{"id":43893,"date":"2015-09-03T23:30:40","date_gmt":"2015-09-03T23:30:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/?p=43893"},"modified":"2020-11-04T13:18:55","modified_gmt":"2020-11-04T13:18:55","slug":"heljaregg","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/problem\/heljaregg","title":{"rendered":"Heljaregg"},"content":{"rendered":"

Lei\u00f0 n\u00famer 5<\/p>\n

Heljaregg Vesturbr\u00fanir Esju \u2013 5.6 \u2013 435 metrar \u2013 trad<\/strong><\/p>\n

Falleg klettalei\u00f0 upp greinilega egg sem endar \u00ed klettan\u00e1l og \u00fea\u00f0an upp \u00e1 \u00f6xlina. Nokkrir boltar eru \u00ed lei\u00f0inni fyrir meginakkeri og \u00e1 tortrygg\u00f0um st\u00f6\u00f0um. Lei\u00f0 nr. 5 \u00e1 mynd.<\/p>\n

FF<\/strong>.: J\u00f3n Geirsson og Sn\u00e6varr Gu\u00f0mundsson, 17. n\u00f3v 1984<\/p>\n

A\u00f0koma<\/strong>: Lagt er vi\u00f0 Skrauth\u00f3la \u00e1 Kjalarnesi og gengi\u00f0 upp a\u00f0 Vesturbr\u00fanum \u00fea\u00f0an. \u00dea\u00f0 liggur sl\u00f3\u00f0i upp \u00ed gegnum t\u00fani\u00f0 sem gott er a\u00f0 ganga upp fyrir gir\u00f0ingu og setja svo stefnuna \u00fea\u00f0an \u00e1 Heljaregg.<\/p>\n

Tryggingar<\/strong>: Tryggt me\u00f0 d\u00f3ti. Boltar og akkeri \u00e1 illtryggjanlegum st\u00f6\u00f0um.<\/p>\n

B\u00fana\u00f0ur<\/strong>: Vinasett, hnetusett og tvistar \u00ed bolta. \u00de\u00e6gilega klifursk\u00f3 og a\u00f0komusk\u00f3 e\u00f0a jafnvel h\u00e1lfst\u00edfa g\u00f6ngusk\u00f3 (skri\u00f0an undir Vesturbr\u00fanum er gr\u00f3f). Hj\u00e1lmar!<\/p>\n

N\u00fdir boltar<\/strong>: \u00cd lok j\u00fal\u00ed 2019 var b\u00e6tt vi\u00f0 boltum \u00ed fyrstu sp\u00f6nn, einn \u00ed kr\u00faxi\u00f0 og einn ofar, og akkerum \u00ed \u00feri\u00f0ju sp\u00f6nn og fj\u00f3r\u00f0u sp\u00f6nn. Einnig var b\u00e6tt vi\u00f0 sigbolta uppi \u00e1 turninum me\u00f0 hlekk. \u00cd raun \u00e6ttu \u00fe\u00e1 ekki a\u00f0 vera illtryggjanlegir sta\u00f0ir \u00ed lei\u00f0inni lengur. Boltar eru \u00ed st\u00f6nsum \u00fear sem erfitt er a\u00f0 tryggja en annars d\u00f3taakkeri.<\/p>\n

Athugi\u00f0<\/strong>: Heljaregg er \u00e6vint\u00fdralei\u00f0 og \u00fe\u00f3 h\u00fan hafi hreinsast er enn laust grj\u00f3t. Mikilv\u00e6gt a\u00f0 klifra me\u00f0 hj\u00e1lm og treysta berginu h\u00e6filega. Alvarleg slys hafa or\u00f0i\u00f0 \u00ed lei\u00f0inni.<\/p>\n

Byrjun lei\u00f0ar<\/strong>: Br\u00f6lt upp gili\u00f0 hj\u00e1 Anabasis. Byrjun lei\u00f0arinnar er \u00ed s\u00f6\u00f0li vi\u00f0 klettadrang og fyrstu boltar greinilegir. H\u00e6gt er a\u00f0 b\u00e6ta einni sp\u00f6nn ne\u00f0an vi\u00f0 en mj\u00f6g l\u00f3g\u00edskt a\u00f0 byrja frekar \u00fearna.<\/p>\n

Lei\u00f0arl\u00fdsing<\/strong>:<\/p>\n

P1. 50m 5.6. Beint upp fr\u00e1 akkeri (einn bolti) er kr\u00faxi\u00f0 (5.6 hreyfingar og bolti). Upp h\u00e6gra megin vi\u00f0 hrygg (bolti). Inn\u00ed blauta gr\u00f3f og \u00fea\u00f0an til h\u00e6gri upp ramp (bolti). \u00c1fram upp rampinn (bolti). Beint upp\u00e1 hrygg, passa a\u00f0 halda sig til vinstri vi\u00f0 toppinn \u00e1 hryggnum. 2 bolta akkeri.<\/p>\n

P2. 60m 5.6. Fr\u00e1 akkeri er fari\u00f0 yfir hrygginn og upp me\u00f0fram hryggnum inn\u00ed skar\u00f0. \u00dea\u00f0an beint upp hrygginn 5.6 og upp\u00ed bolta\u00f0 akkeri. Ath laust berg!<\/p>\n

P3. 60m 5.6. Upp hrygginn 5.3. Svo ver\u00f0ur hryggurinn brattur 5.6 upp\u00e1 br\u00fan. Bolta\u00f0 akkeri.<\/p>\n

P4. 60m 5.5. Upp f\u00e9si\u00f0 (2 boltar). Upp laust br\u00f6lt. Bolta\u00f0 akkeri.<\/p>\n

P5. 45m Class 3. Br\u00f6lt upp a\u00f0 topp egginni.<\/p>\n

P6. 60m 5.5. Upp eggina sj\u00e1lfa upp\u00e1 topp. Vandasamar tryggingar, miki\u00f0 laust. Bolti og fleygar \u00e1 toppi turnsins.<\/p>\n

P7. 25m sig ni\u00f0ur \u00ed skar\u00f0i\u00f0 af einum 12mm bolta me\u00f0 ke\u00f0jul\u00e1s. \u00c1\u00f0ur var sigi\u00f0 af tveimur fleygum. Gott er a\u00f0 fara af sigboltanum \u00ed skar\u00f0\/d\u00e6ld ca. 2 metrum sunnan vi\u00f0 og standa \u00e1 l\u00edtilli syllu til a\u00f0 leggja l\u00ednuna \u00ed g\u00f3\u00f0a \u00e1taksstefnu fyrir boltann. Sigi\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur \u00ed skar\u00f0i\u00f0 (Climbers left)<\/p>\n

P8. 50m 5.4. Beint upp \u00far skar\u00f0inu. Au\u00f0velt stalla\u00f0 klifur. D\u00f3taakkeri.<\/p>\n

P9. 50m 5.4 \u00c1fram upp stallana upp\u00e1 br\u00fan. Bolti vi\u00f0 br\u00fanina + vinur.<\/p>\n

Lengd<\/strong>: 4-6 t\u00edmar \u00ed klifri, 3-4 t\u00edmar upp\u00e1 turn. Ca. 6-8 t\u00edmar b\u00edll \u00ed b\u00edl mi\u00f0a\u00f0 vi\u00f0 a\u00f0 allt gangi vel \/ st\u00e6r\u00f0 teymis.<\/p>\n

M\u00e6li miki\u00f0 me\u00f0 \u00fev\u00ed a\u00f0 fara \u00e1 turninn, st\u00f3r hluti af karakter lei\u00f0arinnar. Alls ekki freistast til a\u00f0 s\u00edga ni\u00f0ur Anabasis, teymi hafa lent \u00ed vandr\u00e6\u00f0um \u00fear.<\/p>\n

Ni\u00f0urlei\u00f0<\/strong>: Au\u00f0velt br\u00f6lt inn \u00e1 megin fjalli\u00f0. Haldi\u00f0 a\u00f0eins til nor\u00f0urs, \u00fat fyrir Vesturbr\u00fanir og gengi\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur nokku\u00f0 \u00fe\u00e6gilegar skri\u00f0ur nor\u00f0an vi\u00f0 Vesturbr\u00fanir.<\/p>\n