Chinese hoax

Route number B16.

Two pitches, first one around M 5 and the other one harder, around M 6/+.

The first pitch follows an obvious crack on the outside of a nose that sticks out, right next to the route Fimm í fötu (2) and the first two meters are the hardest. After about 20m of climbing you get to a ledge, where it is easy and straight forward to make a belay. The second pitch goes up to the right from the belay and heads for a very obvious rock pillar, that looks alarmingly loose. Surprisingly it did not move and there is a lot of stuff that’s going to fall down before that one. After that section you traverse over a slab, directly under the massive an obvious roof. At the end og the traverse, you get into a very wide crack in a very flared corner. This is the crux of the whole route, tricky axe and feet placements and hard to belay, best option for belay is if you brought along a size 5 camalot but 4 might work as well. After about 3m of this you get easyer climbing, better placements, but the corner is still flared and all movement is tricky, but easier than before. At the top you can make a good belay and also extend it to the top bolt of Fimm í fötu.

The route was first accented on trad onsight but the plan is to place some bolts in it. It had a lot of loose rock, but majority of it was thrown down, so it should be allright and free of the most obvious hazards.

The name is a reference to a debated newly elected president of America, that claims that climate change is just a hoax made by the Chinese. The first accent was done on the 30th of november 2016 in 3°C heat, with almost no ice on either side of the mountain, very unusual for the season. Even though the mixroute is dry, it is best to do it while frozen, it has a lot of moss that makes things easier if it is frozen.

 

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jónas G. Sigurðsson 30.11.2016

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