Öræfasýn

Öræfasýn AI4 200m – N – NW hlið Tindaborgar

Aðkoma um hnappavallaleið. Keyrt upp í 700m og skinnað upp á skíðum upp að vestari hnapp. Svo yfir sléttuna og norður fyrir hnjúkinn. Niður upptakasvæði svínafellsjökul og að tindaborg. Aðkoman tók um 5klst. Skíði skilin eftir neðan við normal leiðina. Farið í brodda og labbað niður fyrir.

Frekar sprungið landslag til að komast að leiðinni og vísara að fara með gát. Leiðin byrjar á stóru bergshrundi sem þarf að fara yfir. Þetta reyndist ansi snúið þar sem lítið hald var í snjónum fyrir axir og þetta var mjög stórt skref. Settur var niður snjóhæll ofan við sprunguna og togað í hann til þess að komast yfir.
Fyrsta spönn var um 55m að áberandi stein í rennuni. 60-70° ís með 3-4m lóðréttum höftum af og til. Continue reading

Crag Öræfajökull
Sector Tindaborg
Type Alpine

Kambshryggur

Leið númer 16a á mynd

AI3 M3/4, 600 m. FF: Andri Bjarnason, Freyr Ingi Björnsson, Sveinn Friðrik Eydal Sveinsson, 2.maí 2021.

Leiðin liggur úr Kaldárdal, austan við Skessuhorn, upp klettabelti í upphafi og fylgir síðan löngum og áberandi hrygg á Miðfjallskamb. Veiklekar í neðsta klettabeltinu voru eltir upp á hrygginn og honum síðan fylgt að langmestu leyti alla leið upp á topp.
Mestu erfiðleikarnir voru í mixhöftum í byrjun leiðar, sérstaklega í fyrstu spönn, og í næstsíðustu spönn við toppinn. Ís var víða að finna en yfirleitt býsna þunnur. Þá var töluvert mikið af snjóklifri
í leiðinni.

Continue reading

Crag Skarðsheiði
Sector Kaldárdalur
Type Alpine

BANFF 2021!

The Icelandic Alpine Club ISALP celebrates the Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival on May 4th and 6th at Bíó Paradís, Hverfisgata. The festival includes films focusing on rock climbing, alpine climbing, skiing, mountain biking, running and more.
Note: Due to COVID-19 regulations, there is only limited number of tickets available. It is therefore important to guarantee your tickets early. Tickets can only be purchased online via tix.is
Isalp club members can seek their discount at stjorn@isalp.is
Films:
Tuesday, 4. may 20:00
Charge 2
Free As Can Be
Ocean to Asgard
The Chairlift
Pretty Strong: Fernanda
K2: The Impossible Descent
Thursday, 6. may 20:00
The Legend of Tommy G
FKT
Climbing Blind
One Star Reviews: National Park
Mount Logan
Slack Sisters
The Secret of Bottom Turn Island
The Ghosts Above

Mother Earth M 7+

Route on the right of Mind Power (D7), that follow an evident crack and then a shield on the top part.

Climbed with pre-placed gear (pinkpoint). There is a bolt at first  that can be use to belay Mind Power and then 2 bolts on the top as anchor.

FA Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 23/04/2021

Crag Múlafjall
Sector Leikfangaland
Type Mixed Climbing

New sector Búahellir in Búahamrar

Buahellir Drytooling Crag in Buahamrar (Esja) with 12 fully equipped routes.
Access:
Same for Tviburagill, Skakki Turnin and 55Gradur. From the road N1 after Esja, turn at the beginning of the road work in to “Skriða” then park next to the houses where the road make a 90deg turn. Walk along the quarry and then cross the fence by the metal stick (traces of path); then 2 options left or right, Blue (more straight, 20′ ) or red (by Tviburagill easier, 30′) in topos.
Routes:
14 routes fully bolted with ring anchor on top. 95% of the holds for the axes are chipped and will be marked.
From the right: D4, D5, D5+, D6+, D7+/8, D8/8+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D9/9+, D8, D6+/7, D8+, D8
There are 3 anchors on the very top of the cliff from where it is possible to abseil to the anchors of the routes to set a top rope: there are a lot of loose rocks, DO NOT rappel if there are other people climbing. Clip all the bolts while rappelling to stay close to the rock.
Wear the helmet!
There are some fixed draws on the most overhanging part, PLEASE leave them in place.
The crag has still some loose rocks on the routes, watch out while climbing.
14 draws and 60m are enough.
Crag is climbable all year round and doesn’t need freezing temperatures.
Rock is good except the yellow lower band, the easy part, then it is very solid and good on the overhanging part.
Let us know if you make some First Ascent, we’ll update the grades.

Gleymdi þursinn WI 4+

Leið merkt sem 26a.

AD+, WI4+. 200M. – Gráðan segir ekki allt. Getur verið mjög tortryggð, geta verið mjög erfiðar og tæknilegar hreyfingar í stuttum ís/mix höftum
Ístryggingar og klettatryggingar nauðsynlegar
4-6 spannir – Var farið í 5 spönnum 2021.04.05
FF: Óþekkt, Páll Sveinsson og Ottó Ingi Þórisson fóru leiðina 2021.04.05 og gáfu henni nafn.

Fyrsta íslínan vestan megin við rifið.
Helstu erfiðleikarnir eru fyrstu 4-5 íshöftin. Flest eru þau stutt (undir 10m) en geta verið brött og tæknileg.
Leiðin sameinast leiðum nr. 24, 25, 26 (rifinu) og 27 og fylgir þeim upp 2-3 klettahöft upp á topp. Sá hluti getur verið tortryggður.

Crag Skarðsheiði
Sector Skessuhorn
Type Ice Climbing

Consolation WI 3

Above the remains of the historic power station in the Merkurá gorge on the True Left. The route went up the cascade to the left of the cave like feature at the bottom. Left again there is a steeper WI4 variation that looks good. Climbed in two shortish pitchs around WI3/3+. The top out is “mixed” and you have to hunt hard for a top anchor.

Rich Bell & Adam Watson, 03/02/2020.

Crag Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Sector Mörk / Merkurá
Type Ice Climbing

Selgil Af Hoffellsdalur WI 3+

The main ravine/gully system draining the North East flank of Hoffellstindur, through the major cliff bands starting just above the valley floor. Approximately 400m in length gaining 250m via a series of around eight “steps” of wildly varying character. From wide cascades, easy runnels, to narrow steep gully ice. The longest pitch was around 40m.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 25/01/2021.

Crag Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Sector Hoffellsdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Rauðárfoss WI 2

Situated in the amphitheater behind Systrastapi Rock when viewed from the highway. Access is easy – park near Kirkjubæjarstofa and follow the marked historic trail from the end of the 205 towards Systrastapi. We climbed the steeper righthand side which is closer to WI2+. This waterfall would make an ideal beginners lead.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 30/01/2021, one pitch of 50m+.

Crag Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Sector Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Type Ice Climbing