{"id":63748,"date":"2017-10-26T15:02:00","date_gmt":"2017-10-26T15:02:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/?p=63748"},"modified":"2021-08-29T11:42:28","modified_gmt":"2021-08-29T11:42:28","slug":"bifrost-iii-5-9-220m","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/problem\/bifrost-iii-5-9-220m","title":{"rendered":"Bifr\u00f6st, III 5.9 220m"},"content":{"rendered":"

Lei\u00f0in liggur upp klettahrygg undir h\u00f6fu\u00f0vegg Kambhorns.<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. sp\u00f6nn: 5.6, 20m, 5 boltar<\/li>\n
  2. sp\u00f6nn: 5.5, 30m, 5 boltar<\/li>\n
  3. sp\u00f6nn: 5.7, 20m, 8 boltar<\/li>\n
  4. sp\u00f6nn: 5.9, 50m, 10 boltar<\/li>\n
  5. sp\u00f6nn: 50m \u00f3boltu\u00f0 tengisp\u00f6nn<\/li>\n
  6. sp\u00f6nn: 5.7, 50m, 8 boltar<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Vi\u00f0 frumfer\u00f0 var lei\u00f0in a\u00f0 st\u00f3rum hluta blaut og r\u00f6k og eru \u00fev\u00ed g\u00f3\u00f0ar l\u00edkur \u00e1 a\u00f0 gr\u00e1\u00f0urnar s\u00e9u ekki alveg r\u00e9ttar og \u00e6tti a\u00f0 taka \u00feeim me\u00f0 fyrirvara.<\/p>\n

    Lei\u00f0arl\u00fdsing: Lei\u00f0in b\u00fd\u00f0ur upp \u00e1 alv\u00f6ru fjallaklifurf\u00edling og reynir oft meira \u00e1 \u00fatsj\u00f3narsemi og vandvirka f\u00f3tavinnu heldur en a\u00f0 toga fast. Lei\u00f0in einkennist af bl\u00f6ndu\u00f0u klifri \u00fear sem brattari kaflar og mosagr\u00f3nar syllur skiptast \u00e1. Lei\u00f0in er fullboltu\u00f0 og var hreinsu\u00f0 eftir bestu getu en \u00fe\u00f3 geta enn veri\u00f0 lausir steinar og grip sem klifrarar skulu vera vakandi fyrir.<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. sp\u00f6nn hefst \u00e1 hli\u00f0run til h\u00e6gri eftir st\u00f6llum. H\u00e9r geta veri\u00f0 laus grip \u00ed byrjun, s\u00e9rstaklega ef hli\u00f0ra\u00f0 er of ofarlega. Vi\u00f0 fj\u00f3r\u00f0a bolta er h\u00e6tt a\u00f0 hli\u00f0ra og klifi\u00f0 beint \u00ed g\u00f3\u00f0u bergi upp uns komi\u00f0 er upp \u00e1 mosagr\u00f3na syllu. \u00dea\u00f0an er gengi\u00f0 inn a\u00f0 lj\u00f3sum kletti \u00ed stans.<\/li>\n
    2. \u00dar stansi er hli\u00f0ra\u00f0 til h\u00e6gri og fari\u00f0 upp \u00e1 litla syllu. Athugi\u00f0 a\u00f0 h\u00e9r var\/er F\u00fdlshrei\u00f0ur. Af syllunni er klifra\u00f0 upp stuttan en brattan vegg \u00e1 g\u00f3\u00f0um gripum sem ver\u00f0ur svo afl\u00ed\u00f0andi og endar \u00e1 stuttri mosagr\u00f3inni syllu. Af henni er gengi\u00f0 inn a\u00f0 stuttu hafti og eftir \u00fea\u00f0 tekur vi\u00f0 \u00fe\u00e6gilegur stans.<\/li>\n
    3. Jafnv\u00e6gisklifur beint af augum upp \u00far stansi \u00fear til komi\u00f0 er a\u00f0 l\u00edtilli syllu. \u00dea\u00f0an er fari\u00f0 upp h\u00e6gra megin, upp a\u00f0 syllu sem \u00e1 hv\u00edla nokkrir steinar sem sitja fastir undir mikli bjargi \u00fear \u00e1 syllunni. Klifi\u00f0 upp \u00e1 \u00fe\u00e1 syllu vistra megin vi\u00f0 bjargi\u00f0 og upp \u00e1 \u00fea\u00f0. \u00dea\u00f0an er komi\u00f0 \u00e1 litla syllu \u00fear sem vi\u00f0 stutt haft (2m) \u00ed l\u00e9legu bergi \u00fear sem f\u00e1tt er um t\u00f6k og reynir \u00e1 jafnv\u00e6gisk\u00fanstir. \u00dea\u00f0an er gengi\u00f0 inn a\u00f0 stansi.<\/li>\n
    4. Sp\u00f6nnin er \u00fer\u00edskipt og ver\u00f0ur m\u00f6gulega settur inn stans eftir brattasta kaflann. Klifi\u00f0 upp um 15m brattan vegg \u00fear sem reynir jafnt \u00e1 kraft, jafnv\u00e6gi og f\u00f3tavinnu. \u00dar honum er komi\u00f0 upp \u00e1 litla syllu og eftir \u00fea\u00f0 l\u00e9ttist klifri\u00f0 til muna (5.3-5.4) en bergg\u00e6\u00f0in minnka einnig. Af \u00feessum s\u00f6kum er talsvert lengra milli bolta, en gott berg til boltunar fannst a\u00f0eins \u00e1 \u00f6rf\u00e1um st\u00f6\u00f0um. Klifi\u00f0 er nokku\u00f0 beint af augum um 20m og loks eru um 15m boltalausir (\u00e1g\u00e6tt til klifurst en ekki til boltunar) inn a\u00f0 stansi.<\/li>\n
    5. Gengi\u00f0 er upp mosagr\u00f3na brekku \u00far stansi og \u00fea\u00f0an hli\u00f0ra\u00f0 inn a\u00f0 loka hryggnum.<\/li>\n
    6. \u00dar stansi er klifi\u00f0 beint upp stutt haft og \u00fea\u00f0an beygt til h\u00e6gri. Lei\u00f0in eltir \u00fea\u00f0an hrygginn n\u00e1l\u00e6gt h\u00e6gri br\u00faninni \u00fear sem skiptist \u00e1 l\u00e9ttara klifur \u00ed lakara bergi og st\u00edfara klifur \u00ed betra bergi.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      A\u00f0koma:<\/strong> Fari\u00f0 upp fr\u00e1 Bretab\u00fa\u00f0unum upp brekku og undir fyrstu klettaveggina (\u00fear er Saurgat Satans \u00e1 horninu). H\u00e9\u00f0an er m\u00e6lt me\u00f0 \u00fev\u00ed a\u00f0 f\u00f3lk setji upp hj\u00e1lma. \u00dea\u00f0an er haldi\u00f0 \u00e1fram upp og til vesturs eftir grasbrekkum undir klettaveggjunum uns komi\u00f0 er fyrir horni\u00f0. \u00dea\u00f0an er haldi\u00f0 \u00e1fram upp gr\u00f3fa skri\u00f0u og hryggurinn birtist \u00fe\u00e1 flj\u00f3tlega.\u00a0 \u00dea\u00f0an geta gl\u00f6ggir fylgt (nokku\u00f0 \u00f3greinilegum) sl\u00f3\u00f0a sem liggur fyrst yfir gr\u00f3fa skri\u00f0u og \u00fea\u00f0an \u00ed hlykkjum upp heldur fastari skri\u00f0u (\u00fe\u00e1 r\u00e9tt vestan vi\u00f0 hrygginn). A\u00f0 endingu er hli\u00f0ra\u00f0 til austurs inn a\u00f0 ne\u00f0sta hluta hryggjarins. Nokkrar litlar v\u00f6r\u00f0ur eru \u00e1 lei\u00f0inni. \u00c1\u00e6tla\u00f0ur uppg\u00f6ngut\u00edmi er um 30-45m\u00edn.<\/p>\n

      Ni\u00f0urlei\u00f0:<\/strong> Athugi\u00f0 a\u00f0 h\u00e6gt er a\u00f0 ganga\/kl\u00f6ngrast \u00far \u00f6llum st\u00f6nsum til vesturs til \u00feess a\u00f0 komast \u00far lei\u00f0inni ef svo ber undir. Fr\u00e1 efsta akkeri er l\u00e9tt kl\u00f6ngur um 10m \u00fear til komi\u00f0 er \u00e1 topp hryggjarins sem er \u00e1valur malarhryggur. \u00dea\u00f0an er fari\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur til vinstri (inn a\u00f0 st\u00f3ru veggjunum) og ni\u00f0ur frekar lausar og varasamar skri\u00f0ur. M\u00e6lt er me\u00f0 \u00fev\u00ed a\u00f0 fikra sig flj\u00f3tlega \u00ed vestur \u00fear sem skri\u00f0urnar eru fastari og \u00fea\u00f0an er komi\u00f0 inn \u00e1 s\u00f6mu lei\u00f0 og l\u00fdst var til uppg\u00f6ngu.<\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.Lei\u00f0in liggur upp klettahrygg undir h\u00f6fu\u00f0vegg Kambhorns. sp\u00f6nn: 5.6, 25m, 5 boltar sp\u00f6nn: 5.5, 30m, 5 boltar sp\u00f6nn: 5.7, 30m, 8 boltar sp\u00f6nn: […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":22950,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/63748"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/22950"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=63748"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/63748\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":75958,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/63748\/revisions\/75958"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=63748"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=63748"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=63748"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}