16 related routes

Roaring Forties WI 5

Route next of Bags and Thoughts (red line)

Yellow line in the topos

start with some mix moves (2 cams green and purple BD, possible to use the yellow higher up) then a series of icicle with a little roof to cross. All the way to the top of the ice blob. V-thread to rappel

FF Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024 20m WI5 M6

New Born WI 2

Easy gully on the extreme left (East) part of Hlaðhamrar

Going up the main gully to access to A1 the route is the gully and little higher then the ledge to access the other routes

FF Julian O’Neil and Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024

Bags and thoughts M 8

Bolted route that can be climbed full dry or with some ice on the lower part and the top but with dry moves in the middle.

Follows and open corner to get to a little roof part then a crack on the upper part , finishing with a tricky slab. Anchor on the edge of the wall (20m)

Possible to keep going all the way up the cliff on ice. Bolted anchor on the top 40m from ground

between Falki A8 and Lundi A9. Red line in the topos

bolted by Matteo Meucci 2019

FF Matteo Meucci 03/12/2023

Ávangur WI 3+

Leið númer A11a.

Leiðin er á sama ísstefni og A11, Hollow Wall, nema alveg fremst á því á meðan Hollow Wall fer upp kverkina vinstra megin.

WI 3+, 40m.

Fyrsti landnámsmaðurinn í Botnsdal var írskur, Ávangur að nafni. Bær hans gæti hafa verið þar sem nú eru rústir Holukots.

FF: Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Matteo Meucci, 9. apríl 2020

Hlaðhamrar Gully WI 3+

Route number A12.

Tight gully with a few mix moves.

FA: Matteo Meucci og Kristinn & Sigurjónsson, WI 3+, 30m

Hollow Wall WI 4

Route number A11.

Short vertical wall at the start but gets easier as you go higher.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Kristinn og Sigurjónsson, WI 4, 30m

Hidden Corner WI 3

Route number A10.

Nice arette with mixed climbing at the end.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Kristinn Sigurjónsson, February 2017, WI 3, 30m

Lundi WI 4+

Route number A9.

Nice line on a overhanging arete. Hard start leads up to an easy mid section and then to a steep final section.

FF: Bjartur Týr, Jón Gauti og Matteo, nóvember 2017, WI 4+, 35m

Fálki WI 3

Route number A8.

Narrow line in a small gully.

FA: Jón Gauti, Matteo & Bjartur Týr, November 2017, WI 3, 30m

Hvítir hrafnar WI 4

Route number A7.

Cool line in nice surroundings. Offers a harder variant up a pillar to the right og an easy mix route to the left that leads into easy ice climbing. The day it was climbed, two rarely spotted ice climbers were seen at the carpark.

FA: Bjartur Týr, Jónas G. & Mike Reid, December 2017, WI 4, 40m

Í kjólinn fyrir jólin WI 3

Route number A5.

The route up the middle of the ice wall, that has the least resistance. Fun rock blocks at the start that offer some interesting moves.

FA: Mike Reid, Bjartur Týr & Jónas G. December 2017, WI 3, 35m

Þriðjudagstilboð WI 3+

Route number A4.

Short an nice route. This area is often full of “umbrella” formation and this line weaves between them. Can probably be WI 3 if the umbrellas form in a different way.

FA: Jónas G. Bjartur Týr & Michael Reid, December 2017, WI 3+

Músarindill WI 4

Route number A1.

Easy ramp at the start that leads to a short but steep pillar at the top.

FA: Matteo Meucci, Bjartur Týr & Jón Gauti, November 2017, WI 4, 30m

Veðmálið WI 3

Route number A6.

FA. is unknown but has most likely been climbed

If anyone has any info on climbing in this sector before 22.11.16, it would be appricieted to send info to the Icelandic alpineclub.


WW3 WI 3

Route number A3

climbed for the first time (in a while?) shortly after the american presidential election

FA. is unknown but has most likely been climbed

If anyone has any info on climbing in this sector before 22.11.16, it would be appricieted to send info to the Icelandic alpineclub.



I love backup WI 3

Route number A2.

The route that is currently most to the left.

FA. is unknown but it is assumed that this wall has been climbed before.

If anyone has any info on climbing there before 22.11.16, if would be appriciated to send the info to the Icelandic alpine club.


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