Looking for help (from the UK)

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    Rob Edwards


    Apologies as I cannot speak Icelandic, so I must ask in English.

    I am coming to Iceland the 12th – 15th March and would like to go out ice climbing on the 13th or 14th. I will be staying in Reykjavik in a hostel and will be bringing my axes and crampons but not a rope or ice screws as I don’t think I’ll be able to fit everything.

    I am hoping to get some advice as to where I could find some easy WI 1/2 climbs close to Reykjavik, if possible.

    I’d ideally like to find someone to climb with on here and I can bring some extra stuff and if anyone is interested I can climb up to WI 4/5 on a top rope and 3/4 on a lead (probably 3, as I’ve not climbed this year yet!)

    Thank’s for any help given. When are you guys getting a guide book!?! 😉

    Siggi Richter

    Hey Rob

    I hope you‘ll find someone to climb with, I´m at the moment writing this in Denmark, so I unfortunately won‘t be able to join.
    I also don‘t know how the conditions are at home (I guess someone else can give you a good update), but the forecast is looking good.

    But regarding the easier WI1/2 climbs, I would recommend checking out these areas:

    These are the closest to Reykjavík, but most of them are longer alpine routes. But you can check out areas E, F and J, there are shorter routes with short approaches, but they aren‘t always in condition.

    Múlafjall is most often in conditions, with a lot of ice facing north. Although there aren‘t many routes logged below WI3, it‘s easy to find small sections and gullies with easy ice (The approach is pretty short, but annoying)

    If you are lucky with conditions, I would definitely recommend this valley. Although since it‘s pretty low and it‘s already March, I wouldn‘t count on it being in conditions, but if it is, then it‘s littered with nice easy ice routes with short approaches.

    If none of these work, then you can give this area a try, the routes are a bit scattered and can be hard to spot from the road, but some of them are classics.

    I hope that helps if you don‘t find a climbing partner.

    And the guidebook is still in the brainstorming process 😉

    Rob Edwards

    THanks for the info! That was very in depth and helpful. Where should I look for weather updates for mountain areas? Is it normal to go out in rough weather a la Scotland or steer clear if there’s even a slight breeze?

    I’m likely to get out tomorrow or (more likely) Wednesday if the weather is right. Hoping to hire crampons and axes from viking adventure and run up some easy stuff at esja hopefully.

    Thanks again!

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