{"id":63257,"date":"2017-05-05T12:53:18","date_gmt":"2017-05-05T12:53:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/?p=63257"},"modified":"2020-09-01T23:54:38","modified_gmt":"2020-09-01T23:54:38","slug":"thumall-klassiska-leidin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/problem\/thumall-klassiska-leidin","title":{"rendered":"\u00deumall – The classic route"},"content":{"rendered":"

Tindurinn \u00deumall (1279 m) er nokku\u00f0 \u00feekktur manna \u00e1 me\u00f0al. \u00c1\u00f0ur fyrr var \u00deumall talinn \u00f3kleifur og er hann ekkert s\u00e9rstaklega \u00e1rennilegur vi\u00f0 fyrstu s\u00fdn. \u00deumallinn er bl\u00e1gr\u00fdtisdrangur sem stendur \u00ed su\u00f0urbr\u00fan Vatnaj\u00f6kuls, \u00ed svonefndum Skaftafellsfj\u00f6llum, og r\u00eds um 120 m yfir j\u00f6kulinn.<\/p>\n

\u00c1ri\u00f0 1975, \u00ed \u00e1g\u00fast, klifu \u00fer\u00edr Vestmannaeyingar \u00deumal fyrstir manna, \u00feeir Snorri Hafsteinsson, Da\u00f0i \u00c1sbj\u00f6rnsson (e\u00f0a Gar\u00f0arsson?) og Kjartan Eggertsson. N\u00e6stir til a\u00f0 kl\u00edfa tindinn voru menn \u00far Hj\u00e1lparsveit sk\u00e1ta \u00ed Reykjav\u00edk og var \u00fea\u00f0 1977, um p\u00e1ska. Fimmta heims\u00f3kn \u00e1 tindinn var \u00ed fyrsta skipti sem kvennma\u00f0ur f\u00f3r \u00e1 tindinn, en \u00ed \u00fe\u00e1 daga \u00fe\u00f3tti \u00fea\u00f0 t\u00ed\u00f0indavert a\u00f0 konur stundu\u00f0u fjallamennsku. Umr\u00e6dd kona, Vilborg Hannesd\u00f3ttir f\u00f3r \u00e1samt Birni G\u00edslasyni og R\u00f3berti Lee T\u00f3masyni \u00e1 tindinn. Vilborg b\u00e6tti um betur og og s\u00f3l\u00f3a\u00f0i alla lei\u00f0ina og t\u00f3k \u00fea\u00f0 um 50 min upp \u00e1 topp, var \u00feetta \u00ed anna\u00f0 sinn sem \u00deumall var s\u00f3l\u00f3a\u00f0ur.<\/p>\n

\u00c1ratuginn eftir a\u00f0 \u00deumall var klifinn \u00ed fyrsta sinn, \u00fe\u00f3tti miki\u00f0 afrek a\u00f0 komast upp og var hver fer\u00f0 skr\u00e1\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur vel og vandlega. N\u00fana s\u00ed\u00f0ustu \u00e1r hefur a\u00f0eins slakna\u00f0 \u00e1 \u00feessu b\u00f3khaldi, enda hefur fer\u00f0um \u00e1 \u00deumal fj\u00f6lga\u00f0 g\u00edfulega s\u00ed\u00f0an 1975.<\/p>\n

Best er a\u00f0 hefja fer\u00f0ina \u00far Skaftafelli, fr\u00e1 tjaldsv\u00e6\u00f0inu og ganga inn\u00a0\u00ed B\u00e6jarsta\u00f0ask\u00f3g \u00ed Mors\u00e1rdal og elta \u00fea\u00f0an dalinn inn \u00fear til a\u00f0 komi\u00f0 er \u00ed n\u00e6sta dal, hornr\u00e9tt \u00e1 Mors\u00e1rdal, s\u00e1 dalur gengur undir nafninu Kj\u00f3s. \u00c1berandi gil er nor\u00f0an megin \u00ed Kj\u00f3sarmynninu, Vestara-Meingil, gengi\u00f0 er upp vestanmegin vi\u00f0 \u00fea\u00f0 eftir \u00feokkalega sk\u00fdrum sl\u00f3\u00f0a. \u00dear getur veri\u00f0 nokkur h\u00e6tta \u00e1 fer\u00f0um \u00ed \u00farkomu og sl\u00e6mu skyggni, \u00fev\u00ed gili\u00f0 er hrikalegt. \u00deegar komi\u00f0 er upp \u00ed 750 m h\u00e6\u00f0 sveigir lei\u00f0in til vesturs, inn \u00ed st\u00f3ra sk\u00e1l e\u00f0a dal sem ber nafni\u00f0 Hn\u00fatudalur.<\/p>\n

Algengast er a\u00f0 \u00feegar f\u00f3lk leggur \u00e1 \u00deumal er a\u00f0 \u00fea\u00f0 gisti \u00e1 lei\u00f0inni, \u00fev\u00ed a\u00f0 gangan ein og s\u00e9r er mj\u00f6g l\u00f6ng. Teymi hafa \u00fe\u00e1 anna\u00f0 hvort gist \u00ed Kj\u00f3sarmynninu vi\u00f0 Vestara meingil, e\u00f0a \u00feau hafa gengi\u00f0 upp \u00ed Hn\u00fatudal og tjalda\u00f0 \u00fear.<\/p>\n

Fr\u00e1 Hn\u00fatudal er um 250 m br\u00f6tt h\u00e6kkun a\u00f0 \u00deumli. \u00deegar upp \u00far Hn\u00fatudal er komi\u00f0, er komi\u00f0 \u00e1 hrygg, me\u00f0 talsver\u00f0u falli ni\u00f0ur \u00e1 b\u00e1\u00f0a kanta. Fr\u00e1 hryggnum \u00a0blasir \u00deumall vi\u00f0, \u00fea\u00f0an \u00fearf a\u00f0 hli\u00f0ra yfir hli\u00f0arhalla \u00fat a\u00f0 bergtappanum sj\u00e1lfum. Snemma sumars er snj\u00f3r \u00e1 \u00feessum hli\u00f0arhalla og hli\u00f0runin \u00fev\u00ed ekki mj\u00f6g erfi\u00f0, \u00feegar snj\u00f3rinn fer hins vegar, \u00fe\u00e1 er hli\u00f0runin mj\u00f6g alvarleg! \u00dearna hefur or\u00f0i\u00f0 alvarlegt slys \u00fear sem a\u00f0 manneskja r\u00falla\u00f0i alla lei\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur. Fari\u00f0 \u00fev\u00ed me\u00f0 g\u00e1t og \u00edhugi\u00f0 a\u00f0 tryggja \u00fearna yfir, s\u00e9rstaklega ef einhverjir me\u00f0limir h\u00f3psins eru \u00f3vanir e\u00f0a \u00f3\u00f6ruggir.<\/p>\n

Eftir hli\u00f0runina \u00fearf einungis a\u00f0 r\u00f6lta undir\u00a0nor\u00f0urhli\u00f0 \u00deumals, muni\u00f0 a\u00f0 s\u00fa hli\u00f0run er \u00e1 j\u00f6kli, svo fari\u00f0 a\u00f0 g\u00e1t \u00fear, klifri\u00f0 hefst svo h\u00e6gra megin (vestan) \u00feegar horft er \u00e1 \u00deumal fr\u00e1 nor\u00f0urhli\u00f0inni.<\/p>\n

Eftirfarandi lei\u00f0al\u00fdsing er \u00far Lei\u00f0av\u00edsi \u00cdsap nr 14.<\/a>\u00a0Gr\u00e1\u00f0urnar eru \u00ed UIAA gr\u00e1\u00f0ukerfinu, sem m\u00e1 lesa um h\u00e9r<\/a>, en erfi\u00f0asta sp\u00f6nnin jafnast \u00e1 vi\u00f0 5.5 e\u00f0a 5.6 \u00ed Hnappavallaklifri:<\/p>\n

L\u00f3\u00f0r\u00e9tt h\u00e6kkun: 120 m.
\nGr\u00e1\u00f0a: III (IV efst ef vill).
\nT\u00edmi: 2-3 klst.<\/p>\n

Fyrst er fari\u00f0 upp lausa st\u00f3rgr\u00fdtta skri\u00f0u (II). S\u00ed\u00f0an er komi\u00f0 a\u00f0 l\u00e1gu hafti (III), fari\u00f0 upp \u00fear til glufa opnast milli fl\u00f6gunar og tindsins. \u00c1fram er haldi\u00f0 inn \u00ed glufuna (Skorsteininn) og kl\u00f6ngrast upp hana (III). \u00deegar komi\u00f0 er \u00fear sem glufan opnast og \u00fats\u00fdni til su\u00f0vestur birtist er haldi\u00f0 \u00fat \u00ed su\u00f0vesturhluta \u00deumals. Fylgi\u00f0 hryggnum e\u00f0a \u00fear vi\u00f0, \u00a0beint upp (laust \u00ed s\u00e9r). Komi\u00f0 er a\u00f0 hafti (IV), fari\u00f0 upp \u00fea\u00f0 e\u00f0a snei\u00f0i\u00f0 hj\u00e1 til h\u00e6gri og kr\u00e6ki\u00f0 fyrir (mj\u00f6g laust). \u00deegar komi\u00f0 er upp fyrir hafti\u00f0 blasir h\u00e1hryggur \u00deumals vi\u00f0. Br\u00f6lti\u00f0 eftir honum og upp. Tindur \u00deumals r\u00famar ekki marga \u00ed einu. H\u00e1hryggurinn er mj\u00f6g laus \u00ed s\u00e9r og engar almennilegar tryggingar. S\u00edgi\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur s\u00f6mu lei\u00f0.<\/p>\n

Lei\u00f0arl\u00fdsing \u00e1 hverri sp\u00f6nn og siginu fr\u00e1 Gunnar M\u00e1, 2020:<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 1<\/strong><\/p>\n

Byrjar upp lj\u00f3st slabb og svo br\u00f6lt yfir mj\u00f6g laust grj\u00f3t. Mikil h\u00e6tta \u00e1 grj\u00f3thruni fyrir \u00feann sem tryggir. Eftir 15-20m er akkeri (fleygur og hneta) en betra a\u00f0 halda \u00e1fram upp a\u00f0 hafti. \u00dear er g\u00f3\u00f0ur millistans, 3 fleygar. (45m ca)<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 2<\/strong><\/p>\n

Byrjar upp brattann stromp en svo tekur vi\u00f0 br\u00f6lt upp skri\u00f0ur beint upp a\u00f0 h\u00e1um vegg. \u00dear er beygt til h\u00e6gri inn \u00ed sj\u00e1lfa skoruna og upp \u00e1 flatan kafla \u00ed millistans nr 2 (fleygar og hneta) (40m) 5.5 hreyfingar \u00ed byrjun en svo bara br\u00f6lt.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 3<\/strong><\/p>\n

Upp \u00far skorunni og upp \u00e1 SV hli\u00f0 \u00deumals. \u00dear tekur vi\u00f0 l\u00e9tt klifur upp stalla svo til h\u00e6gri upp \u00e1 hrygg. Vinstra megin \u00e1 hryggnum er millistans. 3 fleygar (40m)<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 4<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00cd \u00feessari sp\u00f6nn eru \u00ed raun tveir m\u00f6guleikar: H\u00e6gt a\u00f0 fara beint upp hrygginn og klifra upp bratta sprungu e\u00f0a taka beygju til h\u00e6gri fyrir horn og \u00fea\u00f0an upp \u00ed millistans. \u00dea\u00f0an s\u00e9st sj\u00e1lfur bl\u00e1toppurinn vel. Hann r\u00famar bara 1 \u00ed einu. (40m) e\u00f0a (20 + 20)<\/p>\n

Fr\u00e1 fj\u00f3r\u00f0a millistans er t\u00e6pur hryggur upp \u00e1 topp og \u00fev\u00ed sj\u00e1lfsagt a\u00f0 tryggja \u00feann kafla einnig og m\u00e1 jafnvel segja a\u00f0 \u00fea\u00f0 s\u00e9 fimmta sp\u00f6nnin. Vi\u00f0 sendum einn \u00ed einu upp \u00e1 topp.<\/p>\n

Sigi\u00f0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sigi\u00f0 t\u00f3k d\u00e1g\u00f3\u00f0an t\u00edma m.a. \u00fear sem \u00f6nnur klifurl\u00ednan okkar skemmdist \u00ed tv\u00edgang \u00e1 lei\u00f0inni upp \u00feurftum vi\u00f0 \u00fev\u00ed nokkrum sinnum a\u00f0 s\u00edga yfir hn\u00fat. Vi\u00f0 m\u00e6lum annars me\u00f0 \u00fev\u00ed a\u00f0 s\u00edga \u00far skorunni \u00e1 einni 60m l\u00ednu ni\u00f0ur \u00ed akkeri \u00e1 beina veggnum vi\u00f0 endann \u00e1 skorunni \u00fev\u00ed okkur fannst l\u00edklegt a\u00f0 hn\u00fatur myndi festast \u00ed skorunni og \u00fea\u00f0an ni\u00f0ur aftur \u00e1 einni l\u00ednu ni\u00f0ur bratta strompinn (beint fyrir ne\u00f0an akkeri) og loks alla lei\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur \u00e1 tveimur l\u00ednum.<\/p>\n

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