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9. janúar, 2004 at 23:04 #451482401754289Meðlimur
Sá að það var talað um íshrun hér áður! Hér er eitt atvik sem gerðist rétt fyrir jól hér úti (nenni ekki að þýða það yfir á íslensku) og líka rotaði ég sjálfur félaga minn í nóvember í smá stund…
Accident on the Weeping Wall today
Posted by Tony D. (184.108.40.206) on December 21, 2003 at 22:21:40:
We were climbing the „center pillar“ and a party was doing the right hand area at the same time. As I just finished bringing my parter to the top of pitch one the other party was at the same level about 10 meters to the right. The leader of the party was 30m above the belay when he dislodged a 20-30lb plate of ice which fell directly onto his belayers head. The impact was horrific and the belayer fell limp on the ice instantly, within seconds she began to convulse/seize vigourously against the ice. After a brief discussion my partner climbed extremely quickly over to her stance to deliver any help he could. Upon arrival at the belay my parter secured himself to the anchor and evaluated the victim, at first it appeared she suffered a fatal blow but she made gutteral noises that indicated an attempt at breathing. The victim was brought level as she had slumped upside down, she then began to breathe on her own after her tounge was extracted from her airway. The leader at this time was obviously in shock as his wife was near death and needed to be coached to build a multipoint anchor and begin rappelling to the belay.
We determined that the victim was in need of immediate medical help and climbers at the base had already ran for help. My partner and I arranged an assisted lower from my belay though the second belay down to the ground. At this time the victim was semi-concious and apparenty stable. A 60m redirected lower to the ground of my parter and the victim was carried out. Climbers at the base had prepared a location for the victim to be stabilized until rescue arrived. Wardens arrived on scene as the lower was completed and assumed control. A heli sling operation was used to bring ther victim to an ambulance on the road where she was evaluated and then flown to Banff for treatment.
Lessons I learned:
ALWAYS keep the belayer safe from falling ice! the leader had positioned the belay under his line of ascent.
Don’t risk your life or the lives of the rescuers in an accident scenario, build extra anchors, add backups and be very aware of loads on anchors.
Rescues take time and eat up gear very quickly, prussiks and locking biners are critical when managing lowers and raises.
Speed is critical, the victim didn’t breathe for 3-4min before we got to her. The impact was at 11am and we had her lowered by 11:35 and in the chopper at 12:30.
There are screws, slings and other gear on the ice still so if recovered try to locate Brad and Jen (victims) from Edmonton, they drive a white chevy sedan.
Fariði bara varlega krakkar13. janúar, 2004 at 10:06 #48275Siggi TommiParticipant
Takk fyrir þessa sögu. Fróðlegt að heyra reynslusögur, jafnvel slysasögur.
Vonandi að daman hafi náð sér að fullu.
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