Forum Replies Created
There’s a guy in Fontainebleau on the parking at Bas Cuvier who’s really good in resoling. Another one is ‘Blue Light’ in Sisteron (close to Ceuse) and another one I know is Astrid, a shoemaker/climber from Arnhem (Netherlands).
I’ll check the right addresses if you want…
too bad!!! I’m already in Iceland and just have internet again
I’ve been in France before I flew to Iceland and didn’t have a proper connection there.
So…I don’t have the shoes with me, and the krabs neither.
But, I can always sent you some stuff, as I rather sell all to Icelanders then to rich spoiled Dutch who’d never use it anyway
I’ll be climbing in Klifurhusid tonight, see you there?
Freakin’ sweet to see it’s already possible to climb some wet ice (for a bit)
I’ll be in Klifurhusid this eve and was wondering if I can use my axes there…
Anybody up for some drytooling from around 7ish today?
eh, no idea what fruitboots cost these days. But for €135 they’re yours (incl. Petzl Dart crampons)
All stuff in the Picasa gallery is for sale including the VW engine
Shall I take the boots with, so you can take a look?
Hi dudes (and dudesses)
I won’t be at the Búnaðarbazar this Friday, but…I have some stuff for sale…
I’d rather sell it to you guys then to the Dutch as it’s pretty hard to get this on Iceland: fruitboots.
I bought them, but they’re too big So I sell them again.
It’s the Salomon shoes in the front. The Scarpa ones are not mine.
Give me a good price and they’re yours
Oh, and they’re size 41.
Any more stuff, ehhh, iceaxes DMM Rebel, and more stuff here:http://picasaweb.google.it/DennisvanHoek/ForeSale#
I’ll get to Iceland from Holland next week (October 24th) and I am in France right now.
You can mail me on firstname.lastname@example.org
…so, when I get to Iceland in just a bit more then 1,5 weeks…I should bring my axes?
Actually…does anybody have some spare time to go for a climb somewhere on October 28, 29, and/or 30?
It’s already for sale, and supposed to be for sale in Iceland.
The new Nomics are nice, the Ergo’s even better and the Quark is perfect for fast alpine lines.
How’s the icelandic ice doing? Forming already, or do you guys still have to wait for a month (or two) more?
no…wasn’t really planning of going South I don’t really want to destroy my car in the dust over there.
But North might be good. And then maybe drive on to Skaftafell (so drive a circle)
I know, the holiday, but that’s next week, I just want to get somewhere now!
My arm is doing ok, I’m not as stromng as I was, but I can climb again, so the strenght will come I hope
Missions for this year:
– climb 8a or in Iceland or wherever on this planet.
– climb Chocolat Chaud and Flying Circus (M10)
– climb the harder route on Thumall (trad)
– climb Sundlaugarparty trad
– Walk to Iceland’s highest point
– Get/stay sponsored by Petzl (or BDel), Cintamani, Boreal and Sterling and any other company that has some money to spend these days
– Move to Kandersteg next Autumn/Winter and climb all routes there (multipitch. trad, mixed and ice)
– Join the WC iceclimbing and get into the finals on lead and speed
Who’s up for training with me?
I mean running, biking, core stability training, fingerboard-hanging, climb trad in Hnappavellir, climb ice in summer time, train for speedclimbing (ice), have figure-of-four-figure-of-nine-sessions, and just climb loads of meters of rock.
Actually, this is a serious question…I need people to train with me
So…what’s your mission???
Greetings from Kandersteg (CH)
I landed in 8th place with speed climbing (but I don’t really find that climbing…) on lead I landed in 12th place (out of 21 climbers) just after the winner of last years comp (Angelika Rainer) and Petra Müller.
Now up to the next competition in Italy, Rabenstein (close to the Austrian border at the Ótztal) and maybe, if we have enough money, we’ll (we= Dennis a Dutch friend of mine and me) go to Romania as well.
Oh, yes, and I have shoes for sale. Winter D-shoes, Raichle (now for sale under the Mammut brand), never used. Look like the LaSportiva shoes Siggi has. The size is 45/46.
My friend is selling the shoes and loves to sell them to some Icelandic climbers
I’ll try to get a picture of them online soon.
More about my climbing things on lavinia-marianne.blogspot.com
I can search if I find some in Italy/Austria/Swiss, maybe somebody still has some left.
I’ll leave for Italy tomorrow.
Been training pretty hard and getting more experienced.
You can read it on my blog: lavinia-marianne.blogspot.com
And hey, you should ask Valdi for a climb, he’s really good in drytooling!
Tip: become member of a foreign alpine club like the German DAV. They have good insurance and way cheaper then the Icelandic SJOVA version.
(Or have Iceland become a member of the UIAA
so…Ivar was so sweet to call me.
The only thing was, that I didn’t knew he had a whole car full of hungry men (I mean hungry for a piece of cake) So my chocolate cake was a bit small…Next time I’ll make home-made apple-cake.
So who’s up for the next session? I have some cool new axes with Hedinn made for me, and I can’t wait to try them!
B.t.w. who’s the ‘old dude’ who ever competed in the Worldcup Iceclimbing for Iceland and became second? (Can’t find his name)
(At Facebook I would click on “like”)
Up for the next session?
Ok, still no reply… is ISALP not the right club, to search for people who do iceclimbing?
Well, lets put it like this: I’ll pay your petrol costs and bake you a cake (or an icecream in Vesturbaer)
I’ve put this message here because I don’t have all your phone numbers, if else I would have called.
Or call me: 8237365
What more do I need to do to get you guys out of town?
but there is enough ice on the glacier though?
Just to practice…who’s up?
(You just try to find yourself an excuse ha
We had 15 climbing days out of 23 days abroad.
Startin off with to travelling days, to get to Siurana.
And at the end 1 traveling day.
We climbed until we felt we needed a rest-day. Sometimes we planned rest-days on bad-weather days and sometimes we rested before we wanted to send a project.
So 20 active days, of which just 5 rest-days.
In other words, no planning, just listened to our body
uh, I´m not sure if I can explain it all in English…I learned it all in German and then in Dutch, so English… But just come for a visit and I explain it all.
But…ok, what I know is the reason you use a double rope or halbzeil halftouw or half rope (=all the same).
Are: -you can climb easier with a group of 3 (less important)
– you have less friction on bad belay points, like in ice or alpine.
– you still have a rope when you ruin one of the two due to sharp rocks or your axes/crampons
– it is more dynamic, so softer/safer falling
– you have a backup of the other rope if your belay point fails (like your screw/nut/cam pops out)
This all will change if you clip both in one belay point. Unless the Fangstos (or how do you call this in English) is very low. That says on the card with your rope. If this is below 6kN I believe, you can use your 1/2 rope also as Twin rope (the sign of the two circles)
But if you clip both ropes in one and you have a Fangstos of 8kN or more (never buy a rope with a Fangstos of more then 12kN, they´re just ueseless after a couple of falls). You have to realize this:
– the friction on both ropes in one quickdraw will be a lot. It might ruin your rope, and it blocks the dynamic falling
– the stiffness makes the fall harder on your body and all other equipment like the screw and the quickdraw.
So there are 1. max. pressure on your body (10kN)
2. max pressure on the belay point (screw/bolt) 3. mex pressure on the draw. 4. max pressure on the rope string.
If the rope, the draw, the bolt and you can hold the fall (like short falls on overhanging or vertical rock and your fangstos of your rope is low, then just clip in both.
If you want to be more sure and safe, like in iceclimbing or alpine routes, and the falls are one dubiues screws or nuts, your screw can pop out, or whatever, please just clip in or string of rope. (unless your fangstos is very low). But then it says it on the rope pack, or websites as earlier metioned (also see petzl.com or mammut.ch or whatever your rope brand is.)
I maybe don’t say it completely clear in English. I might be better with examples in German or Dutch…but then you have to learn German/Dutch first
Ow yes, on the rope pack you also see the rope takes norm falls with 55kg (mostly, sometimes 65kg or more) a norm fall is a factor 2 fall and the 55 is not 80kg or 110 because of a ancient fault in how to count the falls. For an explanation about that…another time.
uh, here thus.
Oh, all piccas are already online…Now here are mine too.
Nice weekend. Next weekend again?
yes it was nice and fun.
Just a bit a lot of snow.
Too bad that it took us so long to find the route. Next time we just know where it is and run up like it’s piss-easy
Here the piccas:
Now waiting for the good weather again. Rain for the whole week now…And that whilst I’ll finally will have my own gear this week
Thanks for the axes Robbi. Leashless is indeed better!
And Ási thanks for the campons. You looked hot on your 90s crampons!
ok, here some photos for the ones who do other things then working today
I forgot my harness (!!!) so had a really sexy big ass in my fashionable schling-harness. Though Gunnar and me still climbed two ´half´ routes. Gunnar leaded the first, I did the second. We counted that over an average Siggi and Robbi are 8 times faster climbing then we were…
It was scary, cool, nice and I´m already daydreaming of the next time going out somewhere where there is a lot of cool ice.
Robbi knows more about the routes, I have no idea of how difficult these things were. Was just fun
The piccas are not of the best quality ever, there was just too much snow to keep the lens clean. Next time better.
Piccas from our climbing are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/der.steen/IceclimbingInIceland#
can´t wait to go again