{"id":102741,"date":"2026-06-24T18:09:32","date_gmt":"2026-06-24T18:09:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/?p=102741"},"modified":"2026-06-24T18:32:38","modified_gmt":"2026-06-24T18:32:38","slug":"penelopa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.isalp.is\/en\/problem\/penelopa","title":{"rendered":"Penel\u00f3pa"},"content":{"rendered":"

Lei\u00f0in liggur \u00fe\u00e9tt upp vi\u00f0 hinn gamla \u00d3dysseif sem var boltu\u00f0 \u00ed lei\u00f0slu me\u00f0 handbor.
\nFyrstu 6 spannirnar voru bolta\u00f0ar um aldam\u00f3t og fengu \u00fe\u00e1 nafni\u00f0 Saurgat satans. \u00deegar
\ns\u00fa lei\u00f0 var boltu\u00f0 var klifra\u00f0 upp 7 spannir \u00d3dysseifs me\u00f0 bens\u00ednborv\u00e9l og bolta og
\nlei\u00f0in boltu\u00f0 \u00e1 einum degi.<\/p>\n

2026 var boltum b\u00e6tt \u00ed fyrstu spannirnar og spannir 7-13 bolta\u00f0ar, me\u00f0 \u00feeirri vi\u00f0b\u00f3t er
\nlei\u00f0in fullm\u00f3tu\u00f0 og hefur fengi\u00f0 nafni\u00f0 Penel\u00f3pa. Lei\u00f0in er l\u00f6ng og alvarleg, ve\u00f0ur
\ngetur oft veri\u00f0 sn\u00fai\u00f0 og \u00ed efri sp\u00f6nnum gjarnan \u00feoka. Mikilv\u00e6gt er a\u00f0 l\u00ed\u00f0a vel \u00ed 5.10
\nklifri \u00fear sem klifra \u00fearf nokku\u00f0 yfir n\u00e6sta bolta. Miki\u00f0 er af g\u00f3\u00f0u klifri \u00ed g\u00f3\u00f0u bergi en
\n\u00ed lei\u00f0inni eru l\u00edka kaflar af lausu bergi og br\u00f6lti upp grasrennur \u00ed sp\u00f6nnum 7-9.
\nMikilv\u00e6gt er a\u00f0 vera \u00ed g\u00f3\u00f0u sambandi vi\u00f0 \u00d3mar landeiganda og ef teymi hyggjast
\nkeyra yfir sandinn a\u00f0 gera \u00fea\u00f0 \u00ed samr\u00e1\u00f0i vi\u00f0 hann.<\/p>\n

\u00datb\u00fana\u00f0ur:<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Tv\u00e6r 60m l\u00ednur
\n12-15 tvistar (eftir \u00fev\u00ed hvernig teymi tengir spannir) og slingar til a\u00f0 lengja \u00ed.
\n1 vinur fyrir fingrasprungu.<\/p>\n

Lei\u00f0arl\u00fdsing<\/strong><\/h3>\n

0 \u2013 A\u00f0komusp\u00f6nn. 2 boltar<\/strong>
\nGengi\u00f0 er upp eftir klettabeltinu vestan vi\u00f0 nesta hluta fjallsins. Flj\u00f3tlega birtist
\ngrasbrekka\/sylla \u00e1 h\u00e6gri h\u00f6nd. Best er a\u00f0 gr\u00e6ja sig \u00fearna og br\u00f6lta svo upp
\nbrekkuna. 2 boltar eru \u00ed brekkunni sem er \u00fe\u00f3 ekki mj\u00f6g br\u00f6tt.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 1 \u2013 Dyrav\u00f6r\u00f0urinn. 35m, 5.9, 9 boltar<\/strong>
\nKlifra\u00f0 upp undir l\u00edti\u00f0 \u00feak, yfir \u00fea\u00f0 og nokkurn veginn beint upp \u00fear til komi\u00f0 er \u00e1
\ng\u00f3\u00f0a syllu. \u00deegar \u00feanga\u00f0 er komi\u00f0 er horft beint upp \u00ed \u00d3dysseif, \u00fear s\u00e9st \u00ed ry\u00f0ga\u00f0an
\nbolta. Ekki klifra h\u00e9r upp heldur hli\u00f0ra til h\u00e6gri. Fixu\u00f0 l\u00edna er yfir \u00ed r\u00e9tt akkeri. H\u00e6gt er
\na\u00f0 klifra alla lei\u00f0 \u00feanga\u00f0 og tryggja \u00fea\u00f0an ef lengt er vel \u00ed tvist \u00far fyrra akkeri.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 2 \u2013 Sportsp\u00f6nnin. 5.10a, 28m, 10 boltar<\/strong>
\nKlifra\u00f0 upp vegg undir \u00e1berandi \u00feaki og upp h\u00e6gramegin vi\u00f0 \u00feaki\u00f0. \u00dear tekur l\u00edklega
\n\u00e1 m\u00f3ti \u00fe\u00e9r m\u00fakki sem hefur \u00fea\u00f0 huggulegt \u00feegar \u00fe\u00fa kl\u00e1rar s\u00ed\u00f0asta kr\u00faxi\u00f0.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 3 – \u00dats\u00fdnishorni\u00f0. 5.9, 22m, 7 boltar.<\/strong>
\nKlifra\u00f0 upp vegginn beint \u00far stansi, erfi\u00f0ast ne\u00f0st og nj\u00f3ti\u00f0 \u00fats\u00fdnisins. Eftir \u00fea\u00f0 er
\nklifri\u00f0 l\u00e9tt upp stalla.<\/p>\n

Gr\u00e1u sl\u00f6bin spannir 4-6.<\/strong>
\nH\u00e9r er h\u00e6gt a\u00f0 tengja spannir, fj\u00f3r\u00f0a sp\u00f6nn er stutt og
\n\u00fe\u00e6gilegt a\u00f0 tengja t.d. 4-5. Allar spannir fr\u00e1b\u00e6rt jafnv\u00e6gisklifur og ekki eitt einasta
\ng\u00f3\u00f0a tak \u00ed \u00f6llum sp\u00f6nnunum.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 4 – 5.10b, 19m, 6 boltar<\/strong>
\nG\u00f3\u00f0ur stans<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 5 \u2013 5.10b, 15m, 4 boltar<\/strong>
\nHangandi stans<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 6 \u2013 5.9, 30m, 11 boltar<\/strong>
\nFr\u00e1b\u00e6r sylla<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 7 \u2013 G\u00f6ngut\u00farinn – 5.1, 53m, 7 boltar<\/strong>
\nSkelli\u00f0 ykkur \u00ed g\u00f6ngusk\u00f3. Passi\u00f0 a\u00f0 klifra ekki beint upp eftir sp\u00f6nn 6, \u00fear eru boltar
\nfr\u00e1 sp\u00f6nn sem boltu\u00f0 var \u00ed lei\u00f0slu en liggur \u00fat \u00ed t\u00f3mi\u00f0. B\u00fai\u00f0 er a\u00f0 taka ne\u00f0sta auga\u00f0
\n\u00far \u00feeirri sp\u00f6nn.<\/p>\n

H\u00e9r er hli\u00f0ra\u00f0 beint til vesturs eftir l\u00edtilli syllu \u00fear til komi\u00f0 er \u00ed grasbrekku sem gengi\u00f0
\ner upp. Akkeri er flj\u00f3tlega eftir a\u00f0 komi\u00f0 er \u00ed brekkuna en \u00fea\u00f0 er einungis hugsa\u00f0 til
\na\u00f0 au\u00f0velda sig \u00far lei\u00f0inni, haldi\u00f0 \u00e1fram eftir fyrsta akkeri\u00f0.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 8 \u2013 Borv\u00e9latang\u00f3- 5.9, 54m 7 boltar<\/strong>
\nSp\u00f6nn sem var a\u00f0 megninu til boltu\u00f0 \u00ed lei\u00f0slu. Hli\u00f0ra\u00f0 er til vinstri eftir akkeri\u00f0 eftir
\nl\u00e9ttum sl\u00f6bum. Gott a\u00f0 lengja \u00ed fyrsta bolta. Komi\u00f0 er upp a\u00f0 grasskoru og haldi\u00f0 upp
\na\u00f0 \u00e1berandi vegg \u00ed horni. Skemmtilegt jafnv\u00e6gisklifur s\u00ed\u00f0ustu 15m.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 9 \u2013 S\u00f6gusl\u00f3\u00f0inn \u2013 5.8 , 25m<\/strong> 7 n\u00fdjir boltar<\/strong> en h\u00e6gt a\u00f0 klippa l\u00edka \u00ed 2 bolta \u00far
\ngamla \u00d3dysseif
\nLei\u00f0in liggur beint upp \u00far stans, fyrst br\u00f6lt, svo upp \u00e1berandi kl\u00f6pp sk\u00e1 til h\u00e6gri \u00ed
\nhvarf fr\u00e1 tryggjara. \u00dear s\u00e9st \u00ed gamlan bolta \u00far \u00d3dysseif sem h\u00e6gt er a\u00f0 klippa \u00ed ef
\nsj\u00e1lfstrausti\u00f0 er l\u00edti\u00f0 en hann myndar drag \u00e1 l\u00ednu. Laust berg gengur \u00ed gegnum allt
\nfjalli\u00f0 \u00e1 \u00feessum kafla og b\u00fai\u00f0 er a\u00f0 koma fyrir l\u00ednub\u00fat yfir um 2m kafla, klifri\u00f0 er \u00fe\u00f3
\nekki erfitt yfir \u00feann hluta. Gengi\u00f0 a\u00f0 lokum eftir syllu s\u00ed\u00f0ustu 5 m til h\u00e6gri \u00ed akkeri.
\nH\u00e9r er gott a\u00f0 hugsa til frumfara \u00d3dysseifs sem klifru\u00f0u \u00feetta me\u00f0 handbor og
\nboltu\u00f0u \u00ed lei\u00f0slu.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 10 \u2013 Dodda slab \u2013 5.8, 50m, 11 boltar.<\/strong>
\nG\u00e6\u00f0aklifur upp endalausa veggi.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 11 \u2013 Grj\u00f3tgl\u00edman \u2013 5.10d e\u00f0a 5.10a A0, 30m , 10 boltar
\nUpp l\u00e9tt sl\u00f6b \u00fear til komi\u00f0 er \u00ed bratt klifur. \u00d3heppilega langt er \u00e1 milli bolta \u00fear og
\ndotti\u00f0 \u00e1 syllu ef kl\u00fa\u00f0ra\u00f0. \u00dear er \u00fe\u00f3 l\u00edtil fingrasprunga sem h\u00e6gt er a\u00f0 tryggja me\u00f0
\nn\u00e1tt\u00farulegum tryggingum. \u00deegar lei\u00f0in var frumfarin voru klifrarar ekki me\u00f0
\nd\u00f3tatryggingar og togu\u00f0u sig yfir \u00fe\u00e6r hreyfingar A0 fr\u00e1 bolta \u00ed \u00feann n\u00e6sta til a\u00f0
\nfor\u00f0ast fall \u00e1 syllu. \u00dea\u00f0 var gert af klifrara sem er 187cm og steig h\u00e1tt \u00ed sling og
\nl\u00edklega erfitt fyrir styttri klifrara. Ef aida\u00f0 er me\u00f0 sprungunni v\u00e6ri gr\u00e1\u00f0an C1. N\u00fa er
\nf\u00f6st hneta \u00ed sprungunni en r\u00e1\u00f0legt a\u00f0 hafa einn l\u00edtinn vin me\u00f0 \u00ed f\u00f6r til a\u00f0 tryggja e\u00f0a
\nau\u00f0velda aidi\u00f0
\nPassa \u00fearf a\u00f0 fylgja boltal\u00ednu \u00ed lok spannar sem lei\u00f0ir mann \u00ed bratt klifur og krefjandi
\nlokahreyfingar \u00fev\u00ed vinstramegin eru lausir st\u00f3rir steinar.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 12 \u2013 S\u00f3larsyllan \u2013 5.10 A0 15m, 7 boltar<\/strong><\/p>\n

Hlykkjast upp haft, tekur langa hli\u00f0run til vinstri, \u00fear eru erfi\u00f0ar hreyfingar upp bratt
\nyfirhang. Vi\u00f0 frumf\u00f6r var toga\u00f0 \u00ed bolta \u00fearna sem stutt er \u00e1 milli \u00ed erfi\u00f0asta hluta. Me\u00f0
\n\u00feeim st\u00edl er lei\u00f0in 5.10 A0. Hafti\u00f0 er \u00fe\u00f3 alls ekki \u00f3kleift og b\u00ed\u00f0ur \u00feess a\u00f0 fyrsta teymi
\nfr\u00edklifri. Muni\u00f0 a\u00f0 lengja \u00ed tvistum \u00fear sem \u00fear \u00e1 vi\u00f0 annars er miki\u00f0 drag.<\/p>\n

Sp\u00f6nn 13 \u2013 \u00datgangssp\u00f6nn 5.3, 20m 3 boltar<\/strong>
\nL\u00e9tt klifur og \u00e1n\u00e6gjulegt. Beint upp \u00far stansi upp \u00e1 hrygginn. \u00deegar \u00feanga\u00f0 er komi\u00f0
\n\u00fe\u00e1 \u00fearf a\u00f0 h\u00e6kka sig \u00f6rl\u00edti\u00f0 og halda um 10m inn \u00e1 fjalli\u00f0 til nor\u00f0urs. Akkeri\u00f0 s\u00e9st \u00fev\u00ed
\nekki vi\u00f0 fyrstu s\u00fdn. \u00d6rv\u00e6nti\u00f0 ekki, \u00fea\u00f0 er \u00fearna. 3 boltar, tveir n\u00fdjir me\u00f0 sighringjum
\nog einn gamall bolti fr\u00e1 \u00d3dysseifst\u00edmum til a\u00f0 minna okkur \u00f6ll \u00e1 jaxlana sem komu
\nfyrst.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Ni\u00f0urlei\u00f0<\/h3>\n
    \n
  1. S\u00edga ni\u00f0ur af hryggnum og ni\u00f0ur \u00ed mosasl\u00f6bin undir fjallinu. Ganga \u00fea\u00f0an um 10m
    \nupp eftir klettaveggnum a\u00f0 hryggnum. \u00dear er einn bolti sem h\u00e6gt er a\u00f0 klippa \u00ed .<\/li>\n
  2. Haldi\u00f0 eftir hryggnum en haldi\u00f0 ykkur um 10m undir br\u00faninni. Gengi\u00f0 er \u00ed um 40-50m
    \nog \u00fear er bolti me\u00f0 2m hv\u00edtri l\u00ednu \u00ed til a\u00f0 reyna gera greinilegri.<\/li>\n
  3. Haldi\u00f0 s\u00f6mu stefnu til nor\u00f0urs yfir sm\u00e1 hrygg\/haft \u00fea\u00f0an er bratt ni\u00f0ur. Komi\u00f0 er
    \nofarlega \u00ed skoru og efst \u00ed henni er bolti \u00e1 l\u00e1gum vegg sem v\u00edsar til su\u00f0urs og er \u00ed
    \n\u00f6kklah\u00e6\u00f0. Erfitt g\u00e6ti veri\u00f0 a\u00f0 draga \u00feetta sig. Vi\u00f0 frumf\u00f6r \u00fe\u00e1 kom s\u00ed\u00f0asti ma\u00f0ur
    \ngangandi \u00ed l\u00ednu \u00feennan kafla en \u00fe\u00e1 er ekki m\u00e6lt me\u00f0 \u00fev\u00ed a\u00f0 detta.<\/li>\n
  4. Bolti ne\u00f0st \u00ed sk\u00e1skorunni \u00e1 h\u00e6gri veggnum (nor\u00f0ur) um 50 m sig<\/li>\n
  5. Sigi\u00f0 \u00far sk\u00e1skorunni. Og gengi\u00f0 eftir klettavegg. Horfi\u00f0 ni\u00f0ur \u00ed brekkuna ne\u00f0an vi\u00f0
    \nklettavegginn. \u00dear er sl\u00e9ttur steinn me\u00f0 einum bolta og gulum sling. 50m<\/li>\n
  6. Bolti vinstamegin vi\u00f0 skoru. 55m<\/li>\n
  7. Fyrsta akkeri \u00ed lei\u00f0inni Eris. Sigi\u00f0 \u00fea\u00f0an ni\u00f0ur \u00ed brekku.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n