{"id":61139,"date":"2016-02-28T10:45:22","date_gmt":"2016-02-28T10:45:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/?p=61139"},"modified":"2016-03-14T13:39:14","modified_gmt":"2016-03-14T13:39:14","slug":"bulandstindur-austurveggur","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/problem\/bulandstindur-austurveggur","title":{"rendered":"B\u00falandstindur Austurveggur"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic<\/a>. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.<\/p>

Austurveggurinn \u00e1 B\u00falandstindi (1069m) vi\u00f0 Berufj\u00f6r\u00f0 var klifra\u00f0ur 20. febr\u00faar 2016.
\nOkkur vitanlega er \u00feetta frumfer\u00f0in upp vegginn en vita\u00f0 er um eitt teymi sem f\u00f3r ca. h\u00e1lfa lei\u00f0 upp fyrir 6 \u00e1rum en \u00f3v\u00edst hvort a\u00f0rir hafi reynt fyrr e\u00f0a s\u00ed\u00f0ar.<\/p>\n

A-veggurinn r\u00eds n\u00e1nast beint \u00far s\u00e6 og b\u00fd\u00f0ur \u00fev\u00ed upp \u00e1 einn af h\u00e6stu (samfelldu) br\u00f6ttu fjallaveggjum landsins.
\n\u00dea\u00f0 eru \u00ferj\u00e1r megin-l\u00ednur upp vegginn og f\u00f3rum vi\u00f0 mi\u00f0jul\u00ednuna.
\n\u00c1 myndinni s\u00e9st ca. hvernig vi\u00f0 \u00fer\u00e6ddum upp megin \u00eds\u00feilin og eltum svo \u00edsbunka og klettarif milli snj\u00f3klifurkaflanna.<\/p>\n

Lei\u00f0in byrja\u00f0i \u00ed hressandi WI5+ hafti, \u00fev\u00ed skeggi\u00f0 n\u00e1\u00f0i ekki alveg ni\u00f0ur en annars var erfi\u00f0leiki \u00edshaftanna yfirleitt ekki meira en WI4-5.
\nAlpaklifurh\u00f6ftin voru missn\u00fain – flest frekar \u00fe\u00e6gileg me\u00f0 plasteru\u00f0um \u00eds utan \u00e1, en \u00feau ur\u00f0u tortrygg\u00f0ari eftir \u00fev\u00ed sem ofar dr\u00f3 og \u00ed restina var \u00feetta n\u00e1nast \u00f3tryggjanlegt (og sketchy klifur \u00ed \u00feokkab\u00f3t).<\/p>\n

F\u00f3rum fyrri partinn \u00ed hef\u00f0bundnu \u00edsklifri (“pitched”) \u00a0en f\u00e6r\u00f0um okkur svo yfir \u00ed simul-klifur me\u00f0 einstaka hafti “pitched” \u00feegar ofar dr\u00f3.
\n1. sp\u00f6nn – 70m WI5+ byrjunarhaft og WI4\/5 eftir \u00fea\u00f0 me\u00f0 snj\u00f3stalli \u00e1 milli.
\n2. sp\u00f6nn – 70m WI3\/4 tengisp\u00f6nn. Snj\u00f3stallur me\u00f0 stuttu en sketchy \u00feunnu \u00edshafti. Hli\u00f0ra\u00f0 um 30m til h\u00e6gri inn a\u00f0 megin \u00eds\u00feilinu.
\n3. sp\u00f6nn – 60-70m WI4+ \u00ed \u00feunnum \u00eds \u00ed skemmtilegri rennu.
\n4. sp\u00f6nn – 60-70m WI4\/5 \u00ed \u00feykkari en brattari \u00eds (tv\u00f6 h\u00f6ft).
\nH\u00e9r skiptum vi\u00f0 svo yfir \u00ed simul-klifur og trygg\u00f0um \u00ed bland \u00ed \u00eds, snj\u00f3 og grj\u00f3t (skr\u00fafur, snj\u00f3h\u00e6lar, hnetur og fleygar).
\nN\u00f3g af \u00edsbunkum framan af nema \u00feegar vi\u00f0 \u00e1ttum ca. 1\/4 eftir, \u00fe\u00e1 var or\u00f0i\u00f0 minna frambo\u00f0 og alvarleikinn or\u00f0inn \u00feeim mun meiri…<\/p>\n

Vinstri megin l\u00ednan vir\u00f0ist vera af svipu\u00f0um kal\u00edber og okkar l\u00edna en h\u00e6gri l\u00ednan er verulega miki\u00f0 erfi\u00f0ari, WI6 jafnvel…<\/p>\n

Skr\u00e1i lei\u00f0ina sem WI5, \u00fev\u00ed WI5+ d\u00e6mi\u00f0\u00a0var bara fyrstu 5m og \u00ed meiri \u00eds v\u00e6ri fyrsta hafti\u00f0 eflaust bara WI4+ e\u00f0a WI5.<\/p>\n

Fyrst farin: 20. febr\u00faar 2016, Sigur\u00f0ur T\u00f3mas \u00de\u00f3risson og R\u00f3bert Halld\u00f3rsson<\/p>\n

Myndr\u00e6na fer\u00f0as\u00f6gu m\u00e1 sj\u00e1 h\u00e9r<\/a>.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.Austurveggurinn \u00e1 B\u00falandstindi (1069m) vi\u00f0 Berufj\u00f6r\u00f0 var klifra\u00f0ur 20. febr\u00faar 2016. Okkur vitanlega er \u00feetta frumfer\u00f0in upp vegginn en vita\u00f0 er um eitt […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":22160,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61139"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/22160"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=61139"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61139\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":61296,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61139\/revisions\/61296"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=61139"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=61139"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=61139"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}