{"id":58564,"date":"2015-09-15T04:09:33","date_gmt":"2015-09-15T04:09:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/?p=58564"},"modified":"2018-03-20T15:40:44","modified_gmt":"2018-03-20T15:40:44","slug":"brennivin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/problem\/brennivin","title":{"rendered":"Brenniv\u00edn"},"content":{"rendered":"

Route no. 14 on the picture.<\/p>\n

This is the hardest mix-climbing route in Iceland and at the time of the first accent it was the hardest mix route in the world with the second hardest being M8. There for Will graded the route M9+ with the remark that it might be harder. He has now confirmed the grade M11 and the route being a lot harder than any M10 of the same era. Brenniv\u00edn is also one of the first spray ice routes in the world.<\/p>\n

Gu\u00f0mundur Helgi wrote the following in the 1998 edition of the \u00cdsalp\u00a0magazine<\/p>\n

I don’t know how many tries it took over those four days, but it was a lot before success. Never before did he need such a long time or power to send a route, bruised and scraped with a broken nose and a smile all the way to the back of his head. Who is that man? Yes, Will Gadd, a Canadian living in the States that came here along with his soon to be fianc\u00e9, Kim Cizmagia, and a photographer in the mission of finding and sending the hardest mix climbing route in the world. Did they succeed? That will other people have to judge but the route is called Brenniv\u00edn like the deadly Icelandic snaps like Will phrased it. The route is about 50m and is climbed as a single pitch, at the end of Sk\u00e1lagil canyon in Haukadalur in Dalas\u00fdsla. The first 15-20m are a freestanding pillar under a rocky roof that is 6m total but the cimb to the edge is 4m. The hard part is not over yet because from the edge, the crux is to traverse the edge to a sizable pice of ice to be able to climb to the top. In the later section the ice is quite thin and a little bit overhanging. In the only accent Will had to climb half of the way from the edge of the roof and to the top before managing to place a nice protection. The roof and the traverse have four bolts for protection.<\/p>\n

First accent:\u00a0Will Gadd, Kim Csizmazia and\u00a0Gu\u00f0mundur Helgi Christensen, 28. March 1998.<\/p>\n