Hnjúkaþeyr
Blue line
Hnjúkaþeyr was first climbed 13th of October 2020. The idea was to follow the most direct line on the face as possible.
The approach was done on skis from Hnappavallaleið and took around five hours. Similar to the Italian Job the climbers traversed onto the face to avoid dropping too much height and safe some time. If the approach is done from Svínafellsjökull it’s well possible to follow Beina Brautin onto the face.
The climbers simul-climbed the lower section of the face and climbed one third grade pitch on a running belay leading them to the junction of Beina Brautin and Vinamissir. A waterfall around 100 meter long had formed there leading all the way to the top in two pitches.
Hnjúkaþeyr is the Icelandic word for Föhn winds which are particularly common in the area.
Route description:
Long traverse
Running belay, 100 m, WI3
1st pitch, 50 m, WI5-
2nd pitch, 55 m, WI4/4+
Hnjúkaþeyr, TD, WI5-
FA. Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, Matteo Meucci, 13. október 2020
Crag | Öræfajökull |
Sector | Hvannadalshnjúkur |
Type | Alpine |
Markings |