AmerAC and UIAA were originally formed on concepts useful for their members, but then the concepts were commonly corrupted by petty organizational power games, played by egotistical officers who crave personal power. The phenomenon is normal for unwise leaders of organizations and governments. The original goals and interests of the members become meaningless to the organization officers bickering over who holds how much power.

    At certain times in their history, the gap between the utility of the organizations to the members, and the use of the organizations for only the petty leaders, can result in an opportunity for useful change. Either the members throw out the useless bickering leaders, and reclaim the utility of the organization for the interests of members, selecting wiser leaders without inflated egos, or the members start new organizations (or governments), to leave the leaders with an organization name that is recognized as representing only the leaders. An organization that represents only the leaders, without claiming to represent members, can be useful, but the leaders must be wise people who are not interested in personal power. That is rare.

    UIAA’s ineffective claim to represent actual climbers, and its general uselessness to climbers, is a result of its leaders representing only their petty personal power games, such as which section of UIAA has what power over the other sections, or over international climbers, while foolishly claiming to represent actual climbers who therefore see no real benefit in UIAA.

    Like many such organizations of leaders serving only their egos, UIAA routinely reorganizes itself, because its leaders do not know how to do anything else. That process requires time and effort which could have been used to benefit climbers. If UIAA simply stopped reorganizing itself, and used a basic organization to actually benefit climbers, UIAA would become highly respected by the climbers who currently laugh at UIAA and its useless leaders.

    The American Alpine Club leaders, who fool themselves in the same manner, have done much to keep UIAA ineffective, by playing the same petty personal power games that the Eurocentric UIAA leaders have played, compounding the effect. The AmerAC has kept UIAA rarely discussed among climbers in the United States, because the AmerAC leaders cannot tolerate competition with their ego gratification leadership image. They play the leadership image game rather than actually benefit climbers. The AmerAC has long been led by childish, egotistical chaps who consider themselves to be superior to common climbers.

    Because the AmerAC made itself dependent upon organizational and governmental power over climbers, for leadership ego trips, and because climbers inherently defy institutional power, by definition of what mountain climbing is, the AmerAC has never represented actual climbers, and cannot escape its reputation, especially while it is currently reinforcing that reputation. It represents wealthy egotists who crave the power to force their decisions onto the unquestioning, gullible AmerAC members, and all other climbers, at cost paid by the climbers, which compounds that image of UIAA upon each association with the AmerAC.

    An organization that represents climber issues, instead of the power of its leaders, can earn great respect and support for its leaders. UIAA and the AmerAC will each eventually be replaced by such an organization of actual climbers. Power is self-defeating.

    The UIAA Council centralizes what was the UIAA General Assembly’s authority, into a smaller and thus more easily corrupted, more easily bought-off decision-making entity. A simple analysis of the AmerAC and other corrupted organizations reveals the common use of centralized power groups to effect what common members would not authorize.

    Notice that when UIAA invited the Alaskan Alpine Club to send a climbing competition team to the first UIAA World Cup meet at Leeds, and the Alaskan team beat the American Alpine Club team, which would cause honest people to congratulate the Alaskan team, Bill Putnam, pitiable chap that he is, representing the AmerAC perfectly, was so angered that he demanded that the UIAA leadership force the Alaskan Alpine Club team to become the American Alpine Club team, and deny the right of the Alaskan UIAA member to continue to compete in the UIAA World Cup. The UIAA leaders dutifully complied with the AmerAC command, as usual because of the AmerAC money influence. The AmerAC formalized its demand by using its power in the UIAA Council, where the AknAC was not a Council member. The UIAA leaders then disallowed the General Assembly from discussing the issue because the Council had already made the decision. That is a common process of simple organizational corruption to serve the centralized power of the leaders, above the interests of the members.

    The AmerAC, their UIAA leaders, and their UIAA Council represented themselves accurately for the world to consider. We laughed robustly. The Alaskan Alpine Club therefore became more popular among actual climbers who learned to hold UIAA and AmerAC in further contempt.

    If the AmerAC knew that it faced the General Assembly for such a decision, rather than the AmerAC controlled Council, the AmerAC would not have even attempted such a repugnant scam that defines the UIAA World Cup as politically corrupted. The AmerAC and UIAA Council corruption could not prevail in face of open debate among the common member delegates of the General Assembly, for the same reason that wars could not be started if the decision to start them was made by the common people rather than the leaders.

    The AmerAC’s similar attempt to attack the rights and opportunities of common climbers visiting Antarctica, an attack designed to increase the petty power of AmerAC and UIAA leaders, was hastily withdrawn when the AknAC counter proposal was openly presented for General Assembly discussion.

    There are other examples, and they will not disappear. A strong UIAA Council, or any UIAA Council, is a primary source of AmerAC power and its corruption of UIAA, therefore damaging UIAA’s integrity. Such actions are observed by the actual climbers in the world, increasingly so in the internet age. The AmerAC continues to fool only fools, much to the amusement of climbers.

    Therefore, should not the non-Council UIAA General Assembly members form a Council, to defend their interests from the Council, and does not the logical suggestion illuminate the reason the Council should be abolished?

    If the Council provides the wealthy AmerAC the power it expressly demands under threat of no longer sending money to UIAA, the power the AmerAC uses to successfully attack the rights of climbers in smaller organizations, is it not apparent that the smaller organizations need their own Council in UIAA to defend themselves from the AmerAC controlled UIAA Council?

    Now therefore, shall UIAA strengthen the Council, and its addiction to Bill Putnam’s AmerAC money, to further advance AmerAC power over common mountain climbers, which matches the Eurocentric UIAA leadership power plays over climbers?

    Or shall UIAA eliminate that source of obviously corrupted power which continues to damage the UIAA image and common climbers?

    Should not UIAA return the AmerAC and certain other primary Council members to the equality of the General Assembly delegates, who must therefore rely on the reasoning of their suggestions, rather than their Council power, for open debate and votes by the voting members?

    Ignorant people must rely on organizational power, while commonly intelligent people can rely on the reasoning of their openly questioned suggestions and requests. Did you want to be among ignorant people, or among commonly intelligent people, if your reasoning can support your goals? Are not humans of their reasoning ability? What are your answers?

    Shall UIAA be defined as ignorant people reliant upon the raw power that ignorant AmerAC leaders so incessantly crave, or as intelligent people whose proposals are sufficiently reasoned that they can prevail against the open questioning of all climbers, and thus gain more support? What is your answer, for the world to consider?

    Without the Council, UIAA decisions would be made by its members in the General Assembly, a forum in which the AmerAC money does not retain the influence it creates in the smaller Council.

    Might this be a good time to inform the recognizably corrupted AmerAC, which obviously does not represent the common climbers in the US, that its openly revealed monetary influence in UIAA is no longer beneficial to UIAA or its public image?

    Has not Bill Putnam’s openly published threat to no longer send money to UIAA, if UIAA does not maintain the AmerAC’s demonstrated source of corrupted power over common climbers (the UIAA Council), defined yet greater and lasting reason for international climbers to hold the American Alpine Club controlled UIAA in further contempt?

    Well? What is your answer? What is the answer of the common climbers?

    UIAA leaders and international climbers can now therefore openly laugh at the American Alpine Club, because it cannot possibly quit UIAA. The AmerAC corruption, insatiable ego and dependence on institutional power, rather than reasoning, has trapped it. All power is self defeating.

    And the AmerAC annual dues payment is the money being discussed unless the possibility of bribes comes forward for a full investigation of UIAA’s and AmerAC’s monetary activities.

    The reason the AmerAC cannot quit UIAA: If the American Alpine Club quits UIAA, the Alaskan Alpine Club would become the voting US member in UIAA. Upon reading the sentence, all climbers laugh robustly.
    The AmerAC’s unmitigated hatred for the AknAC, because the AknAC represents actual climber interests rather than the AmerAC’s government source of power, and the AmerAC’s absolute addiction to power, trap the AmerAC. Power is always self defeating, much to the amusement of people who are sufficiently intelligent to use reasoning rather than power.

    The AmerAC verifiably represents the US National Park Service and other government agencies unlawfully taxing and denying rights to local and visiting climbers in the US. The corrupted AmerAC is dependent upon its power-based associations, such as UIAA, and on perpetually fooling its members.

    The AmerAC references its UIAA membership to impress the Park Service. The Park Services references the AmerAC’s UIAA membership, and the Park Service personnel within the AmerAC, to impress other government agencies. These are children impressing each other with who they know, with what titles, in what organizations. The inherently corrupted governmental money flow is the controlling issue. They are playing the usual petty power game, at cost of climber money and rights. It is just normal organizational and governmental corruption among immature egotists.

    Without its illusions of institutional power, including its UIAA membership, the actions of the AmerAC leaders are more susceptible to questions by AmerAC members. The AmerAC leaders cannot survive any effective questioning.

    The raw ego of the AmerAC leaders, and their contempt for common climbers, preclude them from surrendering their functionally useless but ego gratifying UIAA vote, especially to the AknAC. UIAA leaders can laugh at any AmerAC threat to stop sending dues money to UIAA.

    Even these words, distributed to the AmerAC leaders and members, which some people might interpret as challenging AmerAC to quit UIAA, make the AmerAC more dependent upon keeping its UIAA membership, to not fail an AknAC challenge. Imagine our laughter. Using power to trammel the rights of common people, is always self defeating.

    Because the AmerAC’s threat to stop sending money to UIAA has exposed possible monetary corruption, UIAA holds additional grounds to rescind the membership of the AmerAC, and can therefore inform the AmerAC that any reduction of AmerAC support for UIAA might start the process to rescind that membership. Power is always self defeating.

    Is not competition therefore again revealed as beneficial? Imagine how much more arrogant the AmerAC would be toward the UIAA leadership and other UIAA members if its corruption had not previously created the incentive for Alaska climbers to form the Alaskan Alpine Club? The Alaska club was formed to defend the rights of Alaska climbers from the AmerAC/Park Service attacks on climber rights, and to therefore openly discuss the AmerAC corruption?

    The AmerAC and Park Service are dependent upon power and deception. They cannot tolerate more effective AknAC representation of actual US climber issues in UIAA. Why are international climbers paying 200 dollars each, to the most wealthy and corrupt government in the world, to climb Denali, when that tax is unlawfully imposed, if not because the AmerAC keeps UIAA members fooled with lies? The Park Service regulations and fees, especially related to guiding permits, that cost US and international climbers a lot of money, and funnel millions of dollars to certain wealthy people with influence in the AmerAC, are not lawful under prevailing law, and are maintained on rhetorical ruses that cannot survive effective international questioning. The process of effective questioning is what corrupted organizations most fear. It was effective questioning of the Park Service, on record, that caused the Park Service to jail me for a week, in their attempt to intimidate me, much to my amusement.

    Power is always ultimately self-defeating. Shall UIAA belatedly extract itself from association with AmerAC corruption, to therefore benefit actual climbers, or shall it cling to AmerAC money until the inherent collapse of the AmerAC more greatly damages UIAA’s reputation among international climbers? Rightfully imagine the laughter of the common climbers who recognize that the question reveals the controlling result, regardless of the interval.

    Because the AmerAC openly plays on UIAA’s desperate addiction to money, if the AmerAC quits UIAA, or UIAA rescinds AmerAC membership for obvious cause, the AknAC hereby openly offers to double its annual dues payments, as a contribution, and will assist with other money raising projects. We are sending this email to the AmerAC boys, and laughing.

    Because the AknAC has no interest in acquiring power, or any illusion of it, if UIAA wisely rescinds the AmerAC’s UIAA membership for cause, the AknAC would help form a new US mountain climbing organization that represents the actual interests of climbers, so it can become the permanent UIAA voting member. (AmerAC leaders need not apply.) The AknAC is not interested in that permanent position, and has more interest in climbing mountains in Alaska, if you can imagine such a thing for mountain climbers. The voting rights in UIAA are inconsequential and craved only by egotists.

    It is the reasoning itself that identifies the intelligence of those who present their reasoning. Any subsequent majority rule vote does not alter the reasoning and thus the display of intelligence. A thousand people who use raw power of majority rule or Park Service guns to defy the manifestation of one person’s reasoning that prevails against all questions, only illuminate the ignorance of the thousand people, and their power is ultimately doomed. The government power to seize the money of climbers, and force them to grovel through paperwork processes before they are allowed to walk up public mountains, is only that, and defines the ignorance of the government people with power. Is not the ignorance of such people amusing? Would you and other commonly intelligent people not wisely place yourself among those who use reasoning, to define yourself?

    The American Alpine Club embarrasses both UIAA and American climbers. It’s political actions, not fully discussed among its members, verifiable with the questions its leaders evade, reveals the AmerAC as the most anti-climbing citizen organization in the world. Bring forward any who would object. I will ask the questions to prove their ignorance.

    The AmerAC will eventually collapse. Power is self defeating, sooner when it attempts to use more power to defy the discussion of its corruption (contradictions). In the meantime, commonly thinking people laugh at those whom power fools.

    UIAA leaders and delegates might belatedly recognize the advantages of representing actual climber interests, to benefit climbers, rather than illusions of UIAA power used to flatter UIAA leadership egos. Among other examples, as the then new Executive Director of the Alaska Sportsmens Council, I intentionally caused the corrupted US National Wildlife Federation to rescind the membership of the Alaska Sportsmen’s Council, by openly questioning the Federation corruption, much to my amusement. The Wildlife Federation could not tolerate member discussion of its leadership corruption, because the discussion could end the corruption upon which the leaders became dependent. As a result, the AkSport Council membership promptly went from 4 member organizations to 60 member organizations, and financial donations dramatically increased. The AkSport Council had slowly declined because of its membership in a recognizably corrupted organization, to which the AkSport Council had clung for an image of power. Not recognized by corrupt organization leaders who surround themselves with equally dishonest people flattering each other, the common people recognize and support honesty if it becomes available. There are other examples. Look at the membership of the AmerAC, and ask questions. When UIAA belatedly rescinds the membership of AmerAC that stagnates US mountain climber support for UIAA and a US national mountaineering organization, UIAA will advance. Corrupted power stagnates organizations. Common people, such as common climbers, recognize the glaring corruption and contradictions of egotistical, self-flattering organization leaders who inherently do not recognize their corruption. You can identify your corruption by actually answering the questions that common people ask about your corruption.

    At the inherent end of the game, for your decisions now, if you are a mountain climber, would you rather be among the highly titled, self flattering UIAA leaders who helped the highly titled, self flattering Bill Putnam and his AmerAC cronies force those common mountain climbers to pay a 200 tax to armed government thugs, for the right to climb Denali (with the money going to the US General Fund to buy more bombs to bomb more countries), etceteras, or would you rather be the common climber who objected to such repugnant dishonesty of petty egotists, and who stood in public to ask this question? Use your answer. Bill and Bob have.


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